I want to make my 919 more Track oriented - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 67 Old 03-14-2017, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Question I want to make my 919 more Track oriented

I have been bit by the Track Day bug and want to make my 06 9er more track oriented/ worthy. (I am 6' 235lb)

I would like suggestions with bike set up and mods.

Currently set up is close to stock.maybe a touch higher due to suspension changes?

Mods so far:

.95 Race Tech Spsings with 15mm spacer and gold valves Run the oil at 125mm. (will change if recomended)
Penske rear shock with 1300 spring
Steel braided brake lines with (motul break fluid)
Sato Slip on cans
Flapper Mod
Pairs block of plates.

Current tires CT2's, have also run Metzler sportech m5.
Oh and a 599 headlight

Some things I would like to change/ get suggestions on as well:

Handle bars
levers
Tank grips
crash protection for the bike

This may be a crazy question any areo stuff available for the 9er?

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post #2 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 12:04 AM
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I run a bone stock one, only thing I'd do is run some slightly more track oriented rubber. If I ever won the lottery, the first thing I'd do is get a new set of rearsets to get some more ground clearance. By the way, which track do you go to? I live in nassau county so maybe we could meet up some time....on or off the track =)

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post #3 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Nathatnktm. So far it's only been New Jersey Motor Sports Park.
Where do you go?

I am on Islip, where in Nassau are you?
Would lI've to catcheck up with a fellow 9er.

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post #4 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 09:16 AM
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17/44 Gearing, Rear Sets and Powercommander with the Sato Map are what you still need

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post #5 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 11:44 AM
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FRONT END
I'd back off on the front end preload and reduce it to 10, that determination being made with the ride height adjusters fully backed out so all the rings are showing.
For an initial ride height setting, given you have an adjustable length rear shock, I'd lift up the front and start with only two rings showing.

125 mm oil height is best, stick with it.
Depending on what oil you are using, your ideal rebound setting will vary.
What oil are you using?

Be very careful on rebound setting, as too much will put you on your head.
As soon as you lose "patter" and it feels "wooden" you are out of safe and into the danger zone.
Once you are in the zone, do 1/16 turn adjustments for the final tuning.

What valving are your Gold Valves configured to ? (c32 r18 etc )

Put a zip tie on one fork, just above the seal.
Bottom out that fork totally, doing it slowly so for sure you get the full stroke of the hydraulic snubber.
Put a wrap of marker tape on the fork tube right above the zip tie.
Avoid the last 10 mm of travel, with any needed change being by front brake technique change - riding position included.
The best way to do a full bottoming out is to remove one fork, hold the leg vertical in a vise (with cloth or brass shim stock to prevent marring), remove cap and do the downstroke - the oil should all drip down into the tube this way.

That takes care of the front.
I think you have a Penske 3 way with digressive compression piston face, correct?
Please confirm or advise otherwise and I can do the same re the rear as I did above for the front.

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post #6 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 12:14 PM
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TIRES
In terms of what you have, I'd suggest the 2CTs, but admit to knowing zero about the M5s you also have, but suspect the 2CTs will be superior.
As long as the 2CTs are in good shape re wear and not aged out and dry.
Once you have pace, 2CTs get greasy on hot days.
They are great starter tires, very predictable.
Allow 3ish laps to warm up, once you have pace, allow 2.
I'd suggest 32 psi cold front and 34 cold rear for your first session or two, so they feel familiar.
Once you have some rhythm and are able to build some heat in the tires, move the front down to 31 cold and the rear to 32 cold.
After more track time drop the rear down to 30 cold.
Resist going below that, unless you can use the added grip and are OK with the cold tire carcass instability feeling during on track warm up (it's not scary, but you can feel it).
Target hot temp after a session for the front is 33 psi, so with time you may be able to get your front cold setting down a bit from 31.

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post #7 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 12:22 PM
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BARS
Get something lower, like Renthal ULs or similar.

TANK PADS
Grip up the middle, the lower sides and the upper sides.
The upper side grip works fantastic for hanging by your outboard leg with the knee nicely hooked by the upper flare out.

