New guy from reno Nevada. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 10 Old 07-28-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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New guy from reno Nevada.

so I've had 2003 Hornet 9 1 9 for the past month and a half. When I got it it had a oil leak and the guy I bought it from said that it's because he's switching to synthetic oil. It seems to be leaking from the shaft coming from the shifter? I can't figure it out and I don't think I should switch back to read regular oil? Plus there seems to be some kind of electrical issue going on. I'll be just above five grand on the RPM and the odometer and RPM gauge. All the way Max all the way empty and then go back to where my speeds at and it's also getting hard to start I have to have the clutch in and sometimes I have to move the bike back and forward I'm thinking it's the battery? Anybody got any clues for ideas or helpful tips?

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post #2 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 12:03 PM
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In respect of your oil leak, maybe going back to non-synth might be a place to start.

I don't understand your description of the electrical issue relating to your gauges - are they switching off and resetting?

Yes, hard to start issues can begin with the battery, but again, it's hard to understand the issue from your description - do you have the bike in neutral, and still need the clutch in?

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post #3 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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So I had the negative post was loose so it starts right now. Going to switch back the oil. But I still have a bog from 4-5 on the rpm.after filling up gas. Thinking I fill it too much?

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post #4 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
Thinking I fill it too much?
That's not something people on here [with many thousands of miles of experience] have ever talked about, so it's unlikely

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post #5 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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OK ty very much. Still going to scratch my head on that one? Lol. I appreciate it.

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post #6 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
so I've had 2003 Hornet 9 1 9 for the past month and a half. When I got it it had a oil leak and the guy I bought it from said that it's because he's switching to synthetic oil. It seems to be leaking from the shaft coming from the shifter? I can't figure it out and I don't think I should switch back to read regular oil? Plus there seems to be some kind of electrical issue going on. I'll be just above five grand on the RPM and the odometer and RPM gauge. All the way Max all the way empty and then go back to where my speeds at and it's also getting hard to start I have to have the clutch in and sometimes I have to move the bike back and forward I'm thinking it's the battery? Anybody got any clues for ideas or helpful tips?
Welcome aboard.
As for the oil leak.............
Far better that the shifter shaft seal is leaking than the output shaft seal behind the drive sprocket.
The shifter shaft seal should be able to be successfully replaced without any disassembly beyond removing the shifter linkage from the end of the shaft.
As for changing to synthetic being causal, I'd be leery of that one.
It is possible, as some true synthetics have insane creep capabilities, something I have seen on industrial machinery in the past.
However, the term "synthetic oil" means absolutely nothing any more, and hasn't for many years.
Highly processed and supplement laden mineral oils are deemed as being synthetic, and API enshrines the concept - duff as that concept is.
Too bad that the word synthetic has been corrupted in use.
Anyway, while I doubt the oil change was the cause, it is possible, but more likely is a failed seal.

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post #7 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 05:03 PM
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From another thread:

The word "synthetic" in simple association with "oil", is meaningless, and has been for many years.
IF the oil is an API defined Group IV, then it's for sure a synthetic by virtue of it being a polyalphaolefin, aka "PAO".
If the oil is an API defined Group V basket of everything other than Groups I, II, III, & IV, it's still no guarantee, as for example, castor bean plant seed oil is a Group V by virtue on it not being a I, II, III or IV.
Many Group III oils are called "synthetic", yet they are all mineral oils, and remain as mineral oils, although are highly processed and have higher Viscosity Index (VI) numbers.
(Both Germany and Japan exclude the use of the term "synthetic" for Group III oils, and I think that stemmed from the somewhat famous Castrol vs. Mobil lawsuit of years ago.)

The reality is, that the majority, and likely the vast majority, of engine oils badged as being synthetic, have not been synthesized at all, and instead are highly processed mineral oils. That's not to say they are no good, but they sure aren't "synthetic".

I have not checked, but I think the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is a Group III, and therefore not synthetic as it hasn't been synthesized.

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post #8 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ty very much. I have ordered that seal as well as a cruise control and fork seals. Any recommendations on weight of the fork oil? I ordered 20 weight because I'm going up a mountain every day for work. Loving this bike when it's running right! I'm so glad I found this forum as well. All of u are helpful and informative. I love it.
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post #9 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
Ty very much. I have ordered that seal as well as a cruise control and fork seals. Any recommendations on weight of the fork oil? I ordered 20 weight because I'm going up a mountain every day for work. Loving this bike when it's running right! I'm so glad I found this forum as well. All of u are helpful and informative. I love it.
Stick with 10W as the hydraulics are designed for.
20W will be like rock, not absorbing.
Use proper dedicated fork oil.

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post #10 of 10 Old 07-31-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect thank u!

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