Geometry changes/Steering dampers - Wrist Twisters
View Poll Results: Geometry changes/Steering dampers
Damper required 4 36.36%
Damper recommended 4 36.36%
Not necessary 3 27.27%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Geometry changes/Steering dampers

My 600RR has stock suspension front and rear. I'm thinking about raising the forks 5mm. My question is how many of you guys would recommend a steering damper on a 5mm change in geometry.


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post #2 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 07:36 AM
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Not knowing what year your 600RR is but if it is 03 through 06 the trail is 95 mm (3.7"). Bumping the forks 5 mm should not be a problem. My 99 R6 was another story, 87 mm stock plus I bumped the forks another 10 mm when I went from a 60 to a 70 profile front tire. A Ohlins top mount was mandatory.

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post #3 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 07:47 AM
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I don't know much about the geometry change, but when I added the GPR, I felt a noticeable difference in the bike. It felt more stable than previously. It was for this reason that I voted recommended. Why the change in fork height?

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post #4 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys. It's an 04.

Ridge, It's just something I've been thinking about. I used to ride a FZR years ago so I was used to the "twitchy" handling, as some people refer to them. This is my first Honda so the handling is a little different. Very stable and planted but you're also giving up turn-in. So I wanted to move the geometry to increase my turn-in. But I didn't want to give up too much high speed stability that I ran into problems at 150mph down the back straight away.


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post #5 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 12:28 PM
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Any parts grinding already? Dropping the nose means less ground clearance. Adding ride height to the rear is less negative (eventually you'd tuck the front or spin the rear but that takes some effort).

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danke
Any parts grinding already? Dropping the nose means less ground clearance. Adding ride height to the rear is less negative (eventually you'd tuck the front or spin the rear but that takes some effort).
Well the stock shock is not adjustable otherwise I would have simply raised the rear. A 5mm drop on the front still gives plenty of clearance. Even a 10mm drop wouldn't scrub anything.


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post #7 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 01:24 PM
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If it were my bike, I'd have a damper on it after the change. YMMV, but that's my take.

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post #8 of 13 Old 06-07-2006, 01:43 PM
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I ran my RC for a season after a geometry change and while it became lively it never shook. I did put on a damper and wind on more ride height this year.

One popular think on the RC was a thick between the frame and upper shock mount. Moriwaki even made one that used a series of stacked U-shims so you could fine tune the feel. Factory bikes had a beauty of a thumbwheel that sat on top of the shocks to adjust in a flash in the pits.

The only other thing to watch out for when moving forks is most will have a safety clip in there that prevents the stanchions from moving up in the clamps if a bolt comes loose.

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post #9 of 13 Old 06-12-2006, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Well I raised the forks 5mm yesterday and went out for a short run before it got nasty. So far it's exactly what I was looking for. I didn't have a whole lot of time to get a true feel for it but the turn in seems a little crisper now. I'll see how it feels on the 24-25th at Jennings.

I also have a stock 05 model shock with about 2k miles on it coming. Now if I could just figure out a way to adjust ride height on the stocker I'd be set for a little while.


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post #10 of 13 Old 06-12-2006, 10:13 AM
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I think the RR is pretty stable chassis all together. I use a damper but very, very rarely have any head shake. Elevation changes and rough track conditions and I would put one on automatically.

I'd say, for the prices we can get these from a vendor, you should just put a GPR on and call it a day. Especially if your at the track a lot.

You never know!

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post #11 of 13 Old 06-12-2006, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayrock
I think the RR is pretty stable chassis all together. I use a damper but very, very rarely have any head shake. Elevation changes and rough track conditions and I would put one on automatically.

I'd say, for the prices we can get these from a vendor, you should just put a GPR on and call it a day. Especially if your at the track a lot.

You never know!
I was looking at GPR's last night as a matter of fact. I'll mount one before I hit Barbers up in October. Jennings is flat as a pancake.


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post #12 of 13 Old 06-12-2006, 12:54 PM
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Barbers got some rippling in the pavement coming up and out of turn 5 (I think it's 5 or 6) and you may get some repetative wobble out of there.

I've only been there once and it could have been me though...

Check with the RR guys and I'm pretty sure you can get one rather cheap. And make sure you get the red one. It's got the best damping characteristics.

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post #13 of 13 Old 06-15-2006, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewRedRider
I was looking at GPR's last night as a matter of fact. I'll mount one before I hit Barbers up in October. Jennings is flat as a pancake.
I used to get headshake going down between T2 and T3 at Jennings after I built my motor. I guess the extra 15 or so ponies made a difference. It's always a safe bet, plus as you push the bike harder and harder it's more likely to fight you.

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