Changing sprocket - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-05-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Changing sprocket

I want to get more speed (bottom end) like taken off and
So would I go a toot extra on rear sprocket and minus a tooth on the small sprocket
the chain just regular size
Am I correct with this
Any advice will be grexatfull
Thanks

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post #2 of 14 Old 07-05-2019, 08:05 PM
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Correct, one tooth down on the front is about equal to three up on the rear.

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post #3 of 14 Old 07-06-2019, 02:31 AM
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You might find this helpful.

https://sprocketcalculator.com/

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-06-2019, 06:19 PM
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The closer you get to 3:1 ratio: "Lets get a lot of grunt off the line by gearing it to 15:45! It'll be cool!" the less time you are going to keep it that way. Given the sudden throttle response, which I love BTW, it is all too easy to get into a slide exiting a corner with just a touch too much throttle, and in dicey conditions a very deft throttle hand is required.

My recommendation? Try installing a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket with the original rear and see what it feels like. That shakes out to a 6.6% increase in rpm for a given speed, and probably a buzzier cruise at expressway speeds. Once acclimated to that you will know which way you want to go from there. One big advantage is unless your chain is way too loose it won't need any adjustment, though I would check and adjust if necessary under any circumstances.

Good luck with this, and at least at first be very careful! It can rear up and bite very quickly until you are acclimated.

Rob

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On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #5 of 14 Old 07-06-2019, 07:18 PM
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The previous owner of mine had the 17/44 set up.
After a bit I went to a 15/43 for the same reason, OP.
I also put on a Power Commander with a tune (rich at low/mid rpms) and accelerator pump enabled.

I enjoyed it much more than the 17/44 for my riding style. Mostly backroads and curves, some commuting but take the backroads on commutes also.
Didn’t use it on the highway a lot, but still useable on the highway. When I traded it in, I rode 4 hours at highway speeds (80-85 mph) to get to the dealer and it was fine for what the 919 is.

It is definitely buzzier/more vibes than the 17/44. But I like that, currently ride a V-twin.

The speedo will be off by even more.
I believe the 17/44 set-up is supposed to get it fairly accurate as it is supposedly off from the factory and 15/43 is going the other way.

I bought my chain/sprockets from sprocketcenter.com
You shop by bike. They automatically send the correct size/link chain for the sprocket sizes you choose.

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post #6 of 14 Old 07-07-2019, 01:33 AM
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I went from stock to the 17/44 and really noticed the smoothness in 1st gear, but really miss that torque.

IMO, for my riding style, I think the 16/44 or something near that, would be best, but add in one of those tuneable throttle cam things.

I really miss that kick in late 1st and thru 2nd, but don't miss the jerky part right off the line. I was using clutch feathering to compensate before.

Maybe the PCIII can smooth things out even better.

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post #7 of 14 Old 07-07-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
Maybe the PCIII can smooth things out even better.
It made a world of difference on mine.
Previous owner had a PCIII serial version on it, but it was never really tuned properly. It was pretty awful actually.
I couldn’t find a lot of support for it, there are some already existing maps out there, but not anyone I could find that offered tuning services for it.
I installed the USB version, and with a proper tune it was night and day.
Ran it for a day with the stock map on the new PCIII and it was ok, but after the new map it was much better/smoother.

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post #8 of 14 Old 07-07-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Tks

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post #9 of 14 Old 07-07-2019, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post
It made a world of difference on mine.
Previous owner had a PCIII serial version on it, but it was never really tuned properly. It was pretty awful actually.
I couldnít find a lot of support for it, there are some already existing maps out there, but not anyone I could find that offered tuning services for it.
I installed the USB version, and with a proper tune it was night and day.
Ran it for a day with the stock map on the new PCIII and it was ok, but after the new map it was much better/smoother.
I had no idea the serial vs USB version were that different. I thought it was just the way you hook it up to a computer. Glad I know not to buy the serial version.

