Turn Signal Modding for Dummies??? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 05-19-2009, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Turn Signal Modding for Dummies???

I realize that there are a few really good threads on how to install turn signals. Super Sneaky Steve's 'How To' was excellent, and I've read it multiple times. MisterMike's 919 page has good info as well.

Here's the story: I'm only interested in replacing my front signals since my rear ones came replaced with a Competition Werks Fender Eliminator kit. I believe the signals that are used in that package are Lockhart Phillips Series III.

This leaves me with really only have 2 questions.

1) Is the Tridon flasher thingy a 'must have' in order to slow the blinking speed of an LED signal to regular speed? So, if I order the Rizoma Zero's, will I need a Tridon flasher for them? Is this difficult to install? (I am worthless when it comes to electrical stuff)

2) If I decide to get some 'bulb' replacement turn signals rather than LED's, is the flasher still necessary or will it blink at normal speed?

Thank you for your patience...

I'm a rookie!

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post #2 of 6 Old 05-19-2009, 10:55 AM
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Pretty sure you'll get the same (factory) flash rate with bulbs.
LEDs have less resistance, which is the cause of their faster blink rate. (someone please speak up if I'm wrong)

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post #3 of 6 Old 05-19-2009, 11:41 AM
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If you buy a bulb which is not LED's to replace it, it should flash at the same rate as the stock ones. If you buy LED's you will need a flasher, or else you could wire in a resistor. A resistor will load down your stock flasher and cause it to blink slower, but creates a lot of heat in the process. Because of the heat, I would personally recommend a New flasher. Most flashers are plug and play and do not require any wiring, just unplug your old flasher from under the seat, and plug in the new one. Some models of flashers do require wiring though.

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post #4 of 6 Old 05-19-2009, 02:42 PM
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The flasher can be replaced in about 30 seconds, without tools. If you want to do it right, it will take you about 5 minutes, wire strippers, and a tool to crimp a couple of spade connectors onto the wires. Take off your seat, pull the old relay off, attach the new relay, you're done.

Seriously, if you are scared of electrical projects, this is a good place to start.

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post #5 of 6 Old 05-20-2009, 08:42 AM
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Bulbs will flash at the same rate as the stocks. Just replaced my front and rears with motrax micro arrow signals from cycle gear. They have a good variety and it seems like a good product. Cheap too, at only 15.99 for two bulb signals. For the rears they have a product called indy leads, 4.99, which will connect the signals to the stock wiring hardness.

The 3 wire fronts you will have to follow Super Sneaky Steves how to. Instead of soldering I used these connectors which worked great and took about 10 seconds. Just slip them on the cable and use a heat gun. The solder in the center of connector will melt around the and secure the connection. Saves a lot time and effort.

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post #6 of 6 Old 05-20-2009, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajg View Post
Bulbs will flash at the same rate as the stocks. Just replaced my front and rears with motrax micro arrow signals from cycle gear. They have a good variety and it seems like a good product. Cheap too, at only 15.99 for two bulb signals. For the rears they have a product called indy leads, 4.99, which will connect the signals to the stock wiring hardness.

The 3 wire fronts you will have to follow Super Sneaky Steves how to. Instead of soldering I used these connectors which worked great and took about 10 seconds. Just slip them on the cable and use a heat gun. The solder in the center of connector will melt around the and secure the connection. Saves a lot time and effort.
Awesome. Thanks Anthony.

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