Cbr929 top triple tree on an 07 CB919f - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 24 Old 09-25-2019, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Cbr929 top triple tree on an 07 CB919f

What is some input on putting a set of clip ons on my CB919f? I've got a vision and a grand idea I just don't know if it's practical.... Any ideas?

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post #2 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 12:45 AM
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post #3 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Hey I can't open the link you sent.

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post #4 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 11:18 AM
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Ok.

Maybe try searching for cognitomoto.com using a browser, and when you get to their site, look in their product list for triple clamps.

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post #5 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 04:01 PM
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Offset of the top triple is different.

CBR929 (30mm)

CB900F (35mm)

Look into the RC51 fork swap threads for more info on that.

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post #6 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdizzel1024 View Post
What is some input on putting a set of clip ons on my CB919f? I've got a vision and a grand idea I just don't know if it's practical.... Any ideas?
If you go with true clip ons, unless you have them positioned so that the handles are set parallel with each other and in line as eyed across the fork tubes, I think they will hit the gas tank at or before full lock.
Such a handle orientation would be awful to ride with, and surely defeat your intended purpose.

I suggest you consider a set of Tharbars.
From WT'er Rob Tharlson.
Their versatility includes a clip on like orientation, and allows full steering sweep without corrupted hand positioning.

If you still want to try clip ons, with your stock tank, I'd suggest trying to jury rig something representative to see how real ones would fit up.
For example, a mock up using wood doweling for the handles.
If it looks a go at least worth trying, then move to buying a proper set of clips ons.

As for the stock OEM triple clamp, because the bar mount towers are hollow, they can't be machined off to make a flat top triple.
One could make an aluminum plate to cover the two saddles, and bolt it in place.

One could have a flat top upper triple custom machined, and that would be the ideal solution.

Top triples from other bikes will surely have a different set back dimension re stem centre to the fork tube holes line, let alone the fork tube diameter they may have.

The upper and lower triples need to have a common set back.
Changing set back affects trail.
Changing set back affects front tire loading.
Changing set back affects location of the Centre of Gravity.

Personally, I've been wondering if a set of F4i triples would fit the 919, noting they use the same bearings and fork tube diameter.
(My interest is in the increased trail the F4i set would provide.)

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post #7 of 24 Old 09-26-2019, 07:41 PM
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Yeah. I don't see clip-ones working. I had Renthal Ultra Lows on my 919. They barely cleared.

Throwing a different handle bar on that bike would be sooo much simpler.

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post #8 of 24 Old 09-27-2019, 12:08 PM
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Clipons are an entirely viable option as long as the fuel tank is designed to allow for a reasonable amount of steering lock for street use. For evidence of this look at any recent sportbike fuel tank: they universally taper the front inward to allow sufficient clearance at full lock for not only the handlebars, but also for the rider's hands.

The 919 tank has "wings" for greater fuel capacity and to integrate to the other body components for a unified whole. Unfortunately this makes clipons very difficult to configure for bar / hand clearance without moving them forward a considerable distance, making for a very non ergonomic setup for day to day use, or restricting the steering lock for clearance which creates several operational restrictions. Of course you could make or have a custom shop make a new tank and bodywork to match, but if you think a custom triple clamp is expensive it would be a tiny percentage of the cost of custom shop to make bodywork!

Bottom line: yes, clipons can be fitted to a 919, but I am quite sure they would only be used for a short time before switching to a more reasonable handlebar. Trust me, I've seen it hundreds of times over more than five decades. More reasonable options include Renthal UL's or my TharBars which offer nearly infinite adjustability and are quite affordable when compared to Convertibars or Helibars.

Out of curiosity what are your grand ideas?

Rob

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post #9 of 24 Old 09-28-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Damn Rob you practically shattered my dream in one paragraph lol. Thank you though for your logical stand point on it. I honestly didn't think of the tank wings. I just want a more stable steering when at high speed straights and leaning hard at high speeds.

