Since getting the new bike, the honda really doesn't serve much purpose to me outside of being a learning tool. It's a great commuter because of the turning radius and the motor is a cuddly puppy, but I like my modern amenities. I don't want to sell it because it's my first bike and all, so I'm committed to turning it into a track bike over the winter, assuming I don't total it before the end of the season. There's some mods I have planned, and perhaps a few others can chime in. Pictures will follow
On my to-do list:
Rear-sets: For the rearsets, I'm not sure there's really anything available anymore than the sato's, but golly at 550 bucks are they expensive.
Make your own. With a half inch thick plate of 6061-T651 and some elbow grease (along with a hacksaw, drill, a hole saw, files and some creativity) combined with aftermarket folding footpegs, a machined post for the stock brake pedal, and a threaded hole for the stock shifter you can have a strong set of rearsets for ~$50. I've done similar brackets for dozens of bikes.
Master cylinder: Not sure which size on the master to go with, but the stock coffin isn't giving me enough, even with the c59 pads, good fluid and rotors. After pushing on a 20 minute session, my right hand is tired just from squashing the lever.
Go with a radial master cylinder from most any year CBR1000. It brings the overall leverage ratio from 120:1 stock to 132:1, a ten percent reduction in effort, MUCH BETTER feedback compared to the wooden feel of the stock setup, and holding the brakes right on the edge of locking without overshooting into crashing is a breeze: very important when trail braking into a corner! Also, braided stainless steel brake lines are a must! The best price I have found is from G&J Aircraft and Surplus. A thread on them: https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...nes-10307.html
Last I heard a full set costs ~$75, and in the last forty years of using their lines on literally hundreds of bikes I have not had one failure that was not caused by inept installation or misrouting.
The handlebars are weird. I don't like the wild wrist position I get trying to manipulate the throttle around right turns. I'd remove the bar ends so I could just grip the throttle from the outside, but the big bar ends actually help keep the tank off the ground when it goes down. If I get the rearsets, I wont have to hang off as far and that helps a lot with the angle I get on my wrist. We'll see.
Shameless plug. TharBars are still available, and they can be set up for the track easily.
A photo of my preferred setup:
919 present handlebar setup.jpg
23.25 inches to the ends of the grips, which is narrower than typical clipons. Notice the master cylinder, well what little you can see of it. FYI: the clear hose from the reservoir was there for experimenting with height of the reservoir by introducing a small air bubble into the line to observe fluid flow. It has since been replaced with a more suitable line / fitting.