2017-2018 Winter Build Thread - Page 3 - Wrist Twisters
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post #81 of 223 Old 01-17-2018, 11:20 PM
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Thanks! The Delkevic system is specific to the 919 (product# KIT03AC) for which they only make header-back systems, so I retained the stock headers. Theirs replaces the Y-pipe and all the way back from there.

-Stock Mufflers w/ heat shields and bolts: 8.6lbs each side (17.2lbs total)
-Delkevic Mufflers w/ mounting bracket and clamps: 3.164lbs each side (6.328lbs total)

-Stock Y-pipe: ~2lbs give or take a few ounces. had a hard time getting it stable on the scale.
-Delkvic Y-Pipe: 3.678lbs

So total savings for the exhaust was just about 9lbs.
The Delkevic Y-pipe was nearly TWICE the weight? What accounts for the difference, and why not just use the stock Y-pipe?

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post #82 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 02:29 AM
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I got this. The delkevic Y pipe is also the link pipe for both sides. The stock system has its "link" pipe permanently welded to the end cans. The stock Y pipe has much shorter arms. In most after market systems you retain the stock Y pipe and use two separate link pipes. Delkevic also make a system which retains the stock Y pipe. The single Y/link pipe is the lightest of all. Might also give a smoother internal flow surface. Stainless as well.
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post #83 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 06:54 AM
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Winter build

Here is a picture of my first bike in many years: 06 919. I have really enjoyed the bike but until recently have been very limited with my time to do so. It currently weighs (with about a half tank of fuel) 444 LBS, makes 100 HP @ the rear wheel and with my old non skilled riding abilities ran a 7:09 @ 101.50 MPH in the eighth mile just like you see it. I bought another bike last year and thought briefly of selling my 919 but every time I get back on it, I am in love all over. So this winter I decided to see what makes it tick. Great little motor so far, but the head reminds me of my bikes in the eighties, there is HP to be gained but you have to earn it. The number one port is the first time having a tool in my hand for many years so I am going slow. I am having a ball so far, we'll see how some back yard ingenuity combined with junk yard parts works out???? I will share if you are interested?
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File Type: jpg 919 - 3 - Copy.jpg (229.6 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Disassembly step 1.jpg (79.1 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg First port in about 20 years.jpg (71.5 KB, 102 views)

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post #84 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Neat! I personally am not looking to crack open the motor but it'd be interesting to see what you'd find. How far are you planning on going with the head work?

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post #85 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 07:21 AM
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I vote TURBO.... its a hoot. 3rd gear power wheelies with ease. I have yet to run the 1/4 mile on mine, but every fast bike I own has made the strip a few times. This is the year for this bike- for sure!

I love that your porting your head and valve guides. The only issue I have seen with this is the valve can start to float at higher RPM due to the valve guide being short it could result in premature valve guide ware thus causing the valve to "dance" or float in the top of the cam profile. I always suggest to people who port the intake runners to slim down the guides but never remove them. This is far better conducive of longer life in a street machine.

Also be sure to bench flow the head and match the flow cfm volume. What cam will you be running to match the higher flow? Keep us posted. Nice work!!!

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post #86 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 02:38 PM
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Thanks ahung & Nealio! Sorry for the slow response, I had to run out.

How far are you planning on going with the head work? Just what i can get using the stock valves. I also want to retain the midrange as much as possible. Based on what I have seen, i think it is very doable.

What cam will you be running to match the higher flow? This is where the junk yard parts comes in. I am using a set of 900rr cams. I have a process to add my cam sensor for the F.I. but only time will tell if it will be successful?? These cams are conservative about 30" more lift and 15 degrees more duration.

My overall goal is to just wake it up a bit without selling the farm. The bike must remain very reliable and enjoyable to ride (as it is now). I rarely haul my bike to the track. Unless, I am there purely on a tuning mission where I need tools, parts, laptop ECT... to maximize the bikes performance. On all other rare occasions that I go to the drag strip, I ride it. That's part of the night out and enjoyment.

