Frame Sliders! - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-25-2017, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Frame Sliders!

Tried searching around and Motivation keeps coming up. I emailed them and they said they're discontinued.

Next best option?

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-25-2017, 04:18 PM
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Try to see if Satos still does them, or if someone has them on the shelf as discontinued inventory.

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post #3 of 11 Old 09-25-2017, 05:06 PM
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-26-2017, 07:54 AM
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Buy T-Rex sliders, mount them to the frame. This is an old post and I've since taken off the engine mounted sliders. Also, make sure to use a hardened threaded rod or tap the bolts into the frame:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ml#post1062018
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-26-2017, 02:07 PM
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yes, and don't forget to email them and say that you want both pucks to be the long ones, seeing as by default one is long and the other is short, but having both of them long protects the actual body of the bike (tank + side engine). If you get a shorty that side will still hit the ground with the tank...



Quote:
Originally Posted by DSB_ESQ View Post
Buy T-Rex sliders, mount them to the frame. This is an old post and I've since taken off the engine mounted sliders. Also, make sure to use a hardened threaded rod or tap the bolts into the frame:

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ml#post1062018

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post #6 of 11 Old 09-24-2018, 01:21 PM
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Hey all, supposedly T-Rex now sells no-cut frame sliders. I ordered the kit and will report back. Kinda looks like there still might be some drilling, which is fine with me.

Edit to add: Read the connected threads, and am emailing them to make sure I get two long pucks.

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post #7 of 11 Old 09-25-2018, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draco880 View Post
Hey all, supposedly T-Rex now sells no-cut frame sliders. I ordered the kit and will report back. Kinda looks like there still might be some drilling, which is fine with me.

Edit to add: Read the connected threads, and am emailing them to make sure I get two long pucks.
What exactly would you be cutting on a 919 that you would need no cut frame sliders? Also, as a general rule, no cut frame sliders are a bad idea because they just add a lever arm to multiply the force in a crash and bend/break/stretch things worse.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-25-2018, 09:00 AM
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Just to summarize, get two long pucks and attach them to the frame. Using this schematic to clear up any confusion, remove cap 13 and use that hole to attach them to the frame. They're visible just rearward of the radiator.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts...51030sch419566

Some people tap that portion of the frame to then affix the bolts that came with the sliders. Alternatively, you can simply drill the outer portions of the frame to accept a larger diameter threaded rod and use that instead to affix the sliders. The interior tube has a larger ID, so you just need to make the outer holes larger. If you go this route, make sure to buy a hardened steel rod rather than simple Home Depot stock. Either way, you need some extra steps and are going to tap the frame or drill and buy a hardened steel rod. Hope this helps.
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-25-2018, 10:46 AM
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TREX sends them with the long rod now very easy to do maybe takes 10 mins to drill both sides just drill and spray some lube slowly at the same time and should be no problem and if you ever scrape 1 up they will just send u 1 if thats all you need good people

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post #10 of 11 Old 09-25-2018, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmoon692008 View Post
What exactly would you be cutting on a 919 that you would need no cut frame sliders? Also, as a general rule, no cut frame sliders are a bad idea because they just add a lever arm to multiply the force in a crash and bend/break/stretch things worse.
In this case I just wanted the rod, instead of hunting down one around here. Hopefully it works out.

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post #11 of 11 Old 10-01-2018, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draco880 View Post
In this case I just wanted the rod, instead of hunting down one around here. Hopefully it works out.
FWIW, got the sliders and the rod, looks to be about 7/16, seems like a solid set of sliders so far. I'll post some pics when I get it all installed. My cobalt drill bits skipped over 7/16, unfortunately.

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