Brake lever issues - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 27 Old 09-01-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Brake lever issues

Hey guys, I got some aftermarket shorty levels off sleazeBay and when I compress the brake, the lever won't go back to its original position to push in the button (highlighted in the pic with the arrow) to turn off brake light. Any ideas? Besides buying some expensive real levers? I tried living all the parts, but didn't work.
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post #2 of 27 Old 09-01-2013, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Brake *lever*

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post #3 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 06:19 AM
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Fixed the title for you.

Dos the new lever fit in the perch properly? If it;s a snug fit you may need to sand or file a little of the lever to smooth it out. Did you lubricate the pivot?

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post #4 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 07:21 AM
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Buying inexpensive knock-off levers is sometimes a real crap shoot. If the lever does not return, there must be some sort of interference with it's travel.

I went with these and have been very pleased with fit and finish. They went on without a hitch and function perfectly.

http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Exten...-Set-Honda.htm



"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS EARLY APEX."
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post #5 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
Fixed the title for you.

Dos the new lever fit in the perch properly? If it;s a snug fit you may need to sand or file a little of the lever to smooth it out. Did you lubricate the pivot?
Thank you, it was a snug fit, so I got some multi purpose grease but it didnt work, ill have to try filing it down

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post #6 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
Buying inexpensive knock-off levers is sometimes a real crap shoot. If the lever does not return, there must be some sort of interference with it's travel.

I went with these and have been very pleased with fit and finish. They went on without a hitch and function perfectly.

http://shop.the2wheels.com/CNC-Exten...-Set-Honda.htm
Those are some sexy ass levers If I can't these to work ill have to order some of those. Thank you!

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post #7 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 07:06 PM
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10 bucks says you have the main pivot bolt tightened down too much.

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post #8 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
10 bucks says you have the main pivot bolt tightened down too much.
Oh wtf it really can't be the easy can it?

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post #9 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
10 bucks says you have the main pivot bolt tightened down too much.
Well my friend, you owe me $10. I loosened it all the way and it still won't disengage the brake.

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post #10 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 580riginal View Post
Oh wtf it really can't be the easy can it?
i have seen it happen before... i am pretty sure honda made them to where you cant do that (its a shoulder bolt) but i would loosen up the nut on the underside, and loosen the main bolt up and see if that solves it... if so just pay attention on how tight you get the main bolt and use the bottom nut to tighten everything up.

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post #11 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 08:39 PM
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The brake light switch is also adjustable in its socket...maybe give it a little nudge?

Well, fire the engines! Spur this iron space-pony on!

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post #12 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 08:51 PM
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I bet their specs are just a tad off (or they just don't give a crap) and the lever is dragging in the perch or the inside diameter of the pivot bolt hole is too tight, file it down and give it another go. I always lube the clutch and brake pivots with silicone caliper slide grease, it'll hold up to anything you can throw at it and it keeps moisture away from bits that can rust


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post #13 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The brake light switch is also adjustable in its socket...maybe give it a little nudge?
Ya I tried to do that as well. Even if I move the light switch, the brake won't fully disengage.

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post #14 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
I bet their specs are just a tad off (or they just don't give a crap) and the lever is dragging in the perch or the inside diameter of the pivot bolt hole is too tight, file it down and give it another go. I always lube the clutch and brake pivots with silicone caliper slide grease, it'll hold up to anything you can throw at it and it keeps moisture away from bits that can rust
I'm starting to think that it is the specs. When I release the brake, the round part (not sure what its called) that the lever pushes in to activate the brake, won't fully push back out, which in turn doesn't push in the light switch. I tried completely loosening the pivot bolt (and lubed it with grease when I installed it) but it still won't fully deactivate the brake.

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post #15 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:07 PM
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Did the old lever function properly? was the bike dropped on the right side?


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post #16 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voodooridr View Post
Did the old lever function properly? was the bike dropped on the right side?
Yeah the old one worked fine and no it hasn't been dropped. It was really hard to get the brake lever in between the top and bottom mounting brackets. I think I'm going to stop by a hardware store tomorrow and grab a file and file down the top to make it a little easier to get it in.

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post #17 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:35 PM
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I bet that solves the problem


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post #18 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 580riginal View Post
Yeah the old one worked fine and no it hasn't been dropped. It was really hard to get the brake lever in between the top and bottom mounting brackets. I think I'm going to stop by a hardware store tomorrow and grab a file and file down the top to make it a little easier to get it in.
some KY should make that much easier..... o wait





If it was hard to just put in the perch than yeah it was manufactured too thick.

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post #19 of 27 Old 09-02-2013, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post

some KY should make that much easier..... o wait

If it was hard to just put in the perch than yeah it was manufactured too thick.
Tra-la-la TROLL!! Haha ya KY has helped me in some tight situations before.

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post #20 of 27 Old 09-13-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I should've thought of this first, but I turned out it just needed to be ground down by a drill. Just took a mm off the bottom where the Lever attached and now it works fine.

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post #21 of 27 Old 09-13-2013, 09:35 PM
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good job, now go ride the thing


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post #22 of 27 Old 09-13-2013, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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good job, now go ride the thing
Haha, oh I have trust me. But not for long. About to take it apart, start powder coating, 900rr headers and fork seal replacement. My baby is going under the knife *tear*

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post #23 of 27 Old 09-14-2013, 04:21 PM
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before you fully replace the fork seals (unless they're really really bad) Try cleaning them. I just used a seal mate to clean mine when I thought I had a pretty badly blown seal, and have no leaks at all now. A lot of guys on here just make there own out of bottles and such... If you already ordered the seals it's a little late i guess

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post #24 of 27 Old 09-14-2013, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ya mine are really bad. The right seal is leaking so bad that its getting on the brake. I already have the seals and my buddy is a mechanic so were just going to replace both of them anyways since we're pulling the bottom fork and top triple off for the powder coating.

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post #25 of 27 Old 09-14-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1 View Post
Buying inexpensive knock-off levers is sometimes a real crap shoot. If the lever does not return, there must be some sort of interference with it's travel.

I went with these and have been very pleased with fit and finish. They went on without a hitch and function perfectly.

CNC Adjustable Clutch Brake Levers Set for BMW
the2Wheels makes some great "cheap" parts. I have several sets of his levers spread out between all my bikes, along with a full perch, MC, and lever set. Best 120 bucks I spent for some new shinyness on my project Hawk...
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post #26 of 27 Old 09-15-2013, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpcraft View Post

the2Wheels makes some great "cheap" parts. I have several sets of his levers spread out between all my bikes, along with a full perch, MC, and lever set. Best 120 bucks I spent for some new shinyness on my project Hawk...
Those look good! Mine were only a fraction of that cost though. I think they were $30 shipped. Just needed a little shaved off to fit perfect.

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post #27 of 27 Old 09-15-2013, 07:24 PM
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Well, keep in mind, 120 bucks was for the freshly powder coated clutch perch and brake master cylinder with standard shorty levers that were anodized blue. Usually when I buy levers from the2wheels I get the ones that are adjustable and flip up if you drop the bike so I already had a set to swap on to the perch and brake MC once I received it. If I buy the levers like that I think they usually run around 60 bucks with shipping, which still a site better than paying what you pay for the other "name" brands.

Those came with the clutch and brake switch installed as well, so overall if you have some scratched up ratty looking controls then its a nice way to refresh your bike, especially if you are doing a rebuild like I am doing. It will last a lot longer than paint will also.

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