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post #87 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 03:29 PM
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Well it sounds like your are building that motor for the top end of the RPM range. I know you want to retain mid range response but porting and cams are exactly what you would do for top end air flow. Also- very important to know that your throttle bodies are intentionally small, and velocity stacks are short to help in the mid rang power. I do hope you are planning to remedy these as well otherwise you will be defeating the purpose of all your hard work.

Have you ever built a engine before? There are lot of things to cover that will effect your overall outcome. Will you retain stock compression ratio?

Just food for thought.
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post #88 of 223 Old 01-18-2018, 03:58 PM
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All good points and well taken, that includes your other comments on the valve guides ECT... When I say I do not want to loose much low end or mid range, I do understand that some will be sacrificed. However, a small amount of loss in the low or mid range will be a trade off I am willing to make providing it is not too extreme. The thing I used to really enjoy about building motors was the journey or learning process. Sometimes it doesn't work out, but most of the time it has. All that was many years ago, but I still have the enthusiasm. I still like getting my hands dirty and tinkering. But this is the first time in a long time.

On another note, I got my y-pipe today. Another junk yard part. My jig is almost complete that I will use to replace the cat with straight tubing.

In looking at your collection, you have some really cool bikes. Any pictures or details on them in the garage?

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post #89 of 223 Old 01-19-2018, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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The Watsen's have arrived. Purty and solid feeling.


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post #90 of 223 Old 01-20-2018, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Watsen's are in! Only thing to note is that during the install, I was looking for those snap-type plastic connectors to snip off and re-use on my 2004 since that's what I saw in SuperSneakySteve's video. But mine had bullet connectors. Otherwise painless and I'm pleased with the results.

1. Roger @ Watsen advised that he's not doing Honda-specific lights anymore and focusing more on Triumphs, but he did still have the "slim" type Honda ones which is what I got. No running light option, which I don't mind.
2. The ends of the wires on the lights were bare, and I snipped off the ends of my stock lights and spliced them together, then crimped them down with the supplied copper ferules and shrink-tube wrapped them (also supplied).
3. I'm not sure if glossy black would have been a better match but this matte is close enough.
4. I stupidly dropped one of the lights during fit-up, and the coating scratches off VERY easily apparently.

Side shot:


Front:


On:


Also weights for the stock lights:


And realized I did not photo-document the stock y-pipe weight:


Only thing remaining is the brake lines, which I'm not looking forward to. And then a proper photo shoot with the nice camera is in order.

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post #91 of 223 Old 01-20-2018, 04:21 PM
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I like those Watson's a lot. Very cool, minimal look. Wonder how I could get a set here in Australia? Got an email contact?
You bike is looking great. We'll done.

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post #92 of 223 Old 01-20-2018, 04:35 PM
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Found em. Got the spelling wrong.

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post #93 of 223 Old 01-20-2018, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ahung12 View Post
Watsen's are in! Only thing to note is that during the install, I was looking for those snap-type plastic connectors to snip off and re-use on my 2004 since that's what I saw in SuperSneakySteve's video. But mine had bullet connectors. Otherwise painless and I'm pleased with the results.

1. Roger @ Watsen advised that he's not doing Honda-specific lights anymore and focusing more on Triumphs, but he did still have the "slim" type Honda ones which is what I got. No running light option, which I don't mind.
2. The ends of the wires on the lights were bare, and I snipped off the ends of my stock lights and spliced them together, then crimped them down with the supplied copper ferules and shrink-tube wrapped them (also supplied).
3. I'm not sure if glossy black would have been a better match but this matte is close enough.
4. I stupidly dropped one of the lights during fit-up, and the coating scratches off VERY easily apparently.

Side shot:


Front:


On:


Also weights for the stock lights:


And realized I did not photo-document the stock y-pipe weight:


Only thing remaining is the brake lines, which I'm not looking forward to. And then a proper photo shoot with the nice camera is in order.
THAT is looking real nice!
Tastefully done, for sure.

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post #94 of 223 Old 01-21-2018, 06:31 AM
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A+! Brake lines are a piece of cake. I have a bleeding tool you can borrow if needed.


