Rear tire size - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-31-2006, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
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Rear tire size

On 600cc bikes, it comes stock with a rear tire size of 180/..... and on a 1000cc bike, they come stock with 190/.....

Now the question is, some of the guys that I ride with will swap out the rear tire on their litre bike for a 180 rear tire, they swear it turns in better. Since I have no real experience with this, is there any truth to this as I've already talked to the dealership about swapping the rear tire out before picking the R1 up.

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post #2 of 9 Old 01-31-2006, 03:07 PM
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The 600cc bikes have 5.5 inch rims, which fit 180 tires. Liters have 6inch rims and fit on 190 tires.

The 190 on most, if not all liter bikes is a 50 series tire and less 'pointy' than the 180 which is a 55 series tire.

When you take a 180 and put it on a 6 inch rim, it stretchs it out a little to fit it. It still a little more 'pointy' than a 190/50 so yes, the turn it will quicken on some. The downside is that you have less of a contact patch when you are leaning it the corner pretty good.

Alot of tire manufactures made a 190/55 tire as a solution to this. You get all your pointiness you want and still get your fat contact patch.

Pointy is a funny word.

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-31-2006, 05:38 PM
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I know guys that do choose the 180 on a liter bike, but I preffered the 190 on my old 929 myself. It's personal preferrence I guess.

 
post #4 of 9 Old 03-10-2006, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheeltours
I know guys that do choose the 180 on a liter bike, but I preffered the 190 on my old 929 myself. It's personal preferrence I guess.

Funny... now that I have tried both a 180/55 and a 190/50, I would stick with the 180/55.

It was more predictable for me, even at extreme lean angles, I could usually catch a slide or potential low side in time to save it.

With the 190/50, I have the front end sliding out on me at lean angles. I am still working on my suspension settings - either have to raise the rear a bit to compensate for the loss of 5 millimetres or so, or soften the front end or lower it. Not sure yet.

I am also going to try a 190/55 - as soon as I can spare the change for it.

wim.

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-10-2006, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIM-RC51
Funny... now that I have tried both a 180/55 and a 190/50, I would stick with the 180/55.

It was more predictable for me, even at extreme lean angles, I could usually catch a slide or potential low side in time to save it.

With the 190/50, I have the front end sliding out on me at lean angles. I am still working on my suspension settings - either have to raise the rear a bit to compensate for the loss of 5 millimetres or so, or soften the front end or lower it. Not sure yet.

I am also going to try a 190/55 - as soon as I can spare the change for it.

wim.
Oh geez, don't start with that whole 5mm thing again.

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post #6 of 9 Old 03-13-2006, 07:53 AM
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I've had to make adjustments of a lot less than 5mm before to get the bike to handle properly...

Chassis geometry is critical on these current bikes. Once you find the magic numbers that allow you to stay leaned over through the turn without putting pressure on the bars, keep the bike from trying to stand up on the brakes & not run wide on exit then it's like crack! You will want your bike to feel that way everytime you throw a leg over it, but different brand/size tires will mess up that geometry as will sag numbers & even different tracks with elevation changes etc...

Sometimes it takes a little work to get it right, but man once you have it & the bike does exactly like it is supposed to then it is just heavenly to ride.

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post #7 of 9 Old 03-13-2006, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Duckhunter
I've had to make adjustments of a lot less than 5mm before to get the bike to handle properly...

Chassis geometry is critical on these current bikes. Once you find the magic numbers that allow you to stay leaned over through the turn without putting pressure on the bars, keep the bike from trying to stand up on the brakes & not run wide on exit then it's like crack! You will want your bike to feel that way everytime you throw a leg over it, but different brand/size tires will mess up that geometry as will sag numbers & even different tracks with elevation changes etc...

Sometimes it takes a little work to get it right, but man once you have it & the bike does exactly like it is supposed to then it is just heavenly to ride.

I am with you on that LDH, and I tell, it is quite an art and science to learn. I am no was close to be a knowledgeable person on suspension yet, but the fact that I can even talk this semi-intelligently about it a tribute to to people like you, your knowledge and sites like this. In the past, I would have been left in the dark ages about this kinda thing.

On the point of finding the sweet spot, I TOTALLY agree. I got the bike to that point, and then stupid me changed the tires. When you have the bike dialed in right, you not only ride better - but it also helps you anticipate the bike. Like I knew something was wrong on the rear end before I even got to check the tire for wear. I could tell because the bike started giving me signs of stepping out of it's normal parameters - and it helped me save what could have been a nasty low side.

Wish I was in Memphis, I would ride over to your place LDH and steal that RC filled brain of your's!


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post #8 of 9 Old 03-16-2006, 10:02 PM
 
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Sometimes it takes a little work to get it right, but man once you have it & the bike does exactly like it is supposed to then it is just heavenly to ride.


Same thing about my girlfriend...

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post #9 of 9 Old 03-16-2006, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motohead

Same thing about my girlfriend...
I know

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