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post #10 of 24 Old 09-30-2019, 08:12 PM
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Dizzy, I'll keep your Dream of a 929front end alive. I'll sell a 929 front end to you for $8000. I'll throw the rest of the motorcycle in with it. Only 3500 miles.
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post #11 of 24 Old 09-30-2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Lmao sniper!! Seriously tho.... No offense but is that 929 worth 8k?

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post #12 of 24 Old 10-01-2019, 07:38 PM
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When was the last time you saw a showroom condition 929?

Value is an arbitrary thing. Why is the Mona Lisa, which is just a painting of an ugly female, worth so much? Because someone is willing to pay that for it.

If it isn't worth $8K now, all I have to do is wait a couple more years. The price is going up.

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post #13 of 24 Old 10-01-2019, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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True... Very true sir. Should have been a bit more aware lol. Foolish of me I suppose. So for a temporary handlebar change up...what would someone suggest for a more aggressive approach to the cb919f??

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post #14 of 24 Old 10-02-2019, 01:10 AM
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919 scrambler. Clip ons?
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post #15 of 24 Old 10-02-2019, 10:18 AM
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Shameless plug.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdizzel1024 View Post
what would someone suggest for a more aggressive approach to the cb919f??
This is the setup I have used for over two years after an uncountable number of adjustments. They are 23.75 inches to the ends of the grips, which is narrower than any clipons, barely clear the tank at full lock, and are suitable for everything from days long touring to redline in top gear on my favorite canyon roads. They allow a good tight tuck with my arms just under the wings of the tank and effortless cruising at freeway speeds with one hand on the bars: the wind pressure fully supports my upper body enabling practically zero weight on the bars. Go here for more information:https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...ble-23442.html

For this setup it requires braided stainless steel front brake lines from G&J Aircraft and surplus:https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...nes-10307.html(recommended for any brake setup anyway), a Motion Pro #02-0293 clutch cable routed over the upper triple clamp, and optionally a front master cylinder from any year CBR1000RR, which makes routing the lines much easier, and also raises the system hydraulic and mechanical leverage ratio by ~10%, making for a slightly lighter pull at the lever and a wider engagement band enabling holding the front wheel near locking without passing that threshold between squealing the tire and locking it up, something the original master cylinder made too difficult for my taste. It makes trail braking much easier and confidence inspiring.

Anyway, that's my take on it.

Rob
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File Type: jpg 919 TharBars width.jpg (203.5 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg 919 TharBars width 2.jpg (80.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg 919 Piuma road 2.jpg (160.5 KB, 11 views)

If it has already been done, it is safe to assume it is possible to do it.
On the other hand, if it has not been done never assume it is impossible to do it.
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post #16 of 24 Old 10-02-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson View Post
This is the setup I have used for over two years after an uncountable number of adjustments. They are 23.75 inches to the ends of the grips, which is narrower than any clipons, barely clear the tank at full lock, and are suitable for everything from days long touring to redline in top gear on my favorite canyon roads. They allow a good tight tuck with my arms just under the wings of the tank and effortless cruising at freeway speeds with one hand on the bars: the wind pressure fully supports my upper body enabling practically zero weight on the bars. Go here for more information:https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...ble-23442.html

For this setup it requires braided stainless steel front brake lines from G&J Aircraft and surplus:https://www.wristtwisters.com/forums...nes-10307.html(recommended for any brake setup anyway), a Motion Pro #02-0293 clutch cable routed over the upper triple clamp, and optionally a front master cylinder from any year CBR1000RR, which makes routing the lines much easier, and also raises the system hydraulic and mechanical leverage ratio by ~10%, making for a slightly lighter pull at the lever and a wider engagement band enabling holding the front wheel near locking without passing that threshold between squealing the tire and locking it up, something the original master cylinder made too difficult for my taste. It makes trail braking much easier and confidence inspiring.

Anyway, that's my take on it.

Rob
Very nice setup Rob !

Quick question regarding that CBR1000RR brake master cylinder. What reservoir is that ? It does not look like a typical ''pee cup'' type reservoir. It seems to mount much cleaner and less in the way than the round ones.

Thanks

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post #17 of 24 Old 10-02-2019, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volumetrik View Post
Very nice setup Rob !

