CustomLED integrated tail brake light not operational - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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CustomLED integrated tail brake light not operational

I check every so often to make sure that my brake light comes on when stopped at a light, my check last night showed no brake light operation.

Anybody else with customled's integrated tail experienced this? I did not install the board, so I'm not sure how they wired it, i figure it was done properly as the strobed brake light worked fine before, just not now. Is there an order of operations for troubleshooting? Is there a switch/fuse/etc that I should check first?

Also, this happens when I key on the bike, I figured it was normal, since it has happened since it was installed, but perhaps it is not. I would check my manuals before, posting first, but I just wiped my phone and re-flashed a new ROM, and reception here sucks, so pulling the PDF from DRIVE would take a century.

CustomLED key on behavior. - YouTube

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post #2 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 03:42 PM
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there have been some documented break switch issues. You may want to look in that direction first. I'll look 4 u too.

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post #3 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 03:42 PM
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Common malfunction is for the rear brake switch to get stuck in the on position or come out of adjustment, so it could be that it's stuck on and nothing is happening when you apply the brakes.

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post #4 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Common malfunction is for the rear brake switch to get stuck in the on position or come out of adjustment, so it could be that it's stuck on and nothing is happening when you apply the brakes.
I wonder, is that the brake light being triggered as soon as I turn the key? And then nothing after since its stuck in the "on"? Position?

How to check/rectify?

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post #5 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 04:09 PM
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FRONT and REAR
Disconnect the brake light switch connector and
check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity with the brake lever/pedal
applied, and there should be no continuity when the
brake lever/pedal is released.

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post #6 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariannasdaddy View Post
FRONT and REAR
Disconnect the brake light switch connector and
check for continuity between the terminals.
There should be continuity with the brake lever/pedal
applied, and there should be no continuity when the
brake lever/pedal is released.
Is "continuity" an electrical term? Like using a multimeter to check somethin?

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post #7 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 05:08 PM
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You can try just adjusting the rear brake switch. It has a knurled knob that you can turn with your finger. You can also cycle the plunger in and out from the bottom of the switch and see if it's sticking. Mine used to get out of adjustment pretty often before I replaced it.



Doing what AD suggested will tell you for sure. To check continuity, you would just connect a multimeter (set to resistance-ohms) to the brake switch wires. When the lever not actuated it will read high, and when actuated near 0.

Good luck.

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post #8 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
You can try just adjusting the rear brake switch. It has a knurled knob that you can turn with your finger. You can also cycle the plunger in and out from the bottom of the switch and see if it's sticking. Mine used to get out of adjustment pretty often before I replaced it.

Doing what AD suggested will tell you for sure. To check continuity, you would just connect a multimeter (set to resistance-ohms) to the brake switch wires. When the lever not actuated it will read high, and when actuated near 0.

Good luck.
Which way to turn the knob if I suspect it to be in "on" position? How much should I turn it? I think this may be the case since I only noticed it after the tip over, and it did fall on that side, it plunges seemingly fine...

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post #9 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytheii View Post
Which way to turn the knob if I suspect it to be in "on" position? How much should I turn it? I think this may be the case since I only noticed it after the tip over, and it did fall on that side, it plunges seemingly fine...

Whichever way would cause the whole switch to move down should be the right way to encourage the plunger to go back into the switch. I would go out and check mine, but I don't have that type switch on mine any more.

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post #10 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 05:41 PM
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post #11 of 22 Old 02-24-2013, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
Whichever way would cause the whole switch to move down should be the right way to encourage the plunger to go back into the switch. I would go out and check mine, but I don't have that type switch on mine any more.
So plunger in switch = circuit being broken? or completed?

I will try this in the morning, and see if I have any good results.

I did a parts search so i could get an idea of what/where each switch is...

is the front brake light switch part # 1 on this page,

2003 Honda 919 CB900F Parts, 2003 Honda 919 CB900F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

and on this page is part # 6 the rear switch?

2003 Honda 919 CB900F Parts, 2003 Honda 919 CB900F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

If I suspect that the rear is the culprit, might i just disconnect that switch?

