New guy from reno Nevada. - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-28-2019, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
Tirone
 
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New guy from reno Nevada.

so I've had 2003 Hornet 9 1 9 for the past month and a half. When I got it it had a oil leak and the guy I bought it from said that it's because he's switching to synthetic oil. It seems to be leaking from the shaft coming from the shifter? I can't figure it out and I don't think I should switch back to read regular oil? Plus there seems to be some kind of electrical issue going on. I'll be just above five grand on the RPM and the odometer and RPM gauge. All the way Max all the way empty and then go back to where my speeds at and it's also getting hard to start I have to have the clutch in and sometimes I have to move the bike back and forward I'm thinking it's the battery? Anybody got any clues for ideas or helpful tips?

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post #2 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 12:03 PM
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In respect of your oil leak, maybe going back to non-synth might be a place to start.

I don't understand your description of the electrical issue relating to your gauges - are they switching off and resetting?

Yes, hard to start issues can begin with the battery, but again, it's hard to understand the issue from your description - do you have the bike in neutral, and still need the clutch in?

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post #3 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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So I had the negative post was loose so it starts right now. Going to switch back the oil. But I still have a bog from 4-5 on the rpm.after filling up gas. Thinking I fill it too much?

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post #4 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
Thinking I fill it too much?
That's not something people on here [with many thousands of miles of experience] have ever talked about, so it's unlikely

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post #5 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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OK ty very much. Still going to scratch my head on that one? Lol. I appreciate it.

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post #6 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
so I've had 2003 Hornet 9 1 9 for the past month and a half. When I got it it had a oil leak and the guy I bought it from said that it's because he's switching to synthetic oil. It seems to be leaking from the shaft coming from the shifter? I can't figure it out and I don't think I should switch back to read regular oil? Plus there seems to be some kind of electrical issue going on. I'll be just above five grand on the RPM and the odometer and RPM gauge. All the way Max all the way empty and then go back to where my speeds at and it's also getting hard to start I have to have the clutch in and sometimes I have to move the bike back and forward I'm thinking it's the battery? Anybody got any clues for ideas or helpful tips?
Welcome aboard.
As for the oil leak.............
Far better that the shifter shaft seal is leaking than the output shaft seal behind the drive sprocket.
The shifter shaft seal should be able to be successfully replaced without any disassembly beyond removing the shifter linkage from the end of the shaft.
As for changing to synthetic being causal, I'd be leery of that one.
It is possible, as some true synthetics have insane creep capabilities, something I have seen on industrial machinery in the past.
However, the term "synthetic oil" means absolutely nothing any more, and hasn't for many years.
Highly processed and supplement laden mineral oils are deemed as being synthetic, and API enshrines the concept - duff as that concept is.
Too bad that the word synthetic has been corrupted in use.
Anyway, while I doubt the oil change was the cause, it is possible, but more likely is a failed seal.
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 05:03 PM
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From another thread:

The word "synthetic" in simple association with "oil", is meaningless, and has been for many years.
IF the oil is an API defined Group IV, then it's for sure a synthetic by virtue of it being a polyalphaolefin, aka "PAO".
If the oil is an API defined Group V basket of everything other than Groups I, II, III, & IV, it's still no guarantee, as for example, castor bean plant seed oil is a Group V by virtue on it not being a I, II, III or IV.
Many Group III oils are called "synthetic", yet they are all mineral oils, and remain as mineral oils, although are highly processed and have higher Viscosity Index (VI) numbers.
(Both Germany and Japan exclude the use of the term "synthetic" for Group III oils, and I think that stemmed from the somewhat famous Castrol vs. Mobil lawsuit of years ago.)

The reality is, that the majority, and likely the vast majority, of engine oils badged as being synthetic, have not been synthesized at all, and instead are highly processed mineral oils. That's not to say they are no good, but they sure aren't "synthetic".

