Frame slider turn signal? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 110 Old 12-16-2012, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Frame slider turn signal?

So I've been thinking recently that my integrated tail light custom LED is not enough to indicate safely on my bike even though it is really clean and simple.

I am planning on adding turn signals to the competition Werkes fender eliminator , which will make it safer when changing lanes , but what I also thought would be really cool would be to have turn signals coming out of my frame sliders. Not sticking all the way out, but flush with the edge of the end of the slider, most visible to people looking at either side of the bike.



ForumRunner_20121216_141453.jpg



I was thinking of using something like these but this one turns out to be a little too wide in the diameter.

http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/s...cat=404&page=1

He hole in the frame sliders is 1 inch, and its pretty snug. If i could find some 1 inch variants of something like these i could wedge them in there, and then drill a very unobtrusive hole on the underside of the sliders to get the wiring out(maybe this is stupid, if it renders the structurally unsound, but i feel like it could handle it.)

What do ya'll think of this idea? I feel like i wont find anything made already to fit this application, and ill just have to make it myself.

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post #2 of 110 Old 12-16-2012, 05:26 PM
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I think that the ultimate problem is that if you mount them so that the majority of the signal is facing outwards then they are not going to be very visible from front or rear viewing angles. Consider also that your legs are going to be blocking visibility to them as well so visibility will probably be zero from the rear...

I could be mistaken and your seated riding stance could make a difference but it's something to think about.

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post #3 of 110 Old 12-16-2012, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post
I think that the ultimate problem is that if you mount them so that the majority of the signal is facing outwards then they are not going to be very visible from front or rear viewing angles. Consider also that your legs are going to be blocking visibility to them as well so visibility will probably be zero from the rear...

I could be mistaken and your seated riding stance could make a difference but it's something to think about.
I will elaborate n respond more on this shortly.

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post #4 of 110 Old 12-16-2012, 05:43 PM
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post #5 of 110 Old 12-17-2012, 05:10 PM
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MM and myself actually drilled holes in our frame sliders to accommodate a helmet lock. A smaller hole for wires wouldn't cause any issues.

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post #6 of 110 Old 12-17-2012, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
MM and myself actually drilled holes in our frame sliders to accommodate a helmet lock. A smaller hole for wires wouldn't cause any issues.
Ya i saw that thread way back and thought it was pretty slick.

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post #7 of 110 Old 12-17-2012, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariannasdaddy View Post
Awesome finds btw, if i could make some sort of globe like convex lens to go o er the light, in the hole, I'd be concert ready, and there would be some visibility from front and maybe rear.

I don't get how much those circular ones cost though....9$ to 250?

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post #8 of 110 Old 12-18-2012, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, ariannasdaddy, i don't know if you know LEDs and whatnot, but what would be a good choice for Watts? I could fit the one you linked in your post in there, but only if I bent the heatsink that goes with it. I have been looking at their other LED's, trying to find one that will fit well, but brightness and draw is a factor yes?

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post #9 of 110 Old 12-20-2012, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to see if i cant get some more input on this idea. If i go with the 10w leds ariannasdaddy recommends, will i be able to just wire them up simply or will i need something like this for each one as well?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...900&cmd=VIDESC

Would anyone be willing to explain to me how to wire them up?

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post #10 of 110 Old 12-20-2012, 09:34 PM
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I don't think you'd need to wire anything extra up. Just the indicators. However, if you want your flash rate to not go haywire when your flasher relay thinks your bulbs are burned out, get one of these.

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post #11 of 110 Old 12-20-2012, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it View Post
I don't think you'd need to wire anything extra up. Just the indicators. However, if you want your flash rate to not go haywire when your flasher relay thinks your bulbs are burned out, get one of these.
How do i add these two led indicators onto the pre-existing front and rear setup though?

Do i just + and - leech grab on the left blinker wire and right blinker wire? Lol

I have no idea.

What gauge wire should i use?