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post #95 of 223 Old 01-21-2018, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Found em. Got the spelling wrong.
Roger there is super helpful. Took me about 4 weeks to get mine but as others have noted, it seems like these are made to order and you don't get invoiced until the set is complete and ready to ship. Might take a little bit longer to get to your side of the world though!
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post #96 of 223 Old 01-21-2018, 10:00 AM
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Your bike is one of the best looking 919's I have seen. I have to get through my performance project and then consider some cosmetic changes.

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post #97 of 223 Old 01-21-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Mark! There are some gorgeous 919's in this community and I used them for inspiration. Now I just need to ride it!

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post #98 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 05:33 AM
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Well I am KY and rarely ever see a 919. What part of the country are you in?

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post #99 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 05:34 AM
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Oh and one more thing.... Did you ever get those rear sets you were looking at??

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post #100 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 05:39 AM
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Nealio,

Just curious, have you ever had your turbo 919 on a dyno?? What type of system do you run?

Thanks

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post #101 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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I'm in the Chicagoland area. Only other 919 I've seen in person is Bartsitarski's (his is also super nice), but I was otherwise referring to others on this forum.

Haven't gone ahead with those rearsets. The battery is priority for me at the moment, trying to find a good deal on a Shorai lithium.

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post #102 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 07:41 AM
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Nealio,

Just curious, have you ever had your turbo 919 on a dyno?? What type of system do you run?

Thanks

I swapped the home brew turbo set up from the high mileage black bike, to my low (5k) mileage red bike. When doing so I found a few things that needed to be addressed such as cracked pressure lines, boost leaks, electrical issues. At hat point it had 151 hp and 92 ft-lbs torque.

I have since remedied these issues and improved the overall efficiency and design. It runs so much stronger than it did on the black bike. Im still running rich off boost and another dyno run will be done this summer before I hit the drag strip. The boost pressure has been increased to 8 psi and I have been playing with the fueling. I find this set up really matches the stock cam power profile well for torque delivery. If I had to guess, I would say in the range of 170 hp, and 100 tq... Im all of 220 lbs and it power wheelies 3rd gear with ease. I have had 4th come up on me a few times. Im also running the 17/44 gearing.

Long answer to a short question...
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File Type: jpg 20171216_144955.jpg (371.6 KB, 19 views)
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2006 Honda 919 TURBO
2005 Honda 919
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2005 Ducati Monster S4R
2000 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1997 Suzuki DS350SE -Sold
2002 Honda 750 Shadow ACE -Sold
2006 Kawasaki ZX-6R -Sold
2003 Honda CBR954RR (Drag Bike) -Sold
2002 Honda CBR954RR -Sold
1992 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
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post #103 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 11:26 AM
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Great answer to the question. I was just curious, you are the first person I have talked to with a turbo on a 919. As much torque as this little motor has, my thoughts are the turbo should be fairly manageable. A hundred years ago, turbo charged bikes were either "in lag or on boost". I know todays systems are far superior to then and the flat power band of the 919 should just promote a decent delivery. On a side note, where can I buy a 17 tooth front sprocket for my 520 chain??

Thanks and keep me informed on your turbo project.

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post #104 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 11:35 AM
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ahung12,

Understand. These are great bikes but just did not seem to gain popularity until several years after their production. So I rarely see them on the street. People often ask me about mine when I am out. The people I have let ride it, are instantly hooked on it. I went with the Shorai batter through Revzilla. Probably not the best price, but my original battery was almost dead and I knew I needed a good battery to get started on the project starting at the dyno. I have wanted some rear sets but just have not settled on what brand yet.

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post #105 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark61 View Post
Great answer to the question. I was just curious, you are the first person I have talked to with a turbo on a 919. As much torque as this little motor has, my thoughts are the turbo should be fairly manageable. A hundred years ago, turbo charged bikes were either "in lag or on boost". I know todays systems are far superior to then and the flat power band of the 919 should just promote a decent delivery. On a side note, where can I buy a 17 tooth front sprocket for my 520 chain??

Thanks and keep me informed on your turbo project.
I have virtually no lag at all. The Garrett gt25r is a small ball bearing turbo. It spools very quickly and is capable of much more psi. I start to make power around 4500 rpm and by 6500 rpm it starts to pull your arms off. I have virtually no turbo lag at all as im running stock compression.

