2017-2018 Winter Build Thread - Page 2 - Wrist Twisters
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post #41 of 223 Old 12-29-2017, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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I will be going the Shorai lithium route. I wanted to stick with Ballistic because they are SO DAMN LIGHT!! but the Shorai is only about a pound heavier, and at least it'll fit.

Saving up my pennies for a nice pair of rearsets now, rather than hack up the stock ones. I don't think I will spring for Sato's but after seeing some not-so-great reviews of Dan Moto rearsets and ebay ones, I'm not sure I want those either. Might go middle ground with some of those WR's Rearsets. Has anyone here used those yet?
https://www.maxmcdirect.com/proddeta...od=DA045WS1903


G&J Lines came in. I went with the "smoke" color scheme as they told me it looked kind of like CF which I thought would compliment the side panels and exhaust. Looks great in person. Hopefully they don't fade over time though. About 10oz, and I'm guessing these are actually heavier than stock right since its SS vs rubber?



Hope the photos work. Imgur can't upload photos all of a sudden.

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post #42 of 223 Old 12-30-2017, 05:08 PM
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Swap out all your nasty zinc coated bolts for titanium ones. Half the weight, don't corrode. I'm doing this.

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post #43 of 223 Old 12-30-2017, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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That sounds involved. Which bolts and where are you finding the Ti replacements?

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post #44 of 223 Old 12-30-2017, 07:38 PM
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I've replaced the crankcase cover bolts, both sides, with titanium ones. Similar to the ones in this link
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142536558650
, although mine are normal allen key heads not cone. These would be the lightest. I ran a cushion washer underneath the head. You can also get titanium flange head bolts, nice but expensive. Look for M6◊30mm.
I've replaced the front axle clamp bolts with titanium ones. I've got some front brake caliper mount bolts in titanium coming, I broke one off!!? cause I'm stupid. I'll get around to the rest eventually. Some will be in stainless. Mostly I do it cause all my zinc coated ones tarnish easily.
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post #45 of 223 Old 12-30-2017, 07:42 PM
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Here is an example of the titanium hex flange heads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162828666564

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post #46 of 223 Old 12-31-2017, 12:59 PM
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When I did the flapper mod I completely removed all related gear including the flapper valve attached to the air intake snorkel. I then fibreglassed over the hole in the snorkel. That little valve was heavy.
Later I made a new air intake using a spare snorkel I had lying around. It's lighter than the stock snorkel.
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post #47 of 223 Old 12-31-2017, 01:11 PM
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Looks similar to this one....

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post #48 of 223 Old 12-31-2017, 05:42 PM
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This is a pic of the intake mod that got me inspired. Some old dude did it. I really like that sprocket cover. I want one!
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post #49 of 223 Old 12-31-2017, 06:10 PM
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Didn't someone make an intake mod that was a PVC kinda thing pointing to the front like the Buell 1125R ?

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post #50 of 223 Old 01-07-2018, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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With many thanks to Bartsitarski, I finally got started on the exhaust swap. I am borrowing his support rig, and I picked up some ratchet tie downs.

Here's how she sits meow:


I first had it up by the seat hooks, but during a scary moment realized the hooks were bending under the weight and I quickly swapped over to the ends of the frame cross bar where the grab rail attaches. In hindsight, I might have just cranked down too hard when I had them on the seat hooks. Hope this is clear:


I don't have the proper tools to get the shock unbolted at the bottom so HD run tomorrow (YES!), so the hard part is yet to come. At least got the pipes unbolted and off. Looking at 17.2lbs for the pair:


Not sure if its due to the cold weather or the bike's low mileage (probably a combination of both), but bolts are coming out nice and easy. The Y-pipe slipped off the header super easily. On second thought, its probably because I had "Come Undone" by Duran Duran stuck in my head while I was doing this.

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post #51 of 223 Old 01-07-2018, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahung12 View Post
With many thanks to Bartsitarski, I finally got started on the exhaust swap. I am borrowing his support rig, and I picked up some ratchet tie downs.

Here's how she sits meow:


I first had it up by the seat hooks, but during a scary moment realized the hooks were bending under the weight and I quickly swapped over to the ends of the frame cross bar where the grab rail attaches. In hindsight, I might have just cranked down too hard when I had them on the seat hooks. Hope this is clear:


I don't have the proper tools to get the shock unbolted at the bottom so HD run tomorrow (YES!), so the hard part is yet to come. At least got the pipes unbolted and off. Looking at 17.2lbs for the pair:


Not sure if its due to the cold weather or the bike's low mileage (probably a combination of both), but bolts are coming out nice and easy. The Y-pipe slipped off the header super easily. On second thought, its probably because I had "Come Undone" by Duran Duran stuck in my head while I was doing this.


