Ohlins for 2up/ more upgrades - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Ohlins for 2up/ more upgrades

I recently bought the Ohlins H201 rear shock but haven't been able to install it. I went for a 6-7 hr long day yesterday through mt twisties, and the only real complaint was having to wear earplugs for the first time with my satos and getting some wobble while turning hard (which i think is my lack of skills). Either way i rode fast all over the place and was overly happy with my ride. I don't have the money/time, nor do I plan on upgrading the front forks any time soon, and with my desire for powdercoating levers handlebars and luggage, I'm wondering if I should part ways with the Ohlins since there are no track plans in the near or far future. I also plan on doing a fair amount of 2 up riding so I feel like the stock shock may be better with its large weight capacity... Any thoughts?

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post #2 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 05:48 AM
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I shred it on the stock suspension. I wish like hell that I had a better set-up, though. Maybe you should let it go before you find out exactly how much better it is than stock...

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post #3 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redletter View Post
I recently bought the Ohlins H201 rear shock but haven't been able to install it.
I'm wondering if I should part ways with the Ohlins since there are no track plans in the near or far future. I also plan on doing a fair amount of 2 up riding so I feel like the stock shock may be better with its large weight capacity... Any thoughts?
I have the Ohlin's rear that I bought used. I'd seriously consider buying yours! Night and day better than Stock.

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post #4 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 06:53 AM
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One of the things that is attractive about the Ohlins is the remote preload. For two-up riding it will make for quick adjustments for better performance when a passenger is on board.

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post #5 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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So 2up is not impossible on a 190lb sprung spring, its so much better my back and ass will notice everyday riding, and i wont necessarily have to upgrade my forks to enjoy the benefits?

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post #6 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 08:00 AM
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redletter, you already have the shock, might as well install it and see if you like it. takes maybe 5 minutes to install the rear shock. at least TRY it before you decide to get rid of it.

either way, UPGRADE YOU FRONT SPRINGS! riding with that much brake dive is very dangerous, more so when you're riding 2 up. upgraded front springs are only $150 total and is money well spent. do both of them!

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post #7 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
redletter, you already have the shock, might as well install it and see if you like it. takes maybe 5 minutes to install the rear shock. at least TRY it before you decide to get rid of it.

either way, UPGRADE YOU FRONT SPRINGS! riding with that much brake dive is very dangerous, more so when you're riding 2 up. upgraded front springs are only $150 total and is money well spent. do both of them!
Ifk if that 5 min is literal, but if it is how did you do that?

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post #8 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 09:17 AM
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The Ohlins shock will change your mind once you install it. Solo or two up, it's a huge improvement. And as stated above, once you ride with it you'll want to change your fork springs. I have the shock and have not had time to change the fork springs yet, I have the parts and will do it over the winter.

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post #9 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redletter View Post
Ifk if that 5 min is literal, but if it is how did you do that?
5 min. is a little off, one hour at most, taking your time. You'll have to cut out the under tail a bit for the remote can and I had to lift the bike a bit once I had the bottom shock blot out(might not have to if you remove the shovel)

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post #10 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
5 min. is a little off, one hour at most, taking your time. You'll have to cut out the under tail a bit for the remote can and I had to lift the bike a bit once I had the bottom shock blot out(might not have to if you remove the shovel)
Ok so going into this project what tools should i go get (to cut the tail). Just to clarify, is it the painted plastic rear tail that im cutting or is it a metal part of the frame I'd have to grind down?

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post #11 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 11:44 AM
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Not 5 minutes by any stretch of the imagination. I assume he was exaggerating. It's not hard though. I had to disconnect my shock for an exhaust change and used an A-frame ladder with ratcheting straps to support the rear. It is the light end.

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post #12 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
5 min. is a little off, one hour at most, taking your time. You'll have to cut out the under tail a bit for the remote can and I had to lift the bike a bit once I had the bottom shock blot out(might not have to if you remove the shovel)
45 min to 1 hour
Attacked at a between race pace it could be done in even less, say 30 minutes if well organized and a good mechanic.
No need to remove rear wheel either.
I've had mine on and off an number of times, and the manual method takes way more time than is needed.
Get the bike blocked up.
Remove the rear hugger.
Remove the left hand footrest bracket and leave the gear linkage on it and swivel it out of the way.
Seat off.
Side cover off.
Remove the bolt that ties the front of the tail section to the frame, just the left side one.

