919 oil cooler or larger radiator - Wrist Twisters
 
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post #1 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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919 oil cooler or larger radiator


I think Honda missed the mark on the 919 and sized the radiator on the small side.
Is there an oil cooler or larger radiator I can get?
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post #2 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 11:08 AM
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Are you overheating? I have ridden hard in 45'C and I was dying- but the bike was just above half the temp gauge as always

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post #3 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 11:32 AM
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? stutz? i'm surprised you say that because the cooling on this bike is too efficent. it works so well in cold weather that my bike never moves off of the "c" unless i'm in alot of stop/go traffic and even then it will only budge some.

what's going on with your cooling system? fill us in so we can help.

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post #4 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stutz View Post
I think Honda missed the mark on the 919 and sized the radiator on the small side.
Is there an oil cooler or larger radiator I can get?
do you have air in your cooling system?

have you changed out the coolant recently?

What kinda temps are you running in? If ambient temps are above 25*F or so i would suggest a 70:30 ratio of distilled water : coolant, and then add the appropriate amount of water wetter.

I never had any problems running straight 50:50 even running in 105*F running her hard as hell.... i mean HARD.... i went through my pilot road 2 rear tire in 4k miles... the edges were gone... center still there... thats how i ride.

I figured since i was the second owner of the bike when i got it and it only had 3.6k miles on it that the coolant on the 6yr old bike had never been changed so thats why i run 70:30 + water wetter, simply because it was being changed anyways.

But really, if your having cooling problems on a stock motor with no Nos, turbo etc etc... theres something else thats the problem and not the size of the radiator.

btw... the 919 already has a oil cooler stock.

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post #5 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 11:58 AM
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[QUOTE

I think Honda missed the mark on the 919 and sized the radiator on the small side.[/QUOTE]

The 919 rad is indeed undersized for sustained full power use on high ambient days. But, this should only display itself on a track with lots of full throttle full load time, or on a dyno. If you are seeing past half gauge on the street, something is wrong, be it coolant, pump, stat, fan or rad related. In hot climates, the classic 50/50 mix is part of the problem, as it has a very poor specific heat characteristic as compared to water. All the more reason to be using Redline WaterWetter or equivalent.

An oil cooler would be wise on a turbo setup, but nothing else. Keep in mind that your hot cooling system heats the oil as much as it cools it !

You live in Georgia ?
What's the coldest temp your bike could see ?
My guess is that you could easily go to a 75/25 water/ glycol mix, maybe even 90/10 if you park in an attached garage in the winter. 75/25 would give you freeze protection down to about 11 F and it can't actually freeze below that, instead, is slushes up. 90/10 covers you to about 25 F but at that ratio you are on the ragged edge of lower temps resulting in a solid freeze as compared to slushing up. The 10% cut of glycol is really just for water pump seal lubrication and some corrosion control. ALWAYS use distilled water, never tap water. To be clear, glycol is a lousy cooling fluid ! It is essentially used for its freezing point characteristic, while providing an acceptable, not desireable, heat transfer characteristic.

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post #6 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue919Guy View Post
Are you overheating? I have ridden hard in 45'C and I was dying- but the bike was just above half the temp gauge as always
Same here. I crossed the Mojave desert mid-day in July. The needle barely moved off the cold mark. Something is wrong with yours IMO.

Spoiler:

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post #7 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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60/40 mix h20/AF
Florida in traffic the temp goes up and the fan kicks on.
Thursday it was maybe 80 and the temp gauge would go
up to half way then the fan kicks on and it takes a while
for it to cycle off. In the city the fan was on period.
checked it with IR temp meter and it is running hotter than
my 599 did.
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post #8 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stutz View Post
60/40 mix h20/AF
Florida in traffic the temp goes up and the fan kicks on.
Thursday it was maybe 80 and the temp gauge would go
up to half way then the fan kicks on and it takes a while
for it to cycle off. In the city the fan was on period.
checked it with IR temp meter and it is running hotter than
my 599 did.

might consider droppin down to 75:25 + water wetter.

and plain just to refresh the coolant.

I would also suggest to get an extra gallon of distilled water and do just a pure water flush... so fill the system up complely, run for 10 min or so / untill the thermostat opens and allows the water to circulate completely then redrain. then fill back up with 75:25 ... this will get all the shit outta the system... but dont run too long with just pure water, need some lube for them seals.

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post #9 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 01:31 PM
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There is an oil cooler at the filter. Unless you are going red I wouldn't worry about it. I've been thru 110 degree F stuff and it did fine. Not moving is not moving. You have to have a fan on eventually if the bike is setting in traffic.

"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
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post #10 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stutz View Post
60/40 mix h20/AF
Florida in traffic the temp goes up and the fan kicks on.
Thursday it was maybe 80 and the temp gauge would go
up to half way then the fan kicks on and it takes a while
for it to cycle off. In the city the fan was on period.
checked it with IR temp meter and it is running hotter than
my 599 did.
You have described exactly what is supposed to happen for such a condition.
Nothing is wrong at all with what you described immediately above.
By the way, the 919 has a relatively large coolant volume and relatively small heat rejection (rad) area.
The exact opposite of what a full on supersport engine has.