Nice work! Itís crazy how heavy the stock cans are.


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post #52 of 223 Old 01-07-2018, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Seriously what was the reasoning behind making them so damn heavy? Cannot wait to see how it's going to feel with the weight drop. I can only imagine its even better with the exhaust down low though.

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post #53 of 223 Old 01-07-2018, 04:55 PM
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Seriously what was the reasoning behind making them so damn heavy? Cannot wait to see how it's going to feel with the weight drop. I can only imagine its even better with the exhaust down low though.


Give the aftermarket a sales boost? LOL


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post #54 of 223 Old 01-08-2018, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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So, I was one of those who had to go the whole nine yards to get the Y-pipe out. Chain guard/rear tire hugger disconnected, the entire rear shock removed along with the remote reservoir, rear end jacked as high as my hydraulic jack would take it (then suspended on the straps of course). And it was STILL a pain to get out.

At least the installation was fairly easy. No complaints with the Delkevic installation or packaging, they even included some high-temp silicon exhaust sealant. UNF, I'm in love with the look and sound even though I only started her up and did some idle revs in the garage. Baffles are out, I don't think they're going back in

Delkevic included some extension brackets to mount the exhaust hangers. Minimal tweaking needed to get them lined up perfectly.


Buttoned up:


Side note: those bent seat hooks (that I unbent as far as I had the balls to do it for fear of snapping them) have a great, unexpected result. The seat goes on just a little tighter, but when I release the seat now, it pops up nicely and is a piece of cake to take off now. Before I'd hit the release and there'd just be a click/clunk, no movement in the seat and there'd be some jiggling involved to get it off.

Here's that garage startup and idle rev:
https://youtu.be/86FGSbWuRrU
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post #55 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 08:36 AM
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I think in another thread I asked you how you did this :P

I really like the mesh cover look. Definitely putting it on my to do list.
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Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
When I did the flapper mod I completely removed all related gear including the flapper valve attached to the air intake snorkel. I then fibreglassed over the hole in the snorkel. That little valve was heavy.
Later I made a new air intake using a spare snorkel I had lying around. It's lighter than the stock snorkel.
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post #56 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ahung12 View Post
So, I was one of those who had to go the whole nine yards to get the Y-pipe out. Chain guard/rear tire hugger disconnected, the entire rear shock removed along with the remote reservoir, rear end jacked as high as my hydraulic jack would take it (then suspended on the straps of course). And it was STILL a pain to get out.

At least the installation was fairly easy. No complaints with the Delkevic installation or packaging, they even included some high-temp silicon exhaust sealant. UNF, I'm in love with the look and sound even though I only started her up and did some idle revs in the garage. Baffles are out, I don't think they're going back in

Delkevic included some extension brackets to mount the exhaust hangers. Minimal tweaking needed to get them lined up perfectly.


Buttoned up:


Side note: those bent seat hooks (that I unbent as far as I had the balls to do it for fear of snapping them) have a great, unexpected result. The seat goes on just a little tighter, but when I release the seat now, it pops up nicely and is a piece of cake to take off now. Before I'd hit the release and there'd just be a click/clunk, no movement in the seat and there'd be some jiggling involved to get it off.

Here's that garage startup and idle rev:
https://youtu.be/86FGSbWuRrU
I did this exact set up in stainless with the Y-pipe as well. Really love the sound even though its a pain to install the baffles if you want them. I put them in for only one ride and pulled them right back out- I lost midrange power for sure. I find the Yoshi map to be the best combo. Also a side note be sure you space where the loop bracket comes together or you will get this result (see last photo) after a few hundred miles and a bumpy road. I like them so much I used them on my turbo bike.
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post #57 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 10:24 AM
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Yep I love my Delks too. Look great, sound awesome, excellent build.
I also had great results with the Yoshi map. Best map for Delkevic's.
Nice work ahung12.
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post #58 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 10:37 AM
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[QUOTE=ewmin3m;1322033]I think in another thread I asked you how you did this :P

I really like the mesh cover look. Definitely putting it on my to do list.

