really , you have to be kidding - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-04-2011, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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really , you have to be kidding

So today i installed a new battery and spark plugs , some crazy ass engineer decided this shouldn't be an easy task , i mean how the hell did you figure to place that spark plug just out of reach of everything !!!!.
Took 40 min and 2 trips to Auto Zone to get pivoting socket adapters and other crap just to get that stinking thing changed

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post #2 of 14 Old 04-04-2011, 07:39 PM
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lol sounds like someone hit number 3 plug and went WTFBBQ!!!!!

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post #3 of 14 Old 04-04-2011, 10:31 PM
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next time get one of those 30mm metal hole-saws and bore a hole right through the frame from the top............... problem fixed.

Be sure to post and let me know how this works out as you could consider it a performance mod too as it will reduce the bikes weight.

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post #4 of 14 Old 04-04-2011, 11:57 PM
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not just me then...

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post #5 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 03:58 AM
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No, not exactly; this zombie seems to rise from the dead each spring or so. . .

https://www.wristtwisters.com/f289/st...3-a-23481.html

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post #6 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 05:35 AM
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Although I've never changed my plugs (20K miles, still seems to run great) other WT'rs say the factory supplied plug socket in the tool kit works well. While we're on the subject, why do the plugs in my car last 100,000 and I read about guys changing their motorcycle plugs every year? Am I unaware of a performance loss with my original plugs or do people just change them because they can?

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post #7 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relic11 View Post
....or do people just change them because they can?
That's why I did it.

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post #8 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 08:08 AM
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I changed mine once because they fouled. Found out the previous owner left a fuel line clamp on the return line so it was running RICH!

Use the factory plug tool and it will be super simple.

Press Any Key To Continue.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 09:07 AM
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I went ahead and changed mine when I did the PAIRS plates. I already had the tank off and everything was in reach. So why not go ahead and do it? I had about 19k on mine, so I figured it couldn't hurt to go ahead and change them

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post #10 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 09:12 AM
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I never had any problems.

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post #11 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 01:04 PM
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used the factory plug tool w/ little problems (i believe I came in from the passenger-side of the bike). I changed the plugs at 19,000. Didn't notice any performance gains. Just purchased the bike and felt like throwing some money at it. Probably wont change 'em ever again.

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post #12 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 01:10 PM
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Tool kit comes with a socket that fitss just fine.

Just wait untill the first time you try and remove the valve cover. Remove coil packs first and it will save you untold time and cussing.

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post #13 of 14 Old 04-05-2011, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
next time get one of those 30mm metal hole-saws and bore a hole right through the frame from the top............... problem fixed.

Be sure to post and let me know how this works out as you could consider it a performance mod too as it will reduce the bikes weight.
Ha ha , i'm not willing to go that far but my knuckles are officially retarded now.

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post #14 of 14 Old 04-10-2011, 07:33 PM
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Swivel joint for your socket makes life a lot easier. It's really not that bad, try working on a BMW sometime.

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