CRASH PROTECTION
Do a school.
Ride within your capabilities.
Get rhythm, get pace, then dial it up.
Your first time will likely be lapping led by a track lead rider, which is great for getting some rhythm.
A billet aluminum dyno cover is a really good idea - if you can still find them for sale somewhere.
But what remains is this, if you are doing track days, not crashing should be the backbone of your riding plan and ride accordingly.
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post #8 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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LDH,

Thank you! I will order the sprockets and chain this weekend this weekend and start scouring the internet for a Powercomander

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post #9 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 01:24 PM
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post #10 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd F. Smith View Post
LDH,

Thank you! I will order the sprockets and chain this weekend this weekend and start scouring the internet for a Powercomander
No doubt LDH meant a 520 variant and not 530.
DK Racing may stock both, so check with LDH to be sure.

If your Satos are new or newish, they should be the Small Bore variant, Gen 2s that is.
The WT Dropbox has Satos mapS, but only one was done for Gen 2s.
You could try the Large Bore maps, all are LDH's work.
You could also try the Mori v4 map.

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post #11 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Any suggestions on rear sets?
or what should I look for and why?

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post #12 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Mcromo44

Big Thank you.

Yes, Avoiding crashing is a priority. I actually hired coach for my last track day last year. What a difference it made!!!

I am running silkolene 10wt (ill look and confirm when I get home)

Yes it is the gold valves Not sure of their set up. How would i find those #'s? (originally when ordered I told hem it was for commuting if that helps)

Thank you for the tire suggestion. If you feel there is something better I am not married to that tire. Not sure if it was me or what, but the bike seemed a little less settled on the 2CT's. Maybe that was the greasy feeling you were talking about. I was more aware and quicker with the coach Maybe that was the differnce?

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post #13 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
No doubt LDH meant a 520 variant and not 530.
DK Racing may stock both, so check with LDH to be sure.

If your Satos are new or newish, they should be the Small Bore variant, Gen 2s that is.
The WT Dropbox has Satos mapS, but only one was done for Gen 2s.
You could try the Large Bore maps, all are LDH's work.
You could also try the Mori v4 map.
I want to say Gen 2s the truth is I am not sure large or small bore. They are the carbon version if that means anything?

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post #14 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd F. Smith View Post
I want to say Gen 2s the truth is I am not sure large or small bore. They are the carbon version if that means anything?
I don't know enough about Satos to know if the early large bores even came in carbon. The small bore stuff has been around for some years now, so my guess is that you have small bores regardless of whether they are Gen 2s or not. LDH would know all this stuff right off the top of his head. Do you know how old the cans are?

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post #15 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd F. Smith View Post
Mcromo44

1
Big Thank you.

2
Yes, Avoiding crashing is a priority. I actually hired coach for my last track day last year. What a difference it made!!!

3
I am running silkolene 10wt (ill look and confirm when I get home)

4
Yes it is the gold valves Not sure of their set up. How would i find those #'s? (originally when ordered I told hem it was for commuting if that helps)

5
Thank you for the tire suggestion. If you feel there is something better I am not married to that tire. Not sure if it was me or what, but the bike seemed a little less settled on the 2CT's. Maybe that was the greasy feeling you were talking about. I was more aware and quicker with the coach Maybe that was the differnce?
1
You are most welcome.

2
Lucky you to have a coach!
That sure speeds things up, no pun intended.

3
I'm used to lighter oil so my setting is of no use.
Suggest you start with a mid point setting for your rebound screw, then try going firmer from there.
Keep in mind that you need more rebound damping force because of the greater spring energy, so I don't see the need of starting out at a cautious 2 turns out from full hard (closed).

4
A
Is there a spec sheet that came with the parts?
Such a sheet would show the selected stack builds.
Failing that, ask the builder what he put in, in terms of c and r numbers that is.
(If someone did a custom stack build for you, they may be willing to say "similar to cX and rY" without giving away their expertise and secrets.)
B
Did your compression piston have any custom drilling done to provide some low speed compression damping? (this is the hole that zaq123 brought to our collective attention years ago and posted a nice diagram)
If you don't have them (one per piston), it's a good have to get at some point in time.

