Any mods worth the $? - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 05:09 AM Thread Starter
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Any mods worth the $?

Hola folks,

I have a CB900f 2005 model which seems stock other than the remus racing carbon cans. 55k on the clock. Had the fluids changed, valves checked and plugs, oil and filter changed and other thorough service bits and bobs checked in March after picking up the bike.

It has proven very reliable, lots of fun for commuting, but always I feel like I am boarding a missile when I take my 09 FZ1 (quite heavily modded) for a quick spin, which I have for sale still. This comparison is always going to fare badly.

Still...I can't help but ponder what mods I could apply to find some form of gain, mainly in pick up low down. I am aware that the mid range is likely a lot of fun, but given I am still on a 1 point on my licence and I am banned for 12 months (probation after ban courtesy of the FZ1) I rarely find chance to get above 7k rpm. Too many police and cameras.

I find myself peeking at PCIIIs yet wonder if the difference in power delivery is really that noticeable after? Is it worth the cash?

The airbox mod seems a very small gain if anything noticeable?

Maybe better to spend some $ on the shocks? Or somewhere else entirely?

Would a dyno tune be worth the investment for a gain I could very much feel and enjoy? Seems very pricey for Melbourne options!

Any advice is welcome.

Cheers,

Daniel

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post #2 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 06:43 AM
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Short answer, no.

Longer answer, none of those things are really going to give you an appreciable increase in power, they will just smooth out the curve or move it around. If you really just want more low end grunt (which I've never heard someone complaining about on a 919) you could change to shorter gearing. You'll lose some top end, which doesn't sound like a problem for you, but gain more acceleration down low.

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post #3 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 01:16 PM
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I also don't believe I've ever heard anyone dissatisfied with the low end performance of the 919. It's engine was tuned for low and mid-range torque. It seems to be plenty stout to me at least. And keep in mind that when you start messing around with fuel maps, intake restrictions and exhaust systems, you end up with a bike that you won't be able to sell at a reasonable price if you decide to part company with it later. If the 919 doesn't have enough "grunt" to satisfy you, then you're gonna need a bigger machine. Enjoy it for what it is or move on!
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 01:57 PM
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I was only dissatisfied with the low-end of the 919 when I got my Tuono.

After that, I didn't have much desire to throw a leg over the 919. It was heavier, steering was not as neutral ast the T, and of course lacked power.

So... with what you are asking the 919 to do, I don't think it can be done without major modifications. Seems like you are wanting a different kind of bike more than anything.

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post #5 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Indeed, I shall probably stop riding the heavily souped up FZ1 sporadically. Its always going to feel like a missile, as it is a missile.

Will likely avoid any major spending, other than consider the change in gearing, given its fairly cheap, would only need the additional speedo healer to keep me on the straight(ish) and narrow(ish) and will make for a little more play off the mark. I rarely get to use the top end. Yet will soon book a night or two away and get stuck into the mid range on the country roads, once the frost has eased off and more Spring is upon us.

Appreciate the advice, chaps.

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post #6 of 17 Old 08-28-2018, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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The stock gearing is 16/43?

I read on here that to gain a little you can use a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket! what is the difference between this and a normal 15t front sprocket?

I remember the difference on the Fazer of dropping the front sprocket down by 1 tooth. It was very evident.

Seems a fair amount of opinions on what is for the best, yet i suppose I am seeking what will fit the chain, which I assume is of the stock length which will give me the extra stop zoom from a standing start, lose a little top end but not make the damn thing eager to point its snout upwards and launch skywards too easily.

And please don't get me wrong with my earlier words. I LOVE the hornet. its a punchy little beast and so narrow it sneaks through amazingly tight gaps. Also light enough to throw around, and once I have replaced the seemingly iron clad Bridgestones and I receive the points back on my licence in November, I will be able to play a little more freely.

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post #7 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 10:26 AM
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Bike turns less buzzy at highway speeds and acceleration improves a bit, but it's mostly the buzziness that is nice to get rid of.