It does look cool!
Get yourself a secondhand snorkel. That way you can take it back to stock if you want. It doesn't matter if it's faded and scratched since you chop it in half. I'll walk you through the mod if you like when you get one. I had fun making it and enjoy the look. With a K&N filter it makes cool suckey intake sounds!
If you really struggle I've got a spare snorkel that I might let go.

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post #59 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Nealio: Thanks for the heads up! I was debating whether or not to put the extension bracket between the hangar loops or outside and ended up with them outside. Will go and put them in between later.

Islandboy: No Power Commander but I suppose I may go out and get one at some point. How was it without the map, still workable I assume?
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post #60 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 01:33 PM
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Bike with delks ran fine without power commander. I got my pc111usb after the exhaust.
The power commander really smoothed out my throttle. No more "snatchy" or off/on feeling.
I carried out a starter valve synchronization to smooth out idle and low revs.
I highly recommend both.
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post #61 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 03:22 PM
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I've PMed you.
[quote=Islandboy;1322065]
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Originally Posted by ewmin3m View Post
I think in another thread I asked you how you did this :P

I really like the mesh cover look. Definitely putting it on my to do list.

It does look cool!
Get yourself a secondhand snorkel. That way you can take it back to stock if you want. It doesn't matter if it's faded and scratched since you chop it in half. I'll walk you through the mod if you like when you get one. I had fun making it and enjoy the look. With a K&N filter it makes cool suckey intake sounds!
If you really struggle I've got a spare snorkel that I might let go.

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post #62 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 05:15 PM
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Picture of my old snorkel!
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post #63 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Shot in the dark here: Anyone have any idea what the stock headlight and gauge cluster assembly weighs? Bartsitarski after seeing the gauge on your bike it got me thinking that I've not been thrilled with how bulky the front end looks, and wondering if cleaning it up with a more simple cluster might have the added effect of dropping a few lbs up high. That got me thinking about the headlight too.

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post #64 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
Bike with delks ran fine without power commander. I got my pc111usb after the exhaust.
The power commander really smoothed out my throttle. No more "snatchy" or off/on feeling.
I carried out a starter valve synchronization to smooth out idle and low revs.
I highly recommend both.
Did you also do the flapper mod? If so, was it before or after the PC3? I'm thinking of knocking out the flapper mod this weekend as I'm tweaking the exhaust as I'm looking forward to the claims of smoothing out the low-rpm performance. I'm curious if a properly mapped PC3 takes is affected by the presence or lack of the flapper.

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post #65 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 07:24 PM
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I'm curious if a properly mapped PC3 takes is affected by the presence or lack of the flapper.
Based on my personal experience, the flapper has no effect upon the sensitivity to mapping.
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post #66 of 223 Old 01-09-2018, 11:07 PM
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The flapper mod was one of the first things I did to my bike. Well before I got a power commander.
I wanted no part of that restriction in my bikes air intake.
I completely removed it and fibreglassed the hole over. I painted the whole thing just to tidy it up.
The power commander is a great tool and you would do well to get one.
Now you have changed exhaust systems, really opened it up, be good to tweak the fueling to suit. I've changed end cans several times on my 919 and each time the fueling has been off and benefited with remapping. With a laptop and a close map as a starting point you can get excellent results. Good fun too!
And you can get your bike tuned and mapped by an expert on proper gear.
My bike used to pulse heavily at idle, buck and chug at low throttle/low revs and throttle felt snatchy and very on/off when cruising. Also felt it was lacking a bit here and there. The power commander and a good starter valve synchronization fixed all this. The bike idles low and steady. I can crawl away no throttle just clutch. Lug along smoothly in first and second with very little throttle. Bike pulls hard all the way. Throttle response is smooth at all positions.
I've done everything I can to mess things up. Cheap chinese end pipes you can stick a beer can up, hacked up air intake snorkel, shithouse K&N filter.
But bike is smooth as silk when just stroked gently and runs like a raped ape when poked hard.
I see secondhand power commanders on this site from time to time.
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post #67 of 223 Old 01-10-2018, 08:57 AM
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Ok so what's what xD

Is the left part just a chopped up version of the stock right thing?

And the stock being the number 6 in the pic attached ?
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Picture of my old snorkel!
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post #68 of 223 Old 01-10-2018, 12:19 PM
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Yep that's it. And yes it's chopped down. They will split in half length ways.