5
Tires .......
Hmmm, that could get into a league like engine oils..............
2CTs are easy to get greasy on hot pavement days at a decent pace.
Quick warm up tires that are nimble while still being forgiving in nature and give warnings, have good wet road characteristics and work on colder pavement without needing warmers, is what I would choose on the basis of.
Legit original Pilot Powers, not the later stuff, is one choice.
In terms of more current designs, Dunlop Q3s.
I'm putting Q3s on for this season.
There's other stuff as well, depending what your selection criteria is.
I suggest you check out the motousa.com "2015 Sport Motorcycle Tire Shootout" then temper that by whatever more recent info you can find.
I found the 2CTs to be very stable, but I had nothing to compare it to. If they feel stable to me, they must be . You could have been sensing a list of things in comparison to what you were on before, including profile differences/carcass differences/newby track day unsmooth & erratic rider inputs, let alone not knowing what pressures you had them at, how hot you got them, and how shagged (with attendant shape changes) they might have been. Crazy stable will invariably be more difficult to initiate turns and slower in general, that's just the way it is with tires.

How many track days do you hope to do this season?

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post #16 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 03:43 PM
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Q3s did me good on the track. They did get a little toasty on the 90 degree track day but they held up well.

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post #17 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 04:54 PM
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OPTIMIZED SHIFT POINTS
Todd, a few years ago I did the XL spreadsheet chart work for Pvester's 17x44 combination.
If you want it, PM me an e mail address I can send it to.

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post #18 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
They are the carbon version if that means anything?
Carbon Satos could be gen 1 or 2, but not 3 (3 was SS only if you want to call it its own "gen").

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post #19 of 67 Old 03-15-2017, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
No
If your Satos are new or newish, they should be the Small Bore variant, Gen 2s that is.
The WT Dropbox has Satos mapS, but only one was done for Gen 2s.
You could try the Large Bore maps, all are LDH's work.
You could also try the Mori v4 map.
My sato map is based on LDH's latest/greatest map and then the lower rpm range fueling were adjusted for better street/traffic use. The power output and delivery were nearly identical between the two maps.

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post #20 of 67 Old 03-16-2017, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Any suggestions on a shop or some one who would be willing to work with me/ teach me how to do the front end work mcromo44 mentioned. any where in the vivacity of Long Island (NYC, parts of northern New Jersey, and Connecticut).

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post #21 of 67 Old 03-16-2017, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
1

Such a sheet would show the selected stack builds.
Failing that, ask the builder what he put in, in terms of c and r numbers that is.
(If someone did a custom stack build for you, they may be willing to say "similar to cX and rY" without giving away their expertise and secrets.)
B
Did your compression piston have any custom drilling done to provide some low speed compression damping? (this is the hole that zaq123 brought to our collective attention years ago and posted a nice diagram)
If you don't have them (one per piston), it's a good have to get at some point in time.
I'm a little surprised at this. I'm not opposed to custom work being done for suspension. We do it all the time for racers approaching lap record pace, but is it really necessary or even beneficial for a streetbike pulling double duty on the track? I mean really worth the effort?

When I install a set of Ohlins 20mm valves into a 919 fork or an RC51 fork or a whatever fork. It's done and over when I slide the stack and valve exactly as delivered off the keeper. Not one time have I ever personally felt I needed to make adjustments to that stack regardless of street riding versus track riding etc. Not only have I been 100% content with the results (& I can hustle around a track), but literally so have hundreds and hundreds of customers as well including some on this site. Not one person has ever come back to me after a 20mm Ohlins revalve and said it needed something more than what is delivered so I am a bit incredulous that a Racetech product needs more work or custom this and that. I'm not saying that fine tuning the internal parts isn't a good thing. I'm just having a hard time grasping the idea when I know beyond any shadow of doubt that a one size fits all approach (not including springs of course) can exceed almost any realistic expectations without having to mess around with it after the initial install.
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post #22 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I'll admit I'm being lazy with this question and I'm sure it some where in the WT archives.

What do valves do again and what difference would diffent valv stacks make?

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post #23 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd F. Smith View Post
I'll admit I'm being lazy with this question and I'm sure it some where in the WT archives.

What do valves do again and what difference would diffent valv stacks make?
The essence of it all is to alter the respective damping force curves for the high speed compression and high speed rebound circuits.
Curve shapes, and force magnitudes both change.
(Needle adjustments alter the low speed damping force curves.)
In essence, the energy absorbing characteristics, of what is in fact a hydraulic damping system, are altered in order to be a better match to the actual use of the suspension and how it is sprung.