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post #12 of 110 Old 12-20-2012, 10:44 PM
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Ive wired more than a few bikes, some from scratch and turn signals are pretty straight forward bud. 16 or 20 guage wire is fine man whatever is easier for you to grab. You can even go thinner but I like to know there's some "beef" to the wire.

Yes they "wire up" just the same as existing(+ and -). Now you have 2 choices one is to get a load equilizer on each blinker or as g00gl3it says get your self an electronic relay. It's WAY easier to just plug a new relay in rather than add those silly load things each line. The link he shows looks to be plug and play (I've never seen the 919 blinker before) even if it's not it can't be that hard to get it to work

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post #13 of 110 Old 12-20-2012, 11:30 PM
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Sorry I missed your question. As for bending the tabs, I don't know the quality of these LEDs. I just randomly pulled them from eBay. I would expect them to work as it shows 10 - 12 vdc. I have no idea how much heat it can sustain. Use the flasher relay that has been quoted. This will help in limiting the voltage as well. I would wire the them to the front signals as they remain on while driving, making them nice marker lights. Don't worry about people seeing them from the front or rear, that's what the other signals are for. Reference the viewing angle of the LEDs.
FYI. This is just the first idea that popped into my head, so it may not be the best idea... Sometimes you have to fail a few times before you get it just right.

Good luck. I look forward to seeing a finished product.

Arte et Marte
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post #14 of 110 Old 12-21-2012, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariannasdaddy View Post
Sorry I missed your question. As for bending the tabs, I don't know the quality of these LEDs. I just randomly pulled them from eBay. I would expect them to work as it shows 10 - 12 vdc. I have no idea how much heat it can sustain. Use the flasher relay that has been quoted. This will help in limiting the voltage as well. I would wire the them to the front signals as they remain on while driving, making them nice marker lights. Don't worry about people seeing them from the front or rear, that's what the other signals are for. Reference the viewing angle of the LEDs.
FYI. This is just the first idea that popped into my head, so it may not be the best idea... Sometimes you have to fail a few times before you get it just right.

Good luck. I look forward to seeing a finished product.
Thanks for getting back to me. I am in correspondence with an optics company, i am going to be putting a lens, that will sorta look like someone stuffed a marble inside the frame slider, to go on top of the led to enhance the spread of the light...they also manufacture leds so they are gonna help and see if they cant marry one of their leds with a good lens.

Here's the crappy paint pic i sent them.


http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psc9a32252.png

But my main challenge will be the wiring. I threw a bunch of parts at the stealership a while back, and my front rizoma zeros were one of em. They don't function as running lights anymore... and i don't know what they did or did not do. But aside from me dropping the bike off in a couple weeks for them to redo the powder coating (long story there too.) I don't wanna go back to them for ANYHTHING.

If i can limp slowly along doing things myself, and learning along the way about the 919 with help from y'all, ill be wiser and happier.

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post #15 of 110 Old 01-10-2013, 07:32 PM
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If your really intent on doing this check out your local radioshack. They know all the different wattages and such you may need, how they affect draw, and you can get any number of sizes instore. Take your slider with you and you can match them up any way you like. They also have all the led holding mounts to pick from. Its a lot easier to do custom work when you have a selection of parts to play with, turn, twist and see them in your hands. Good luck to you.

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post #16 of 110 Old 01-10-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailblazer68 View Post
If your really intent on doing this check out your local radioshack. They know all the different wattages and such you may need, how they affect draw, and you can get any number of sizes instore. Take your slider with you and you can match them up any way you like. They also have all the led holding mounts to pick from. Its a lot easier to do custom work when you have a selection of parts to play with, turn, twist and see them in your hands. Good luck to you.
Arigato

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post #17 of 110 Old 02-01-2013, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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So,

I'm getting closer to finishing this little project, but I need a little help with specifics as far as how to properly wire this up with my current setup...

I have Rizoma Zero 11's installed, but I did not install them, and they do not function as running lights, either due to their design (2 wires i believe instead of 3), or the way they were wired, but I think i prefer them better not as running lights.



