Is it a bad idea to replace just the front tire? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-28-2017, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
(Quintus) Pilus Prior
 
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Is it a bad idea to replace just the front tire?

I'm getting ready to get back on after several months off. I was getting some odd feedback from the front and I have a leak on one seal.

I'm getting ready to lift the front, replace the oil, seals and clean things up real good. I'm thinking this, plus a new front tire should really help out as the tire is pretty old.

I know that some say to replace in pairs only, but I'm running a bit of a tight budget for a while until a few other project pan out.

You might remember, that I had the bike up for sale, got no reasonable offers, made a deal to leverage one of my collector cars instead, so I'll be keeping the bike.

I need to get her stable on the cheap.

The front end seem to wander as if I were on a road with a lot of tar snakes, yet there were no tar snakes.

I really have no clue how to adjust the suspension, but it's clear the PO didn't do the seals and maybe the fork oil.

I figure clean the heck out of the fork valves and fresh oil and a new front tire should do the trick. I can replace the rear in a few months, just need to pay attention to the budget right now.

BTW, are we doing a tire sale thread this year?

I don't remember what tire was considered best, pilot seems to be popular. Any suggestions?

Mostly street, highway, around town, not very concerned about life span, more concerned with handling.

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 04:16 AM
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Pilot Road 4. But others may have different opinions. As for replacing just one, that's ok as long as the other is in good shape.


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post #3 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 04:27 AM
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I just replace them when they need it usually one at a time. The last time I happened to replace them both at the same time and wow that felt good.

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post #4 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 07:09 AM
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I replace the rear by itself all the time... Usually the second rear I go through I'll change the front too, but if I was only having problems with the front I don't see a huge issue with replacing just it.

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post #5 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 07:55 AM
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I can't figure a problem with it but I would check that your oil levels are the same. once you have rebuilt the problem fork put it together just short of tightening the top cap back on and then undo the other forks cap and measure the level in each. I know its not the way to measure how much oil you should put in but you can at least make sure they are even.


Side note anybody ever thread tapped shcreider valves into the fork caps? I think I am spelling that wrong.


Good luck


hydrolic fluid has the same properties as fork oil by the way. Took a lot of research but I trust that now.

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post #6 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpavelka View Post
I can't figure a problem with it but I would check that your oil levels are the same. once you have rebuilt the problem fork put it together just short of tightening the top cap back on and then undo the other forks cap and measure the level in each. I know its not the way to measure how much oil you should put in but you can at least make sure they are even.


Side note anybody ever thread tapped shcreider valves into the fork caps? I think I am spelling that wrong.


Good luck


hydrolic fluid has the same properties as fork oil by the way. Took a lot of research but I trust that now.
Quick note on the valve, my old Nighthawk 700S uses air pressure in the shocks as an adjustment. The problem that I had was that it was 0~5 or so PSI and it's hard to get a meter to read that low.

Threading one should be easy.

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post #7 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Quick note on the valve, my old Nighthawk 700S uses air pressure in the shocks as an adjustment. The problem that I had was that it was 0~5 or so PSI and it's hard to get a meter to read that low.

Threading one should be easy.


The two KLR's we have both use air valve stems on the forks. I use a little bicycle pump from target that cost about 10 bucks for this. I keep hers at 0 and mine at 8.

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post #8 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kpavelka View Post
The two KLR's we have both use air valve stems on the forks. I use a little bicycle pump from target that cost about 10 bucks for this. I keep hers at 0 and mine at 8.
I too had a Honda Nighthawk (mine was the 550) that had air preload forks. I bought an expensive 0-15 PSI pump with gauge and used it once. I still have it if anyone wants it.

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post #9 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 10:21 AM
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Take a look at bicycle shops for low volume/low pressure suspension pumps , I have one for my Rotec suspension that's basically a large syringe with a gauge

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post #10 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 11:35 AM
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someone told me once that it's ok to replace just one tire...so long as you can replace it with the same tire type and tread designs as the other tire has.

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-01-2017, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageHunter View Post
someone told me once that it's ok to replace just one tire...so long as you can replace it with the same tire type and tread designs as the other tire has.


Not necessary. I know a lot of folks, myself included, that ran or do run different front and rear. The pattern on the F and R is different to begin with, so finding the same tire is a moot point. Find what works for you and roll with it.


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post #12 of 15 Old 03-02-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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I wonder why you couldn't tap the bottom of the fork and add a drain hole. Seems like you'd save a lot of time in draining the fork oil and can't see much of a down side to it.

Tap the top for an air inlet, tap the bottom for draining the oil. Change out the oil every time you change the motor oil.

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post #13 of 15 Old 03-02-2017, 09:28 AM
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huh?
what's this in response to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
I wonder why you couldn't tap the bottom of the fork and add a drain hole. Seems like you'd save a lot of time in draining the fork oil and can't see much of a down side to it.

Tap the top for an air inlet, tap the bottom for draining the oil. Change out the oil every time you change the motor oil.

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1984 Yamaha Seca 400
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1987 Yamaha RZ350
Various Yamaha YSR50, YSR200, YSR80
1986 Honda 500 Interceptor
1998 Yamaha R1 (first original R1)
2006 Kawasaki Ninja 250
1997 Kawasaki ZX7
1989 Honda GT650 Hawk
1989 Honda CB-1
2007 Honda 919
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-02-2017, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VintageHunter View Post
huh?
what's this in response to?
someone was asking about tapping for a valve to let air in. Some bikes use air pressure to adjust the forks (CB700S). This and a drain could be added to the 919.

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post #15 of 15 Old 03-04-2017, 04:34 AM
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Karl, that is s good idea. I know that l would change my fork oil a lot more often if it was not such a hassle.

The 990 Super Duke has air bleeders on top of the forks, as do most dirt bikes.

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