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post #11 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh View Post
might consider droppin down to 75:25 + water wetter.

and plain just to refresh the coolant.

I would also suggest to get an extra gallon of distilled water and do just a pure water flush... so fill the system up complely, run for 10 min or so / untill the thermostat opens and allows the water to circulate completely then redrain. then fill back up with 75:25 ... this will get all the shit outta the system... but dont run too long with just pure water, need some lube for them seals.
Simple white vinegar makes a safe and effective flushing compound and it is non toxic.

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post #12 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
Same here. I crossed the Mojave desert mid-day in July. The needle barely moved off the cold mark. Something is wrong with yours IMO.
Mid to high 30s in our thin air will get you in the 5/8ths to 2/3rds of full gauge with fan on at Race City lapping sessions, and the half mile run at full power has lots to do with it.
Mine got hotter on such days than it ever did on the dyno.

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post #13 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
Mid to high 30s in our thin air will get you in the 5/8ths to 2/3rds of full gauge with fan on at Race City lapping sessions, and the half mile run at full power has lots to do with it.
Mine got hotter on such days than it ever did on the dyno.
It is amazing the difference. Mojave barely made the needle move. I wasn't running hard either. Too hot to speed. It felt like a hair drier against your skin.

Spoiler:

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post #14 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickard919 View Post
It is amazing the difference. Mojave barely made the needle move. I wasn't running hard either. Too hot to speed. It felt like a hair drier against your skin.
The needed HP rejection rate is the issue at full load for extended periods. And proof positive of how little time any of the turbo builds are ever at full load for any length of time. Another reason why a turbo build with a stock cooling system can ever so easily get into trouble on the dyno. If you ran one at Bonneville, you'd be able to count to the bang.

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post #15 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
The needed HP rejection rate is the issue at full load for extended periods. And proof positive of how little time any of the turbo builds are ever at full load for any length of time. Another reason why a turbo build with a stock cooling system can ever so easily get into trouble on the dyno. If you ran one at Bonneville, you'd be able to count to the bang.
that and i seem to recal ppl having issues with the 919 above like 8psi or so... head bolts stretching causing exhaust and forced induction into the coolant lol... but thats awhole nother issue.

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post #16 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 03:15 PM
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Did you recently change your coolant? Make sure you fill from the radiator cap under the tank and not the overflow bottle. A few have done that and had overheating type problems from a lot of air still being in the system. Even in 95+ degree weather, my fan never comes on when I'm moving and cycles on and off when in stop and go traffic.

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post #17 of 21 Old 02-25-2011, 03:57 PM
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It regularly exceeds 100 degrees here in Central Texas, and I ride daily in traffic.

Stop & go traffic is BY FAR the worst for getting the engine temps up. A few minutes of sitting still and the temp gauge shows it. A first-gear roll in heavy traffic is no better.
Still, the electric fan will keep temps in the normal range.

I'm no racer, though I have done track days in triple-digit heat. The cooling system does well, so long as you're moving. A better rider will spend more time at full throttle, though my impression is that the cooling system will still do just fine so long as you keep moving.

As already stated, there is an oil/coolant heat exchanger at the oil filter.

If you are worried about engine temps, run a good synthetic oil. These hold their viscosity better at temperature extremes, and break down much less under heat.

Also check the cooling system doesn't have air in it and ensure the radiator cap holds the rated pressure.

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post #18 of 21 Old 02-26-2011, 07:15 AM
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Trust the engineers at Honda................they know what they are doing.

I bet you could let it idle all day long in 100 degree weather with no problems.

Now if there is something not working correctly in your cooling system.............well that's a different matter all together.

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post #19 of 21 Old 03-26-2011, 03:24 PM
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Some people on the BMW forums asked that same question.
Just because the fan comes on doesn't mean trouble, it means the bike is doing as specd.
It ain't hot till it gets way up to that little red spot on the top. That lil flag looking icon in the center is normal for stop and go traffic.

[
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post #20 of 21 Old 03-27-2011, 01:33 AM
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I built a bigger radiator because i thought i had overheating problems with my turbo conversion.....it turns out it was the head gasket, As the guys say the standard size radiator is fine. ......i had my bike on the dyno the other day and with the new radiator on the fan didnt even come on, so i figure the new radiator will be staying on!

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o222/woodyeee/IMAG0306.jpg
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post #21 of 21 Old 03-27-2011, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodyeee View Post
I built a bigger radiator because i thought i had overheating problems with my turbo conversion.....it turns out it was the head gasket, As the guys say the standard size radiator is fine. ......i had my bike on the dyno the other day and with the new radiator on the fan didnt even come on, so i figure the new radiator will be staying on!
Any pics of the bigger radiator you built? Interested minds want to know!

Jeff
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