What I want is smooth response so you don't get the jerky response that I had with the stock gearing, but at the same time, I don't want to lose the torque like when I did the 17/44 conversion.

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-07-2019, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlJay View Post
I had no idea the serial vs USB version were that different. I thought it was just the way you hook it up to a computer. Glad I know not to buy the serial version.

What I want is smooth response so you don't get the jerky response that I had with the stock gearing, but at the same time, I don't want to lose the torque like when I did the 17/44 conversion.
The serial version does work as long as you have the correct cable, and it does it’s job.

I actually sold my old one on this forum classifieds. And the buyer used it successfully, found a cable that he purchased (you do have to get a compatible cable, was a discussion on the forum about the cable at the time I sold it) and I believe he used map(s) from members of this forum.

It can save a bunch of money, maybe just a bit more hassle to deal with.
I think I sold mine for $50, cable was probably around $20 and of course the pre-existing maps were free.

The map formats are different though, so you can’t directly use PC-USB maps with the serial version.
Although, and I may be wrong, I think you technically can screen shot a USB map and then hand key all of the values into the serial software. Just more work than plug, download, and go.

I just chose to go the other route for ease of use and tuning. I will say that the throttle response was much smoother.
Whether it is worth the cost of the PCIII and tune is probably matter of personal opinion.
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post #11 of 14 Old 07-20-2019, 05:52 PM
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I like the 17/44 in terms of how it gets off the line. It just perfectly floats the front tire. Great for consistent launches.

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-20-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PC1978 View Post

1
The serial version does work as long as you have the correct cable, and it does itís job.

2
I actually sold my old one on this forum classifieds. And the buyer used it successfully, found a cable that he purchased (you do have to get a compatible cable, was a discussion on the forum about the cable at the time I sold it) and I believe he used map(s) from members of this forum.

3
It can save a bunch of money, maybe just a bit more hassle to deal with.
I think I sold mine for $50, cable was probably around $20 and of course the pre-existing maps were free.

4
The map formats are different though, so you canít directly use PC-USB maps with the serial version.
Although, and I may be wrong, I think you technically can screen shot a USB map and then hand key all of the values into the serial software. Just more work than plug, download, and go.


I just chose to go the other route for ease of use and tuning. I will say that the throttle response was much smoother.
Whether it is worth the cost of the PCIII and tune is probably matter of personal opinion.
1
Yes indeed.

2
The old format was in .map
The USB version is in .djm format.
There is a decent inventory of good maps in both formats.

3
Agreed, and for some riders the price difference between the old serial port version and the newer ones, could easily make the difference re affordability.
There is nothing wrong with that at all.
And the serial port version works well.

4
One can use the software to morph a .map format map into .djm, but the reverse does not hold true.
To create a .map format map for a serial port version, one needs the serial port era software package, which is no longer a download from the Dynojet website.
BUT Dynojet will issue it via a customer service request. (at least they did up to about a year or so ago)
Once you have the software, one simply starts with a blank map and keys in the same values as appear in a .djm map.

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post #13 of 14 Old 07-20-2019, 06:52 PM
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Mcromo is a power commander worth it on the 919? Coming from a broke college kid, I feel like it's not worth the headaches it's caused and isn't worth it. Bike pulls smoothly enough already. 2 more track days would make me and the bike faster than a pc

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-21-2019, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanktm View Post
Mcromo is a power commander worth it on the 919? Coming from a broke college kid, I feel like it's not worth the headaches it's caused and isn't worth it. Bike pulls smoothly enough already. 2 more track days would make me and the bike faster than a pc

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Many 919 riders are happy and satisfied without a Power Commander.
My guess is that at least some of them would change their tune if they got to ride a properly set up and mapped PC, but not all.
On top of that, some have had problems with their PCs, although aside from the infamous cold start issue, now absolutely solved by Mr. Tharlson, I attribute the rest as most likely being due to installation and/or setup, not duff PC units.

If I was tight for coin, felt my bike ran good, and had to choose between a PC or two track days, it would be an instant no brainer - the track days!
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