17/44 520 chain combo can be found through Kyle racing. LDH can hook you up. If you do a search on this forum it will yield rich results.
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2006 Honda 919 TURBO
2005 Honda 919
2014 Honda CB1000R
2005 Ducati Monster S4R
2000 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1997 Suzuki DS350SE -Sold
2002 Honda 750 Shadow ACE -Sold
2006 Kawasaki ZX-6R -Sold
2003 Honda CBR954RR (Drag Bike) -Sold
2002 Honda CBR954RR -Sold
1992 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
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post #106 of 223 Old 01-24-2018, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Nealio919 View Post
I swapped the home brew turbo set up from the high mileage black bike, to my low (5k) mileage red bike. When doing so I found a few things that needed to be addressed such as cracked pressure lines, boost leaks, electrical issues. At hat point it had 151 hp and 92 ft-lbs torque.

I have since remedied these issues and improved the overall efficiency and design. It runs so much stronger than it did on the black bike. Im still running rich off boost and another dyno run will be done this summer before I hit the drag strip. The boost pressure has been increased to 8 psi and I have been playing with the fueling. I find this set up really matches the stock cam power profile well for torque delivery. If I had to guess, I would say in the range of 170 hp, and 100 tq... Im all of 220 lbs and it power wheelies 3rd gear with ease. I have had 4th come up on me a few times. Im also running the 17/44 gearing.

Long answer to a short question...
It sounds as though you have a decent overall combination at this juncture.
1
What is the longest duration you've run at full power?
My guess is that the heat rejection limit of the cooling system would be the time limiter.
2
Is your fueling system strictly a PC along with the ECU?
No ignition retard at all?
No fuel pressure boosting?

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post #107 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
It sounds as though you have a decent overall combination at this juncture.
1
What is the longest duration you've run at full power?
My guess is that the heat rejection limit of the cooling system would be the time limiter.
2
Is your fueling system strictly a PC along with the ECU?
No ignition retard at all?
No fuel pressure boosting?
#1 I have ran it at full boost in every gear (trying to keep the nose down). I have rode the bike 200 miles in one day without issue of overheating. I constantly monitor the digital dash combo gauge built into the Aim MXL display. I have never had an issue with cooling. Remember that in a real life scenario you are not boosting all the time your moving forward... In town I just tool around like any other day on a 919. This is my daily driver weather permitting and never has it gotten hot. This is a mild build on stock internals- stock pistons.

#2 Fueling is not stock. Has a secondary Walbro fuel pump, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator - boost compensating - 60 psi base. PCIII with hub and ignition module although I did not find a need to retard the timing as it yields no gain on the dyno.

Some specs:
Garrett GT25R ball bearing turbo - internal wastegate - currently set at 8psi
custom oil filter relocator
K&N air filter
304 stainless manifold and exhaust pipe
Tial BOV
RB racing oil evac pump
Jegs AN Fittings and braided stainless lines
walboro fuel pump
aeromotive fuel pressure regulator - boost compensating - 60 psi base
Fabricated aluminum plenum
fabricated stainless battery basket
PC3 with ignition commander and hub with boost compensation
rc51 front forks, cbr 954 rim and brakes
Aim MXL display with AFR, boost and EGT, mph, temp, oil pressure, RPM, and alarms

*Disclaimer- I did not build this bike from scratch. I bought it from a forum member who does not visit here anymore. He built this set up in 2009 and has ran the bike over 25,000 miles with the turbo installed (so ya, not worried about "heat rejection limit of the cooling system" being a problem- its proven solid) When I bought it I ran a compression check and found it was down about 15 psi from my other 919 with only 5k miles. So I decided to swap everything over to my red 2006 919. In doing so I replaced every o-ring, gasket, seal, vac and pressure line, and remedied a few electrical issues. I decided to make a few improvements along the way to benefit what was already there. I returned the black 919 to stock-ish and it runs and drives great.