Quick question regarding that CBR1000RR brake master cylinder. What reservoir is that ? It does not look like a typical ''pee cup'' type reservoir. It seems to mount much cleaner and less in the way than the round ones. Thanks
Got lucky there. I have an extensive bench stock of miscellaneous parts collected over decades, and amongst all of it I found that reservoir, from a mid 1990's Suzuki GSXR something. It is actually a rear reservoir with a right angle feed in just the right place to go around the handlebar. As is the case with most everything I do it would not work as it was due to the outlet fitting being 10mm instead of the 8mm fitting on the master. Had to cut off the fitting, drill it out to just under the 8mm size, and epoxy an 8mm male hose barb I had laying around in the hole. Works like a charm with one reservation: its capacity is slightly too small to hold enough fluid for the front calipers, so it requires a minor refilling when the pads are nearly worn out, and draining slightly when the pads are replaced. The fun part is the support for it. Normally it is a stamped sheetmetal piece that bolts to a boss on the master cylinder and the reservoir which would not come close to working with my setup, so I cut off a piece of 3/16" stainless steel welding rod and bent it to match up to the bosses on the master and the reservoir. It is actually lower than the inlet on the master which some say will not work, assuming a downhill run is necessary, but after a couple of pad changes with the fluid very low it became obvious that a gravity feed is not required at all. Picture below from the initial installation. I have since replaced the hose with more brake fluid compatible piece, and the master feed fitting as well.

Rob
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post #18 of 24 Old 10-05-2019, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Islandboy!! Yes just like that but that bike has an entirely different front end on it....

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post #19 of 24 Old 10-05-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Rob, regarding your master cylinder resivore..... Wouldn't it make more sense to not add fluid to the brake system and just use that as an indication to replace the pads? Instead of adding fluid and worrying about the overflow when replacing the pads?? You could also lighten the bike up a bunch if you ditched the factory exhaust....

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post #20 of 24 Old 10-05-2019, 11:49 PM
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post #21 of 24 Old 10-06-2019, 08:11 AM
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+1 to Tharbars!!!! They will let you get very aggressive or very relaxed and has a huge range of adjustment.

Really wish I could mount them to my Tuono!
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post #22 of 24 Old 10-06-2019, 04:23 PM
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I feel sorry for those poor hacked up, once proud 919s.

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post #23 of 24 Old 10-06-2019, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper-x View Post
I feel sorry for those poor hacked up, once proud 919s.
Hahaha! Don't sweat it Sniper. Machines don't have feelings.

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post #24 of 24 Old 10-08-2019, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdizzel1024 View Post
Rob, regarding your master cylinder resivore..... Wouldn't it make more sense to not add fluid to the brake system and just use that as an indication to replace the pads? Instead of adding fluid and worrying about the overflow when replacing the pads??
Yes it would. Why then did I include the warning? Ethics. Actually, I have never had to drain any fluid when replacing the pads because I don't run them down to nothing, but it is necessary to inform anyone doing this that with a little inattention the front brakes may stop functioning when the fluid gets too low. In the process of redesigning the reservoir for greater capacity.
Quote:
You could also lighten the bike up a bunch if you ditched the factory exhaust....
Yes I could, but given that the "improvements" from fitting a set of ~$400 glass packs or bolting up a CBR900 4 into 1 header with whatever muffler I can cobble up to it are largely illusory. Sure, either may look cool and be somewhat lighter, but neither option will have much effect on power, maybe a couple of percent more near redline which I rarely approach, and both will cause a dip in power below the torque peak where I spend the vast majority of my riding. The only other effects involve making more noise, which I simply won't do, and the "looks cool" factor, which to me is irrelevant. Besides, I like the sound of the stock mufflers. Especially when under certain loads it sounds eerily similar to a 1962 Jaguar XKE at about 4000 RPM my father drove from new. Very cool car that at 96,000 miles he traded in for a ... Cadillac six weeks before I got my drivers license. Pissed me off no end.
OTOH, in retrospect a wise move!

Rob

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