I would like to wire my additional signals to function as running lights though, and to have them blink together with my front and rears.

I believe I will have to replace this switch because i think it is broken. When i go for left, it works fine, but right is a little wonky, i believe it has something to do with the switch's internal mechanism/contacts not working properly, i figure why not replace it.



I plan on doing this all in one go.

Can someone help me out and tell me specifically how to wire up my new DIY additional pair of signals?

I plan on using the ELFR-1 from custom led, and as i understand it, i only need one, correct?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: HOW THE HECK TO I PUT MY IMAGES THAT I ATTACH VIA MANAGE ATTACHMENTS IN THE LOCATION IN THE POST THAT I WANT? GRRRR
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post #18 of 110 Old 02-01-2013, 06:39 PM
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post #19 of 110 Old 02-01-2013, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks PV for reminding me about that thread, I had read through it before and remember feeling stupid afterward, the only part I understood really was:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishfilet300 View Post
Just for my clarification since I'm about to try this and have my diode ready to go and I'm not too good at reading wiring diagrams. The orange/white connects to the one end of the diode and the solid orange connects to the other end right? Then the solid orange line attaches to the positive of the after market signal and the green connects to the negative. Repeat on other side using the lt blue. Correct????
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OR is it the orange/white combines with the solid orange on one end of the diode and only the solid orange is on the other side that goes to the after market positive?
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Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
Now you got it. I would check with the supplier to make sure the high intensity LED and its power supply are rated for continuous operation -- they may not be.

Rob
I read through that thread again and I am really confused.

I already have the flasher relay installed...(somewhere, i say this because i don't know where!) since i have rizoma zero 11's on the front and the custom led intergrated tail...

Maybe I should just skip trying to have them as running lights, and try them out as strait turn signals first.

Can someone give me idiot proof instructions on how to wire them?

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post #20 of 110 Old 02-01-2013, 07:45 PM
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Here is something I guarantee to work if you want running light blinkers ( ones that are on while engine is running you will need a dual element bulb) this will have three wires you will wire the low side to the headlight this will give you your running light and then wire the high side to either the rear or the front turn signal not the switch just wire it in parallel to the hot wire on the turn signal wire. For a non running light system just omit the hot low side wire to the headlights.

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post #21 of 110 Old 02-01-2013, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytheii View Post
I already have the flasher relay installed...(somewhere, i say this because i don't know where!) since i have rizoma zero 11's on the front and the custom led intergrated tail...

Maybe I should just skip trying to have them as running lights, and try them out as strait turn signals first.

Can someone give me idiot proof instructions on how to wire them?
Basically, if you have the flasher relay already installed, it should be under the seat where the stock relay was.

As to the wires, you basically get the diode and you make your 2 wire into 3 wires for the front turn signals. in other words, take the positive wire running off of the led (turn signal input) and split it via diode. This will give you 3 ends to connect to the 3 connections on the bike end and you get running lights. Just follow the diagram that rob posted: https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...html#post98567

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post #22 of 110 Old 02-03-2013, 12:59 AM
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Sytheii, when you attach all your images, click on the dropdown where the paper clip is again, and choose 'Insert image', or select the image you want to insert. It will then insert it inline in your post.

Hope that makes sense.

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post #23 of 110 Old 02-17-2013, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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So...uh....can someone help me with this? I feel silly, but i figure this is the only way I am going to figure this out, can somebody edit this png in paint to explain how to wire up my 2 new additional turn signals, lol? I will still have two front and rear non-running light turn signals, ok thanks. so thats 2 in front, my intergrated custom led, and then my two extra signals...
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post #24 of 110 Old 02-17-2013, 11:34 PM
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Find your turnsignal wire (power side) for each side of the bike. You should be able to cut the power wire and run your new leds straight in line of that wire and be good to go.