2006 Honda 919 TURBO
2005 Honda 919
2014 Honda CB1000R
2005 Ducati Monster S4R
2000 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1997 Suzuki DS350SE -Sold
2002 Honda 750 Shadow ACE -Sold
2006 Kawasaki ZX-6R -Sold
2003 Honda CBR954RR (Drag Bike) -Sold
2002 Honda CBR954RR -Sold
1992 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1972 Honda CB350 -Sold
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post #108 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealio919 View Post
#1 I have ran it at full boost in every gear (trying to keep the nose down). I have rode the bike 200 miles in one day without issue of overheating. I constantly monitor the digital dash combo gauge built into the Aim MXL display. I have never had an issue with cooling. Remember that in a real life scenario you are not boosting all the time your moving forward... In town I just tool around like any other day on a 919. This is my daily driver weather permitting and never has it gotten hot. This is a mild build on stock internals- stock pistons.

#2 Fueling is not stock. Has a secondary Walbro fuel pump, aeromotive fuel pressure regulator - boost compensating - 60 psi base. PCIII with hub and ignition module although I did not find a need to retard the timing as it yields no gain on the dyno.

Some specs:
Garrett GT25R ball bearing turbo - internal wastegate - currently set at 8psi
custom oil filter relocator
K&N air filter
304 stainless manifold and exhaust pipe
Tial BOV
RB racing oil evac pump
Jegs AN Fittings and braided stainless lines
walboro fuel pump
aeromotive fuel pressure regulator - boost compensating - 60 psi base
Fabricated aluminum plenum
fabricated stainless battery basket
PC3 with ignition commander and hub with boost compensation
rc51 front forks, cbr 954 rim and brakes
Aim MXL display with AFR, boost and EGT, mph, temp, oil pressure, RPM, and alarms

*Disclaimer- I did not build this bike from scratch. I bought it from a forum member who does not visit here anymore. He built this set up in 2009 and has ran the bike over 25,000 miles with the turbo installed (so ya, not worried about "heat rejection limit of the cooling system" being a problem- its proven solid) When I bought it I ran a compression check and found it was down about 15 psi from my other 919 with only 5k miles. So I decided to swap everything over to my red 2006 919. In doing so I replaced every o-ring, gasket, seal, vac and pressure line, and remedied a few electrical issues. I decided to make a few improvements along the way to benefit what was already there. I returned the black 919 to stock-ish and it runs and drives great.
Nice write up, detailed and authoritative. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

Re my cooling capacity return, I realize around town and cruising would not be an issue. My curiosity was really in terms of how many seconds or minutes at full engine power would the system be able to maintain stable temperature, especially on a dyno.

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post #109 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Nice write up, detailed and authoritative. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

Re my cooling capacity return, I realize around town and cruising would not be an issue. My curiosity was really in terms of how many seconds or minutes at full engine power would the system be able to maintain stable temperature, especially on a dyno.
Well you can overheat any engine if abused properly, on a dyno or not... And how long will it take you to boost every gear till top speed? -seconds- wont matter as the cooling gets better (displaces more heat due to more air passing through the radiator) the faster you go anyhow. Long story short- Neither I, or previous owner, or the other 2 (?) turbo 919's have found the limit of the stock cooling ststem. And 9 times out of 10 when a street driven turbo bike is made correctly, they use the stock cooling system. If fueled and done correctly it does not add to the stress of the cooling system. I hope that helps to answer your question.
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2006 Honda 919 TURBO
2005 Honda 919
2014 Honda CB1000R
2005 Ducati Monster S4R
2000 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1997 Suzuki DS350SE -Sold
2002 Honda 750 Shadow ACE -Sold
2006 Kawasaki ZX-6R -Sold
2003 Honda CBR954RR (Drag Bike) -Sold
2002 Honda CBR954RR -Sold
1992 Honda 750 Nighthawk -Sold
1972 Honda CB350 -Sold
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post #110 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Nealio919 View Post
Well you can overheat any engine if abused properly, on a dyno or not... And how long will it take you to boost every gear till top speed? -seconds- wont matter as the cooling gets better (displaces more heat due to more air passing through the radiator) the faster you go anyhow. Long story short- Neither I, or previous owner, or the other 2 (?) turbo 919's have found the limit of the stock cooling ststem. And 9 times out of 10 when a street driven turbo bike is made correctly, they use the stock cooling system. If fueled and done correctly it does not add to the stress of the cooling system. I hope that helps to answer your question.
Yes indeed.