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post #69 of 223 Old 01-10-2018, 03:01 PM
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Lets not forget about the PC3 diode shunt mod for cold start remedy. I want to try and push that as much as possible as I have now don it on 3 other 919's with great success. New members may not know about it when deciding to install the PC3. Anyone have the link?

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post #70 of 223 Old 01-10-2018, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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What exactly does it accomplish?

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post #71 of 223 Old 01-10-2018, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ahung12 View Post
Shot in the dark here: Anyone have any idea what the stock headlight and gauge cluster assembly weighs? Bartsitarski after seeing the gauge on your bike it got me thinking that I've not been thrilled with how bulky the front end looks, and wondering if cleaning it up with a more simple cluster might have the added effect of dropping a few lbs up high. That got me thinking about the headlight too.


You would not be saving any significant weight. The cluster is pretty light. Itís all plastic. Heading housing too. And by the time clamp on all new parts you net zero. Maybe save a couple ounces but not enough to justify the effort. If you do it, do it for form not weight management function. I did it purely for looks.


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post #72 of 223 Old 01-11-2018, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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You would not be saving any significant weight. The cluster is pretty light. Itís all plastic. Heading housing too. And by the time clamp on all new parts you net zero. Maybe save a couple ounces but not enough to justify the effort. If you do it, do it for form not weight management function. I did it purely for looks.


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I might do it just for the looks too then. I mean the stock cluster isn't hideous and I like the analog gauges, but I'd like it to be a little lower profile without having to throw a windscreen on the front.
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post #73 of 223 Old 01-11-2018, 09:05 AM
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Sent you another PM :P
Quote:
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Yep that's it. And yes it's chopped down. They will split in half length ways.

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post #74 of 223 Old 01-11-2018, 02:52 PM
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Lets not forget about the PC3 diode shunt mod for cold start remedy. I want to try and push that as much as possible as I have now don it on 3 other 919's with great success. New members may not know about it when deciding to install the PC3. Anyone have the link?
Cold start update thread.

https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums/...ad.php?t=66018

The diode shunt fix has been added to the Dropbox as well.

Three other 919's cold starts fixed! Well done Nealio.
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post #75 of 223 Old 01-12-2018, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Cold start update thread.

cold start update - Wrist Twisters

The diode shunt fix has been added to the Dropbox as well.

Three other 919's cold starts fixed! Well done Nealio.
There is some vitriol in that thread.
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post #76 of 223 Old 01-16-2018, 08:12 PM
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I wonder, exactly how much weight can you really shave off the 919, and how does that affect the weight balance front to rear?

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post #77 of 223 Old 01-17-2018, 12:59 PM
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I wonder, exactly how much weight can you really shave off the 919, and how does that affect the weight balance front to rear?
Just don't eat that extra burger on track day LOL.... Problem solved.
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post #78 of 223 Old 01-17-2018, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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I wonder, exactly how much weight can you really shave off the 919, and how does that affect the weight balance front to rear?
Well with what I'm doing, I'm only looking at a 17lbs weight savings and not 27lbs as I originally thought. That's all coming from the stock exhaust, where I over-estimated the weight initially. But I'm only doing what I think is reasonable, and not cutting the frame, changing the wheels or going to a SSA. Even if you go bananas though, I don't see how you could cut any more than 50lbs and still call it a 919.

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post #79 of 223 Old 01-17-2018, 05:07 PM
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You are doing a great job documenting your changes. I may have over looked it but did you replace your entire exhaust system with the Delkevic? If so what was the differences including weight? And do you still have the part number for the pipe?

Thanks

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post #80 of 223 Old 01-17-2018, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mark61 View Post
You are doing a great job documenting your changes. I may have over looked it but did you replace your entire exhaust system with the Delkevic? If so what was the differences including weight? And do you still have the part number for the pipe?

Thanks
Thanks! The Delkevic system is specific to the 919 (product# KIT03AC) for which they only make header-back systems, so I retained the stock headers. Theirs replaces the Y-pipe and all the way back from there.

-Stock Mufflers w/ heat shields and bolts: 8.6lbs each side (17.2lbs total)
-Delkevic Mufflers w/ mounting bracket and clamps: 3.164lbs each side (6.328lbs total)

-Stock Y-pipe: ~2lbs give or take a few ounces. had a hard time getting it stable on the scale.
-Delkvic Y-Pipe: 3.678lbs

So total savings for the exhaust was just about 9lbs.

Al
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