I got the full kit from @LDH with gold chain :P looks good.




Quote:
Originally Posted by thegutterpoet View Post
The stock gearing is 16/43?

I read on here that to gain a little you can use a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket! what is the difference between this and a normal 15t front sprocket?

I remember the difference on the Fazer of dropping the front sprocket down by 1 tooth. It was very evident.

Seems a fair amount of opinions on what is for the best, yet i suppose I am seeking what will fit the chain, which I assume is of the stock length which will give me the extra stop zoom from a standing start, lose a little top end but not make the damn thing eager to point its snout upwards and launch skywards too easily.

And please don't get me wrong with my earlier words. I LOVE the hornet. its a punchy little beast and so narrow it sneaks through amazingly tight gaps. Also light enough to throw around, and once I have replaced the seemingly iron clad Bridgestones and I receive the points back on my licence in November, I will be able to play a little more freely.

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post #8 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thegutterpoet View Post
The stock gearing is 16/43?

I read on here that to gain a little you can use a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket! what is the difference between this and a normal 15t front sprocket?

I remember the difference on the Fazer of dropping the front sprocket down by 1 tooth. It was very evident.

Seems a fair amount of opinions on what is for the best, yet i suppose I am seeking what will fit the chain, which I assume is of the stock length which will give me the extra stop zoom from a standing start, lose a little top end but not make the damn thing eager to point its snout upwards and launch skywards too easily.

And please don't get me wrong with my earlier words. I LOVE the hornet. its a punchy little beast and so narrow it sneaks through amazingly tight gaps. Also light enough to throw around, and once I have replaced the seemingly iron clad Bridgestones and I receive the points back on my licence in November, I will be able to play a little more freely.
The front sprocket is the countershaft sprocket... one is just a slightly more technical name.

Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle - Hunter S. Thompson
I just mı̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̸̨ade you wipe your screen.
-2009 Suzuki GSX-R 750 Race Bike
-2007 Honda 919
-1995 Nighthawk 750 (Tboned)
-1983 KZ 440 (Sold)
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 12:40 PM
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I don't regret spending money on a Power Commander. I just love what it did for my bike. Not exactly more power just better. The throttle feels More connected to my wrist. I have become one with my machine. Okay that last bit sounded dumb but you get the point.

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post #10 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 01:09 PM
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The most obvious mods for me were the 15 sprocket, the Mivv x cones, and the powercommander, all made a very noticeable performance increases. The Ohlins suspension upgrades are nothing short of amazing too.
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post #11 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 01:34 PM
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Sorry I was talking out my ass :P


I moved to the 17/44 with chain combo from LDH.
I have no experience with 15front.



If an admin Can remove my previous post that'd be nice of you .



Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Bike turns less buzzy at highway speeds and acceleration improves a bit, but it's mostly the buzziness that is nice to get rid of.


I got the full kit from @LDH with gold chain :P looks good.

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post #12 of 17 Old 08-29-2018, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
Sorry I was talking out my ass :P


I moved to the 17/44 with chain combo from LDH.
I have no experience with 15front.



If an admin Can remove my previous post that'd be nice of you .
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diablo View Post
The most obvious mods for me were the 15 sprocket, the Mivv x cones, and the powercommander, all made a very noticeable performance increases. The Ohlins suspension upgrades are nothing short of amazing too.
Left for work early and had a clearer trajectory and the beast within the machine finally seemed to find my beast within. It was as if the hunk of steel and gristle finally remembered it was a CBR fiend asked to calm down (just a little) and wear different clothes.

I really have yet to unleash the bike to anywhere near its rage potential. As had the Winter to contend with and also remain on a 1 point and I remain probation in an extremely police heavy city. Until November 14th. When I should have my full allotment of points returned to my licence. Just in time for Summer.

I remember a few folks telling me with my previous bike, the older crowd mainly, that before I considered any changes to the power I should focus on the suspension. Which led me to change the rear shock which made a difference to the handling. I've still not considered the settings on my 919. As setting the sag seems to need some time and focus, yet this seems a free lesson which might lead to some change in the ride.