I will be installing my sato rearsets here in a bit, and i know i can use a pressure switch i read about on another thread with the rearset, and honestly i never really use the rear brake by itself, only in conjunction with the front when quick stops are required, and rarely as a parking brake on an incline...so i am thinking why not just cut out the rear triggering the brake light at all...

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post #12 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 01:03 AM
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I've had a faulty rear switch causing the CLed to be stuck on the brighter braking mode. Cut the rear switch wires and isolated them. Problem solved

I always use the front and rear brake together so I dont have to worry about it not coming on. And as an added bonus I can slow down without letting the LEOs know.

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post #13 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 01:10 AM
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In NY when they do the yearly inspection you have to show that both front and rear brakes activate the light.

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post #14 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 01:12 AM
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In the short run, you could just disassemble the switch and clean it. It's known to get sticky from road grime.

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post #15 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 03:08 AM
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If you are replacing the switch, it might be better to upgrade to an aftermarket hydraulic switch.

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post #16 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytheii View Post
So plunger in switch = circuit being broken? or completed?

I will try this in the morning, and see if I have any good results.

I did a parts search so i could get an idea of what/where each switch is...

is the front brake light switch part # 1 on this page,

2003 Honda 919 CB900F Parts, 2003 Honda 919 CB900F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

and on this page is part # 6 the rear switch?

2003 Honda 919 CB900F Parts, 2003 Honda 919 CB900F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

If I suspect that the rear is the culprit, might i just disconnect that switch?

I will be installing my sato rearsets here in a bit, and i know i can use a pressure switch i read about on another thread with the rearset, and honestly i never really use the rear brake by itself, only in conjunction with the front when quick stops are required, and rarely as a parking brake on an incline...so i am thinking why not just cut out the rear triggering the brake light at all...
Plunger in=circuit broken

Part numbers look correct.

You could disconnect it. I think if you are switching to Sato rear sets you pretty much have to go with a hydraulic switch. I switched to a hydraulic switch a while back and never have to worry any more.

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post #17 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewebay1
If you are replacing the switch, it might be better to upgrade to an aftermarket hydraulic switch.
+1!thats what I did. I haven't installed it yet tho. If it turns out to be the customLED board, you can try to find a clear alternatives one. They are better quality. I've had mine for seven years without a problem.

Spoiler:

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post #18 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
+1!thats what I did. I haven't installed it yet tho. If it turns out to be the customLED board, you can try to find a clear alternatives one. They are better quality. I've had mine for seven years without a problem.

Sounds like if you have a Clear Alternatives one, all of you problems are behind you.

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post #19 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike

Sounds like if you have a Clear Alternatives one, all of you problems are behind you.
That what I've heard. Lol.

Spoiler:

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post #20 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 08:59 AM
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post #21 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
You can try just adjusting the rear brake switch. It has a knurled knob that you can turn with your finger. You can also cycle the plunger in and out from the bottom of the switch and see if it's sticking. Mine used to get out of adjustment pretty often before I replaced it.

Doing what AD suggested will tell you for sure. To check continuity, you would just connect a multimeter (set to resistance-ohms) to the brake switch wires. When the lever not actuated it will read high, and when actuated near 0.

Good luck.


843808.jpg

I deeeed it!

Simple adjustment on the knob (counter clockwise) to allow the mechanism to go lower, less pressure from the spring, allowed my brake light function to go back to normal, and both work, front and rear. thanks mike! 2beers for you!

But now I'm worried all that brake "lighting" will cause my LEDs to explode since its not a clear alternatives :/

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post #22 of 22 Old 02-25-2013, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sytheii View Post
Attachment 24394

I deeeed it!

Simple adjustment on the knob (counter clockwise) to allow the mechanism to go lower, less pressure from the spring, allowed my brake light function to go back to normal, and both work, front and rear. thanks mike! 2beers for you!

But now I'm worried all that brake "lighting" will cause my LEDs to explode since its not a clear alternatives :/

Excellent. Glad you got it fixed. Just passing along what I learned from others, when I had the same issue.

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