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post #111 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 11:40 AM
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Nealio,

Well you can overheat any engine if abused properly,

Now your talking my kind of language Nealio!! Of course I am just kidding.... good write up on the cooling part.

On another note, you said you have the add on ignition module for your PC3 correct? Does that module also give you the ability to alter the high end rev limiter?

Thanks Mark

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post #112 of 223 Old 01-25-2018, 12:04 PM
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ahung12, is there a reason you went with the Delkevic with the y pipe included as opposed to just the mufflers?

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post #113 of 223 Old 01-26-2018, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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ahung12, is there a reason you went with the Delkevic with the y pipe included as opposed to just the mufflers?
I asked the Delkevic rep why they offered both setups for the same price, and was told that they are discontinuing the mufflers-alone setup. While the mufflers-alone pipes can mount the OEM heat shields, she admitted to some users having had fitment issues in the past with the stock y-pipe, so moving forward they are going to just produce the Y-pipe + Mufflers setup.

I didn't care to retain my stock heat-shields and figured that if someone wanted to buy my used OEM pipes, they'd want the heat-shields anyways. Also, aesthetically speaking, I prefer the more consistent look of the stainless Delkevic Y-pipe paired to the mufflers. And the slight weight savings of course.
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post #114 of 223 Old 01-26-2018, 10:05 AM
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I'll also mention that a single Y pipe linking both mufflers is more solid that a separate dual link pipe system. Possibly has better internal gas flow as well being smoother throughout. The Y link pipe is also stainless.

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post #115 of 223 Old 01-26-2018, 10:36 AM
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That makes sense! I'm really on the fence about undoing the rear shock to get that Y pipe out, but it does look better with the Delkevic Y pipe.

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post #116 of 223 Old 01-26-2018, 05:03 PM
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ahung12,

Life through us a curve ball this week but we are recovering. Meanwhile back on the winter build and junk yard parts.... OK don't laugh, I told you it had been many years since I had a porting tool in my hands, well it been just as long since I tried to weld anything. Tig welding is an art that requires consistent practice, patience, and skill. So this leaves me completely out. But anyway just about done with the cat bypass. Just one more piece in the puzzle.
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File Type: jpg Cat bypass tube.jpg (60.4 KB, 47 views)
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post #117 of 223 Old 01-26-2018, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Dumb question here: did all 919's come with a cat? I don't think mine has one, but then again I'm looking for a bike-sized version of what I'm used to seeing on cars.

I'm the same way, but I'm also lacking the cojones to do my own fab work! So I just shell out way too much money to buy the fine work of others

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post #118 of 223 Old 01-27-2018, 11:28 AM
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I think the 02 through 04 (or maybe 05's) did not have cats. The newer bikes did. However, even the early models had the bulged pipe to accommodate the cat, but Honda had a through pipe welded internally that by-passed the cat. That is what I was told, but don't hold me to it.

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post #119 of 223 Old 01-27-2018, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Gotcha thanks.

Went out for a proper ride today, just to make sure the cans don't fall off or my blinkers catch fire. The engine bucks like mad if I close the throttle in any gear at lower RPM's, such as when I'm coming to a stop and running down through the gears. Even just gently rolling off will cause the bucking. Looks like I'm saving for the PC3 and a tune instead of the Shorai.
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post #120 of 223 Old 01-27-2018, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahung12 View Post
Gotcha thanks.

Went out for a proper ride today, just to make sure the cans don't fall off or my blinkers catch fire. The engine bucks like mad if I close the throttle in any gear at lower RPM's, such as when I'm coming to a stop and running down through the gears. Even just gently rolling off will cause the bucking. Looks like I'm saving for the PC3 and a tune instead of the Shorai.
I had the exact same thing happen when I changed pipes. Power commander fixed all of that. Smoothed out the throttle real nice. No more bucking at low speed/low rpm. No more snatchy off throttle at high rpm when cruising. Smooth even throttle and no more lean backfire on deceleration.
I will add a starter valve synchronization also played a part in smoothing out how the bike ran at low rpm.
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