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post #13 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 12:20 PM
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i guess i've done it so much that i've gotten it down to 5-10 minutes. it's really easy and as mcromo says you dont even have to take the rear wheel off. the rear hugger has to come off though for sure unless ur able to get the rear end up high enough that you drop the upper bolt first and then play with the angle to get the bottom one. at that point you'd just be wasting time.

i DID forget that you have to cut the tray for the ohlins so my bad.

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post #14 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 12:41 PM
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its going to take 16 hours......... you should just sell the shock to me

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post #15 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster View Post
i guess i've done it so much that i've gotten it down to 5-10 minutes. it's really easy and as mcromo says you dont even have to take the rear wheel off. the rear hugger has to come off though for sure unless ur able to get the rear end up high enough that you drop the upper bolt first and then play with the angle to get the bottom one. at that point you'd just be wasting time.

i DID forget that you have to cut the tray for the ohlins so my bad.
I hope you are not that fast at everything you do.

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post #16 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 04:16 PM
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me either mcromo... sad thing is some things i've done to the bike so much that i've got it to an art, i'd care not to do it again lol! like swapping gas tanks for example....

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post #17 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redletter View Post
Ok so going into this project what tools should i go get (to cut the tail). Just to clarify, is it the painted plastic rear tail that im cutting or is it a metal part of the frame I'd have to grind down?
The part you need to trim is the plastic undertail pan(proper term?) for the remote reservoir with the compression adjustment. Lower left corner of pic, can't really see what you need to trim though, I used a dremel tool. You need to make the opening a little wider and lower.
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post #18 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmb View Post
The part you need to trim is the plastic undertail pan(proper term?) for the remote reservoir with the compression adjustment. Lower left corner of pic, can't really see what you need to trim though, I used a dremel tool. You need to make the opening a little wider and lower.
I used a similar tool, as in an old fashioned high speed grinder with a cutter tool bit fitted. (the one I ported the head of my 73 750 with, but I digress)
Cleanup is much much easier if you green plastic bag around the area and have a shop vac running as you grind away.
Also.
Put some white masking tape on the surface to be relieved.
Mark out the revised circle diameter you are targeting.
Take an exacto knife and cut the masking tape along the line
Grind to the masking tape edge.
This way you will get a nice round edge that better matches the reservoir.

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post #19 of 57 Old 10-12-2011, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Put some white masking tape on the surface to be relieved.
Mark out the revised circle diameter you are targeting.
Take an exacto knife and cut the masking tape along the line
Grind to the masking tape edge.
This way you will get a nice round edge that better matches the reservoir.
Great tip, mine's a little cattywampus looking....

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post #20 of 57 Old 10-13-2011, 01:35 AM
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Ah a no-brainer - Ohlins or some power coating?

Put the shock on - you'll love it them upgrade the front end.

Job done, you'll be riding so much you won't have time to look at power coating.

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post #21 of 57 Old 10-13-2011, 05:20 AM
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For some reason I assumed that the 919 Ohlins reservoir was a direct fit and therefore did not require hacking up the undertail. Dang. Now I have to reconsider the Penske. I was about to place an order for the Ohlins. I like to know that I can return everything to stock if needed and putting the stock shock back on would presumable require a new undertail to avoid any gaping holes.

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post #22 of 57 Old 10-13-2011, 05:40 AM
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The grinding is minimal and returning to stock would just require swapping shocks. The Ohlins is an easy install. Although for me I had to place the remote adjuster at the rear brake reservoir because the line was too short to put it at the passenger peg. Anyway I'm happy with mine.

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post #23 of 57 Old 10-13-2011, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mambomonster View Post
For some reason I assumed that the 919 Ohlins reservoir was a direct fit and therefore did not require hacking up the undertail. Dang. Now I have to reconsider the Penske. I was about to place an order for the Ohlins. I like to know that I can return everything to stock if needed and putting the stock shock back on would presumable require a new undertail to avoid any gaping holes.
You only have to take a little material out for it to fit.

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post #24 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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At the shop getting it put on... Fingers crossed the are no issues

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post #25 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 11:54 AM
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Shouldn't be any...

