Thanks for the info.The bike is stock. Did you make any needed changes for the track.
If you are going to go out on a stock 919, aside from what the track provider might require for prep, is the following suggested list.
Remove throttle cable slack.
Tape all lenses.
Use the blue masking tape, sticks enough but does not fuse like white does, and won't blow off like green can.
If they saying duct or plastic tape, just put that over the blue masking tape, trust me, when it comes for removing it, you'll be thankful. Especially on a hot day.
I don't bother removing the headlight wire connector, some do. Same story re brake light.
Run your ride height (so called preload) adjusters all the way down, and if you refuse to do that, run them mid range.
Check your rebound adjustment, and remember that too much will get you into serious trouble in a hurry, while a bit less than ideal will not cause you grief.
Don't be surprised to see that almost all of your compression stroke travel is used up by hard braking. (use a zip tie as indicator of maximum travel used)
The stock unit is garbage and the spring is way too soft.
Some run with max preload, although I feel that # 4 is probably better otherwise the rear end will act like it is solid when extended under any hard braking.
It's probably best to leave the rebound adjuster at the Honda manual suggested initial setting, and just put up with whatever you get.
919s with stock shocks squat badly on a track, 2004s and later in particular.
The rear shock unit is a real weakness on the track, concentrate on being very smooth on the guess, avoid whacking the throttle in 2nd & 3rd (assuming you don't have any 1st gear turns), and see 1 above again.
You will hear such a range of things to do or not to do that your head will be spinning. What to believe and what to do hang in the balance.
It's your first time on the track, you do NOT want to run rears in the 20s as you will be spooked by carcass movement.
Nor do you do want to run the Honda manual pressures otherwise the tires will not grip as well. (as in 36 F 42 R)
Go for a pressure that allows some carcass flex, gives better grip, and still feels "familiar" when cold and when warmed up.
32 front and 34/35 rear is something you simply can not go wrong with be it hot,cold, wet, or dry.
Once you have a few sessions under your belt, and feel you can use more grip, then find someone that either "knows the tire" you use, or is using them, and see what they are using.
For example, Michelin 2CTs work well locally for us with 31 cold F and 30 cold R.
Just remember that the more grip you put into the tires by either pressure settings or the ones you are riding on, the more you are asking the stock suspension to cope with under increasingly extreme conditions.