Ohlins products appear hugely expensive and perhaps it worth thinking of the fork fluid, which I am unsure when or if it has been changed. This was another tip from an old biker, to get a noticeably more smooth change in the front end and beyond. Pricey for the labour or something viable for a haphzard eternally novice mechanic?

Other than which, I will probably just focus on getting to grips with some maintenance rather than applying any mods. Chain is overdue a good clean D.I.D installed 10k back from the service history. Not sure on the sprockets but assume they are fine as it wasn't mentioned in the Roadworthy earlier this year nor were any other mild or serious concerns. Grease merchants who did the service also found all was lovely. Really just need to head out into the countryside and delve into the RPM range.

The 17/44 routine seems very well praised. Yet again, I suspect that it might be best to leave what I have presently in place else I am throwing away $. Yet, better economy? No major loss of power/torque low down or in the middle? More accurate speedo? Seems like a dream!

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post #13 of 17 Old 08-30-2018, 05:06 AM
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If you need more low end power, just down shift, and twist the throttle. Works 100% of the time.

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post #14 of 17 Old 08-30-2018, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
If you need more low end power, just down shift, and twist the throttle. Works 100% of the time.
And make sure to take all the play out of your throttle cable. Worked wonders for me

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post #15 of 17 Old 08-30-2018, 12:00 PM
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Who here has had a custom map made? Was it worth it?

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post #16 of 17 Old 08-30-2018, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ditch View Post
Who here has had a custom map made? Was it worth it?
I had a map made by this gentleman for $75, which also includes accelerator pump settings and instructions for throttle calibration.

http://jeffomaps.com/efi-tuning-services

$75 for a map (based on bike specific mods, elevation and riding temperature), that is custom but not done on a dyno.

Some people may have their doubts, and while I am new to this, I can tell/feel how good this map is.

I rode with the a:
1. PC3 serial with a poor match for the bike map, bike was starving for fuel.
2. PC3 serial with the fueling manually adjusted way up with the buttons (vast improvement over the installed map)
3. A new PC3-USB with a stock map
4. PC3-USB with the Jeffo map/accelerator pump.

It is a completely different ride now.
Throttle now is extremely smooth and responsive on acceleration and deceleration across all gears/rpm ranges.

Jeffo was extremely helpful from start to finish. Great customer service, takes the time to call you and have phone conversations. Really great guy, can't ride anymore due to hip surgery, but says he lives vicariously through his customers.

To me it was worth the $75 risk and it paid off.
Especially vs the option of spending $250-$500 for a custom map made on a dyno.
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post #17 of 17 Old 08-30-2018, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
If you need more low end power, just down shift, and twist the throttle. Works 100% of the time.
hohoho! I've been riding long enough to realise this, mate...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadiak View Post
And make sure to take all the play out of your throttle cable. Worked wonders for me
Now this is something I have considered of late - though for whatever reason (perhaps the weather, perhaps a slight loosening of the enforced strictness in adhering to the speed limit since November of last year with probation finishing in 2 months time now) the last two morning rides have been like falling in love - there does seem some slack in the throttle cable. I will have to peek this weekend.

I am loosely convincing myself that if I can reach the November 14th mark, and end the probationary period, a 12 month period without a single infringement, receive my full set of points back on the licence, I can perhaps treat myself to a different set of tyres.

The Bridgestone T30 evos which the previous owner put on in March are not to my liking at all. They are terrible in the wet and offer far less confidence in the lean than I am accustomed to feeling and now naturally seek. It seems on one hand a little wasteful to consider ditching tyres barely 9 months old, which surely another 12 months on them in terms of tread, but on the other, its a safety issue. Its not solely to allow me to lean and roar with more confidence. And so I shall ponder more the Michelin PRs, which seem to have great reviews and whatever else seems very focused on grip for rapid commuting and very little, if any touring, whilst also offering decent grasp in the wet.

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