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post #26 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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Update

Well, no problems with the install, the local HD shop installed it per the instructions and even modded the plastic to make it fit, while only charging 46 doll hairs. No complaints there.

Impressions. Well I'm relieved to say that I feel like I'm riding on a $800 cloud and I'm pretty impressed. I don't think I'll be selling it any time soon. I went straight from the install location to one of my favorite twisty back roads and I must say this thing really seems to straighten out the roads. Said road is also pretty bumpy in some spots, one corner, but mostly in the straightaways and across bridges. This suspension must take about 3/4 of the shock out of the bumps as well, because despite the ride my pulled lower back muscles did not hurt after getting off the bike like they have been lately. ONLY issue is..........It's not the right color.

On a side note, just got my PCIII in the mail, so that install is next on the list, hopefully that will get rid of the popping and semi sluggish throttle from my Satos. Now who to PM for drop box access/ a good CF Gen 2 Sato map?
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post #27 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 01:43 PM
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Good deal. Now if you'd been paying attention to the classifieds section yesterday you could have had a set of brake lines for $45 to replace those squishy rubber ones

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post #28 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 01:45 PM
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Told you you'd like it...

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post #29 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Ha, I saw them, but I'm putting the breaks on my money spending until I sell my couch this coming weekend... then its back to the drawing boards (ebay...)


Edit: Don't want anyone to feel like I need an intervention, we just got a new living room set, so these are the old couches . Someone come shoot me if I start selling my needed possessions for parts.

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post #30 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
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Now who to PM for drop box access/ a good CF Gen 2 Sato map?
Here you go, courtesy of g00gl3it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rb2wzm4lnxmbdon

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post #31 of 57 Old 10-17-2011, 10:22 PM
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Have you done the pair valve removal? That will stop the popping more than a new map will, although that will help.

I did the pair valve mod (removal) after putting my Sato's on, and it was 99% gone. PC3 took it all the way off.

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post #32 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Hmm i guess i could do that... Does the guy from the old threads still make them or are they just floating around

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post #33 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 08:19 AM
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1. You don't have to do the entire PAIR valve removal, you just need to remove the hoses & put a rubber cap on the hose nipples on top of the valve cover.

2. I sell PAIR valve covers all day long, it's not like they are hard to get...

3. See #1 above

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post #34 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
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Have you done the pair valve removal? That will stop the popping more than a new map will, although that will help.
In my book, that's a serious loss of music.

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post #35 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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I got my pcIII installed and its great, right now i have that simpson map with low=-1 mid=-1 high=-2. So far so good, restored the stock giddiup and smoothed out the entire pwr delivery(i think since i am a noob). It also seems to have cut out the bad sounding pops with only the light decel growling pops left.
I did the flapper mod and forgot to go back and properly cap the tube, since the plug i used had a small hole in it. Ill fix that blunder and see if that helps as well.

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post #36 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redletter View Post
I got my pcIII installed and its great, right now i have that simpson map with low=-1 mid=-1 high=-2. So far so good, restored the stock giddiup and smoothed out the entire pwr delivery(i think since i am a noob). It also seems to have cut out the bad sounding pops with only the light decel growling pops left.
I did the flapper mod and forgot to go back and properly cap the tube, since the plug i used had a small hole in it. Ill fix that blunder and see if that helps as well.
Are you saying that you used the buttons to adjust the mapping?

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post #37 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
Are you saying that you used the buttons to adjust the mapping?
Yeah, is that a bad thing... It appears to be working ok. Those were the settings reccommended on the PC3 map challenge thread. I read it after i installed the map and realized it was from 3-4 years ago but figured i would test it anyhew

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post #38 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 12:31 PM
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Well I personally tell people to NEVER EVER EVER touch the buttons...

By doing so you are basically defeating the purpose of having such a fine resolution in the tuning capability of the Powercommander.

Just as a side note: On the latest and greatest PC-V powercommander they did away with the buttons on the front altogether...

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post #39 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm well if it seems to be runnin ok should i leave it or reset the buttons and try the map in its original state

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post #40 of 57 Old 10-18-2011, 12:55 PM
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Just reload the map and the buttons will reset themselves.

if it's running fine then no big deal really, but when you use the buttons it makes a change across a very broad range of the table.

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