Even at the track, and I run a pretty stout pace most of the time, I rarely if ever change my damping settings once I have them figured out unless I have an extremely specific issue with tire wear from the track surface or one that manifests itself as the tire wears down and starts to lose grip where I can iron it out a bit with a small adjustment or two, but again those are rare changes. Preload I only adjust when I have to ride in wet conditions and that is just to soften things up a bit.
On the street I NEVER change my damping after the initial set-up and change the preload only to accommodate a passenger and/or luggage.
I do run into guys both at the track and on the street that are constantly twiddling the knobs and adjusters every single time the bikes comes to a rest and I can never figure out if they are anal retentive or just retarded. I mean I see professional racers who are 7 or 8 seconds a lap faster than I am go out first thing in the morning and turn those same consistent lap times all day long without ever touching their suspension settings and they just make it happen. Meanwhile mr ricky-racer pitted next to me who is 20 seconds off the race pace at any given track is constantly screwing around with his suspension and taking tire pressure readings or tire temp readings with a thermo-gun and I just have to laugh.
I'm not saying there is not a place for those kinds of antics because there is, but when you make it to that point you will have people that do that stuff for you instead of you having to do it yourself.
For what we do and the reason I both personally use and sell Ohlins is because it is simple. Bolt it on, set the sag and go ride. Very rarely do I have to go trackside and provide support for my customers to get their bike dialed in properly and when I do it is usually a riding technique issue causing the problem rather than the suspension or if is the suspension it typically comes down to a spring rate issue not a valving issue. Every rider has their own set of dynamics in terms of how quick they are, what tires they use, their trailbraking technique, how far they lean off the bike, how quick they pick up the throttle, how they drift or force the bike around the track etc. Those variables sometimes make it more than just a mathematical equation to figuring out proper spring rates especially on the front forks. The forks can be a little more tricky and some intimate knowledge of the bike is sometimes required when we start using less oil with more coil spring to fine tune the ride quality and geometry under trailbraking conditions, but I digress.
The biggest issue in my opinion is making sure the spring rate is correct for the needs of the rider. A lot of riders find that 30-35mm of sag on a rear shock with little preload is ideal for street use, but inadequate for the track where 25-30mm is needed and that difference of 10mm makes a big change to the overall feel & feedback from the bike on end of the spectrum versus a lot more ride compliance on the other. Sometimes this means putting a spring rate on the bike that is outside the normal range so that the rider can be on one end of the range instead of the other. More spring with less preload versus less spring with more preload. Adding to that issue is that street riders don't always wear all their gear all the time so their weight with and without gear can fluctuate to a large degree altering the sag settings on the shock as can added luggage etc. Forks can range in sag numbers from 35-45mm in the same way.
Something I don't talk about much outside of my classroom is proper riding technique. OEM suspension is designed to work to a minimum satisfactory level with any range of rider weight that the motorcycle is rated for regardless of whether you weigh 120lbs or 360lbs or carry a passenger etc. When a rider puts suspension custom fitted to their weight on the bike then they are fine tuning that suspension for them and narrowing the window it is designed to work in. In exchange for this you get a much higher level of performance within that window. Luckily the 919 has no progressive linkage on the swingarm and uses a really stout spring which encompasses a much broader range of rider weight with just one spring making it much easier to find those sweet numbers that a lot of other sportier bikes. One thing that must be mentioned though is if a riders technique is poor and they spend most of their time coasting into the turns instead of being on the brakes or immediately back on the gas etc which unloads the suspension and unsettles the chassis then the upgraded suspension is not really going to work in their favor under those conditions any better than OEM suspension. Don't misconstrue better suspension benefits the novice rider or the professional rider just the same, but you kinda gotta do your job to insure the suspension gets to do its job.