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post #25 of 110 Old 02-17-2013, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailblazer68 View Post
Find your turnsignal wire (power side) for each side of the bike. You should be able to cut the power wire and run your new leds straight in line of that wire and be good to go.
Like this? I thought this was what i should do, but i tend to obfuscate via mental functioning.
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post #26 of 110 Old 02-17-2013, 11:50 PM
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Yup. Sorry I'm on my phone or I would've drawn it up for you. All your doing is splicing the leds inline with the power wire, that'll make the flasher control all your signals at the same time. Now doing it like this they will only be signals unless your bike has the original signals set up as running lights and signals. Basicly it'll cause the new leds to do exactly what your current signals do

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post #27 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trailblazer68 View Post
Yup. Sorry I'm on my phone or I would've drawn it up for you. All your doing is splicing the leds inline with the power wire, that'll make the flasher control all your signals at the same time. Now doing it like this they will only be signals unless your bike has the original signals set up as running lights and signals. Basicly it'll cause the new leds to do exactly what your current signals do
Thanks man, ya I am just going to keep the non running light setup for now just to experiment with the leds I have at the moment.

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post #28 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 06:51 AM
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Well I made one too and worked so hard on it but you beat me to it. Lol

image-2261493032.jpg

At sytheii that's a series circuit that would give him dim lights

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post #29 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Well I made one too and worked so hard on it but you beat me to it. Lol

At sytheii that's a series circuit that would give him dim lights
So I your pic for my additional turn signal, where does my black wire go?

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post #30 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
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So I your pic for my additional turn signal, where does my black wire go?
You can either ground it to the frame, or splice it into an existing ground wire.

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post #31 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You can either ground it to the frame, or splice it into an existing ground wire.
Truly?

Would the LEDs be that much dimmer if it were "in series?

3rd edit, oh ya three lines like arrow is grnd. Haha

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post #32 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 09:52 AM
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Dim lights even with an leds low amp draw?

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post #33 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 09:55 AM
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I could see a dimness if you were using a normal filiment bulb with a large draw but an led should have a low enough draw to keep that from happening. Either way you need to splice into the power so the simple thing would be to put in series temporarily and try it to see if it goes dim on you.

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post #34 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 10:18 AM
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Both will work but with the low amp draw of an led why not just wire in parallel and get the most you can out of it. I have no idea just how dim it would get. But it would be dimmer

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post #35 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 10:24 AM
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I disagree but there's really only one way for him to see

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post #36 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 10:33 AM
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I'm not asking I'm telling you it will be dimmer any sort of load wired in series will receive less power were it to be wired in parallel. due to the fact that with a series circuit the voltage will even itself out amongst all loads. Power = current X voltage. If you wire it in parallel the voltage is not split through the loads and and MAXIMUM POWER (lulz) can be used. No disrespect. Now whether or not it is noticeable I don't know.

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post #37 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 10:58 AM
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Yes but what you are saying depending on his bikes setup could cause it to backfeed or even cause one of the original signals not to work as electricity takes the path of least resistance if you add aa ground closer up it could bypass the the last signal. Now I'm not disrespecting you but the easiest and simplest way is to run it in series. With an leds low draw any dimness should minimal to the point of not even noticeable. You said yourself that you didn't know if it would be noticeable. I'm telling you it wont be. I have a similar setup on my bike, actually after seeing this thread I decided to add a similar setup on mine. Its simple its easy and no pissing around adding extra wiring you do not need.

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post #38 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 11:27 AM
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Also as I am basing this information off of knowledge from a honda trained motorcycle tech and my own experience as a mechanic I can tell you the series setup will work and will do so with minimal modification and messing around adding extra wiring you don't need. Now if you were to say add 6 or more leds you may have to add a heavier relay otherwise nothing changes

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post #39 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 11:34 AM
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I don't think it would back feed as it is still very simple I have an automotive degree, though I agree your setup is easier and would maybe be the best in this scenario

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post #40 of 110 Old 02-18-2013, 11:37 AM
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I'm not saying it would backfeed but he runs that possibility. Where as with the series setup there is next to nothing to go wrong

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