CB919 lower bars - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-30-2018, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all.
Thinking of changing the stock bars on my 2002 CB919 Hornet as they are too narrow and too high.
If i put lower bars on, at full lock left/right will the switches touch the fuel tank? Anyone any thoughts?


Steve
York UK

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-30-2018, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspect1968 View Post
Hi all.
Thinking of changing the stock bars on my 2002 CB919 Hornet as they are too narrow and too high.
If i put lower bars on, at full lock left/right will the switches touch the fuel tank? Anyone any thoughts?


Steve
York UK
Some bars will result in the switch pods hitting the tank very near and at full lock.
Coerce bars will hit, the low ones that is. (they are also a touch wide for the clamps on the top triple clamp)
Renthal ULs (Ultra Lows) won't.
I tried Coerce, and still have my Renthal ULs on the bike.
There are many bar suppliers, and a range of bends.
Suggest you look very carefully at the tabled dimensions of any bar you are looking at, and compare them to the dimensions of a Renthal UL, at least that way you will be able to have a relative feel for things.

No doubt some other WTers will post what they have successfully used.
Key is understanding you are looking for a lower bar, not just different bends at the same height.

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-30-2018, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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I'll look at trying Renthal UL. Thanks

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-31-2018, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspect1968 View Post
I'll look at trying Renthal UL. Thanks
Something else.
The issue of clearance to tank is also related to the positioning of the pods on the new bars.
Some attempt to replicate the factory arrangement by drilling holes in the new bars.
Depending on where one actually drills the holes, can affect the pod position along the length as well as its clocking, as in helping or making things worse.
Some grind off the pod locating pins, like I did, so you can get the pods exactly how you want them re lever angles in particular, but then be left having to put some tape on the bars to keep the pods from moving as the pod clamping force is not that good on its own.

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post #5 of 14 Old 07-31-2018, 11:12 PM
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I had a Coerce baron my 919. It cleared. I drilled. Not hard. Clamp bar on bike. Smear grease on bar. Position switch gear on bar. The pins on the inside of the switch gear will leave a mark where you need to drill.

Guys have ground off the pins. The throttle has a tendency to st turn if you don’t drill.

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post #6 of 14 Old 08-02-2018, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Took about 1hr 30min. Easier than i though. Renthal UL.
Drilled to locate the pins for the switches. I also added some masonary bolts to the bar ends for a bit of bar end weight. Tidy job and happy with the results 😁

Before and after
Attached Images
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-02-2018, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspect1968 View Post
Took about 1hr 30min. Easier than i though. Renthal UL.
Drilled to locate the pins for the switches. I also added some masonary bolts to the bar ends for a bit of bar end weight. Tidy job and happy with the results 😁

Before and after
I love the blue colour, it's what I wanted but there was no blue in 2005.
Re the bar end weights.
If you want to go further than the masonry bolts, I found LSL's on line and bought them many years ago.
Nicely shaped stainless steel ends, the fit perfectly into the thick wall/small bore ULs.
They were labelled as "135-003VA".

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post #8 of 14 Old 08-02-2018, 08:28 PM
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I just ordered a set of my own renthal ULs. They should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I can do as neat of a job as you did!

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post #9 of 14 Old 08-02-2018, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
I love the blue colour, it's what I wanted but there was no blue in 2005.
Re the bar end weights.
If you want to go further than the masonry bolts, I found LSL's on line and bought them many years ago.
Nicely shaped stainless steel ends, the fit perfectly into the thick wall/small bore ULs.
They were labelled as "135-003VA".

I like that blue as well, you often don't see it.

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post #10 of 14 Old 08-03-2018, 05:02 AM
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Bought my 919 with these pro taper bars and risers already on it. I really like the height and riding position with them.
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post #11 of 14 Old 08-03-2018, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspect1968 View Post
Took about 1hr 30min. Easier than i though. Renthal UL.
Drilled to locate the pins for the switches. I also added some masonary bolts to the bar ends for a bit of bar end weight. Tidy job and happy with the results 😁
You do have the best color! I may be a bit biased...
My photo is before I put on the Renthal UL's a few years ago. Good choice with that! For me it was a great improvement.
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post #12 of 14 Old 08-03-2018, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Unrelated but i noticed the radiator hose in the left has wire mesh around it. Mine has too. Guess that is standard. Is it there to protect from burns etc? Anyone removed thiers?

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post #13 of 14 Old 08-03-2018, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aspect1968 View Post
Unrelated but i noticed the radiator hose in the left has wire mesh around it. Mine has too. Guess that is standard. Is it there to protect from burns etc? Anyone removed thiers?
It's there for long term external support for what is a fairly long hose that is fairly heavily shaped.

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post #14 of 14 Old 08-04-2018, 08:19 PM
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Good job Steve! Can you tell that we here in the USA did not get blue? It is a great color.

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