I have not checked, but I think the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is a Group III, and therefore not synthetic as it hasn't been synthesized.
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Ty very much. I have ordered that seal as well as a cruise control and fork seals. Any recommendations on weight of the fork oil? I ordered 20 weight because I'm going up a mountain every day for work. Loving this bike when it's running right! I'm so glad I found this forum as well. All of u are helpful and informative. I love it.
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post #9 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idly23 View Post
Ty very much. I have ordered that seal as well as a cruise control and fork seals. Any recommendations on weight of the fork oil? I ordered 20 weight because I'm going up a mountain every day for work. Loving this bike when it's running right! I'm so glad I found this forum as well. All of u are helpful and informative. I love it.
Stick with 10W as the hydraulics are designed for.
20W will be like rock, not absorbing.
Use proper dedicated fork oil.

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post #10 of 20 Old 07-31-2019, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect thank u!

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post #11 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I'm back! Lol. Did my front gear, chain and rear sprocket on my 03 919 hornet and I still have a bad leak coming from what looks like my shifter lever into case? Anyone had there's leak and any idea on a fix?
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 04:12 PM
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G'day.
Be sure it's not oil being flung off your chain. It can run down the inside of the front sprocket cover and look like oil might be leaking.

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post #13 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I'm back! Lol. Did my front gear, chain and rear sprocket on my 03 919 hornet and I still have a bad leak coming from what looks like my shifter lever into case? Anyone had there's leak and any idea on a fix? Leaks after I'm parked.

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post #14 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 05:20 PM
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IIRC, someone was able to replace that seal by removing it without opening up the case.

One of the first things I'd do is switch back to OEM Honda oil and do a complete change with filter, then after a while, change it again (whenever you change your oil).

This should flush out whatever other oil is left over after the changed.

One other thing is to clean the shaft. With forks, they make a very thin plastic things that can grab dirt from under the seal. I'm not a fan of this, but some say it works. I like to tear things apart and change seals.

I can't even find that seal on BikeBandit. Do you have any parts breakdown from BikeBandit or anyone else?

I think you can replace that seal by breaking it out and installing a new one. I think it's a grooved shaft that goes in there, so take off the foot controls and replace the seal.

Getting the old one out can be a real trick. Once you carve into it, it's pretty much all-or-nothing, you have to get it out. Clean it and try to pry it out, maybe a small dremel type cutter or cold chisel will get it out.

Maybe someone knows of a special tool to remove a small shaft seal without removing the shaft.

Can you take a pic of the actual leak?

How much is it leaking?

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post #15 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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It's leaving bad. But when I had it propped up doing the gears and chain. Didn't leak once? I like tearing things apart and fixing them to. Going to upgrade with a power commander later. But need the leak to stop. Going to switch oil and filter this next week. I put allot of miles on it last summer. Lol.

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post #16 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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I'll take a pic when I get it home.

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post #17 of 20 Old 01-31-2020, 07:09 PM
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The gear shift rod oil seal is easy to replace.
Remove spindle plate and pick seal out. Dentist pick would work. Sometimes you can screw a wood screw just into seal and pull it out then.
The oil seal doesn't have a ridge on the inside so can be removed from the outside.
Push in new seal. Refit spindle plate.
Check out some cbr900 forums on this subject. The engine is similar.
Don't think I've heard of this happening on a 919. But that doesn't mean it can't.
Just make sure the oil isn't from your chain.

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post #18 of 20 Old 02-01-2020, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you! Definitely not from chain cause it leaks after I'm stopped on my kick stand. I'll try that next.

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post #19 of 20 Old 02-01-2020, 02:38 PM
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Picks like this would work. Stab into seal and lever out.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F254288743647
Use a little grease on new seal when installing and inspect shift shaft for damage.
New oil seal is about 3 dollars.
Good luck mate.
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post #20 of 20 Old 02-01-2020, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Islandboy View Post
The gear shift rod oil seal is easy to replace.
Remove spindle plate and pick seal out. Dentist pick would work. Sometimes you can screw a wood screw just into seal and pull it out then.
The oil seal doesn't have a ridge on the inside so can be removed from the outside.
Push in new seal. Refit spindle plate.
Check out some cbr900 forums on this subject. The engine is similar.
Don't think I've heard of this happening on a 919. But that doesn't mean it can't.
Just make sure the oil isn't from your chain.
If the seal is a double lip, as I think it would be, be sure to put some grease between the lips to make sure the outboard lip does not run dry.
The inner lip will of course be running on engine/tranny oil.
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