Battery question? - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Battery question?

Why is it when a car battery dies you can jump it and the car will run off the alternator and get you home, but when your bike battery dies bike stops running mid ride and you're just F'd?

Seems dumb, why cant someone design a similar system that we see in cars...

(yes my battery died, yes I got stranded at a titty bar my friend bar tends at and I was forced to get drunk and look at titties until she could give me a ride home)

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post #2 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 06:09 AM
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Must have been rough.

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post #3 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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It was a rough one, I drank ALL night and got whacked with a 9 dollar tab.

Seriouly though I know bikes have stators insted of alternators but why oh why dosent it keep the bike running?

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post #4 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 07:41 AM
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Is your battery or stator starting to go bad? I've had to bump start my niner before because of a low battery and it was good to go after I rode it around for a bit. Never had a problem since.
It's a shame you had to stay there with a dead bike. I don't know how you could have stayed in such a dirty place telling all the girls about your bike problems and getting them to fell sorry for you.

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post #5 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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My old 600RR died on me at the top of a mountain, 50 miles from anything. Bump starting didn't work - hooked up my buddy's battery from his Street Glide, and it fired right up. When the battery is completely shot, that's it.

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post #6 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian View Post
It was a rough one, I drank ALL night and got whacked with a 9 dollar tab.

Seriouly though I know bikes have stators insted of alternators but why oh why dosent it keep the bike running?
So you had like... one drink?

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post #7 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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No I drank my face off, my friend was bar tending. So Im under the assumption a bike wont run with a dead batt. is this correct?

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post #8 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 08:57 AM
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Correct.

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post #9 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 09:37 AM
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Mine acted all weird a year ago after sitting the winter. I charged the battery. Sometimes it would not start or did not quite enough to crank over, but enough to run the fuel pump. It would bump start and run around the block, but at lower RPMs would miss and act goofy. Also my headlight was dim and had next to no output. I forked over the dough for a new battery. Turns out the old battery had some dead cells and no good CCA.

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post #10 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 10:54 AM
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Yep - I've also had an instance where my first 600RR would felt like hitting the rev limiter under full load - it'd also 'pop'. New battery fixed it - it was an '03, so the stator/rr could have been on their way out as well.

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post #11 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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cool I just didnt wanna get a battery and find out it was something else. Also didnt wanna get stranded again...

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post #12 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 12:38 PM
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Having the voltage to run the starter to crank the engine, run the fuel pump, fire the injectors, & energize the ignition circuits is one thing. Having the voltage to keep the engine running is something else.

I'm still on the original battery with the '03 at 53K. Tendered every day except when on tour.


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post #13 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 02:48 PM
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I used to work for Honda Canada and they stated the biggest issue was regulating voltage for the ECU. without the ECU working it doesn't matter if the fuel pump/injectors/headlight work. If you have a big enough hill you can start any bike -they showed us. But you have to get the charging system running first.

Honda always boasted how they had the only ATV that could actually be cranked (ripcord) with a completely dead battery. I was told they were the only ATV on the market with an ecu that could function with a single pull of the ripcord (as of two years ago).

Why they don't implement this into their bikes, I have no idea.

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post #14 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 03:12 PM
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I recall someone telling me that older honda bikes (70's and 80's) didn't really 'charge' until 3000 rpm or higher. People that just putted around town had problems keeping batteries charged. Not sure how true that is or if it was just certain models or a malfunctioning charging system, but...

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post #15 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrj View Post
I recall someone telling me that older honda bikes (70's and 80's) didn't really 'charge' until 3000 rpm or higher. People that just putted around town had problems keeping batteries charged. Not sure how true that is or if it was just certain models or a malfunctioning charging system, but...
I have no doubt you recall well, but for sure you were mislead.
The 1969 CB750 in my book, is the bike that began the concept of "car style" charging systems in motorcycles, as in reliable systems that rectified well and regulated well, thus letting the batteries of the day live, all the while being able to charge at idle. My 1973 attests to this, as does the factory manual. As long as the connections, wires and components are in good condition, then any problem should be battery related. And batteries of the 70s were crude in comparison of today - just like cars. Of course, on the flip side were bikes like my 1971 Norton Commando, which had "Prince of Darkness" Lucas electrics on it, noting in particular the infamous Zener Diode that all British bike owners ended up being aware of - regardless of whether they wanted to or not.

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post #16 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 06:30 PM
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$9.00 at a strip club? If I was stuck at one of those establishments I'd probably spend about half my life savings... even if the beer was free.



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post #17 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Lol I hear ya but I used to DJ at one, probably half of my "girlfriends" have been strippers. Im underwhelmed with titty bars nowadays and underwhelmed with good girls too as a result. I need a bad girl gone good or two..... and a battery.

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post #18 of 18 Old 05-16-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Of course, on the flip side were bikes like my 1971 Norton Commando, which had "Prince of Darkness" Lucas electrics on it, noting in particular the infamous Zener Diode that all British bike owners ended up being aware of - regardless of whether they wanted to or not.
Even the old CB's had a break even point that was somewhat above idle, though not much above due to the relatively minimal electrical loads of that era. Fast forward to a modern bike with fuel pumps, ECU's, trick instrument clusters, and all manner of ancillary loads all powered by a charging system not much better than the old CB's, and you end up with a break even point considerably higher than the old CB's. That's just the way it is.

Want a car system? Stick a pulley drive for the alternator and overdrive it by a factor of at least 6:1 -- it'll produce break even generation at about 100 rpm, but you don't want to deal with the hellacious power draw that selfsame alternator would produce at higher engine speeds regardless of the power it's producing. 60,000 rpm + takes a lot of energy to spool up and maintain.

As to Lucas electrical systems -- my '72 BSA Gold Star had the quintessential Lucas system (though apparently not typical) -- Zener diode and all -- started out reliable and for the next 60,000 miles or so it functioned quite well. So well in fact that it would kickstart hot or cold in a maximum of two kicks despite the fact that it had a battery coil ignition system and the negative terminal disconnected from the battery! That alternator produced enough power to start the bike at 5 rpm. No other non magneto bike I've ever heard of can make the same claim.

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