My understanding of Ohlins design theory, is that the valve (which is really a "port") provides some curve shaping, while the stack build provides the final curve shaping. My guess is that the damping force magnitude is mostly due to the stack build. LDH would be THE guy to correct/confirm/further elaborate on the Ohlins design basis.

RaceTech and Traxxion use a different design basis. They use valves ("ports") of such size that they don't shape or control the damping force. Instead, everything comes from the stack build.

In all cases, the stack build rests upon the end face of the valve ("port").

Helpful ? (tonight I intend to address a few other recent posts that are highly relevant)

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post #24 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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That was very helpful thank you.

On the last part what posts.
I would love to read more about thsee type of things

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post #25 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 01:54 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd F. Smith View Post

On the last part what posts.
I would love to read more about thsee type of things
I gotta laugh, all but one were yours.

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post #26 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDH View Post
I'm a little surprised at this. I'm not opposed to custom work being done for suspension. We do it all the time for racers approaching lap record pace, but is it really necessary or even beneficial for a streetbike pulling double duty on the track? I mean really worth the effort?

When I install a set of Ohlins 20mm valves into a 919 fork or an RC51 fork or a whatever fork. It's done and over when I slide the stack and valve exactly as delivered off the keeper. Not one time have I ever personally felt I needed to make adjustments to that stack regardless of street riding versus track riding etc. Not only have I been 100% content with the results (& I can hustle around a track), but literally so have hundreds and hundreds of customers as well including some on this site. Not one person has ever come back to me after a 20mm Ohlins revalve and said it needed something more than what is delivered so I am a bit incredulous that a Racetech product needs more work or custom this and that. I'm not saying that fine tuning the internal parts isn't a good thing. I'm just having a hard time grasping the idea when I know beyond any shadow of doubt that a one size fits all approach (not including springs of course) can exceed almost any realistic expectations without having to mess around with it after the initial install.
LDH, I think a huge component in all this re the Race Tech, is the fact that their marketing approach is high customization for anyone and everyone as based on the entry of not too many variables. Whether it's done manually or on the web, a build can't be chosen without being forced to address a list of variables. I also have to wonder if their stuff, like Traxxion's, is more sensitive to the stack builds seeing as all of their damping force characteristics come from the stack builds, while the Ohlins uses a blend of valve(port) effect and stack build effect. (trusting I am correct re the Ohlins valve effect)

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post #27 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
OPTIMIZED SHIFT POINTS
Todd, a few years ago I did the XL spreadsheet chart work for Pvester's 17x44 combination.
If you want it, PM me an e mail address I can send it to.
I just e mailed you the XL Sheet.
For the benefit of others, here's a copy of the pertinent text:

Shift Point Optimization is merely a method to maximize the Driving Force at the rear wheel as much of the time as possible.
It takes into account the engine’s torque curve, the entire power transmission path from the crankshaft to the rear tire contact patch, as well as the tire circumference as part of the equation.

1
Keep in mind that each gear typically calls out for a unique shift point RPM.
Without a transmission gear specific programmable shift light this is nuts to attempt, too much brain time will be drained away try to know the gear and what rev to shift at.
Better is to pick two RPMs that make sense to use for two groups of ratios, better yet just one IF the sheet indicates that as being a reasonable thing to do.
You can see how in the case of a 919 with 17 x 44, one can effectively use just one RPM to do all the upshifting at.
(Unlike my 16 x45 that needs two RPMs. I use a higher RPM for the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts and then a 400 revs lower point for the rest of the upshifts)
This stuff works.
I was trapping higher end of main straight max speed just from changing my shift points, to be precise, I gained 200 RPM at the end of the main straight.
I’ve also attached my 16x45 sheet so you can see how this all plays out re the calculator sheet.

2
Optimized Shift Points go out the window if they are to occur at a bad place on the track.
One might be better to over rev instead of changing up if a braking point is mere yards away from a shift point.
One might be better to not drop a gear if it will result in too high a rev for a really tight turn, and spin the engine slower for more control and less jumpiness – especially if really leaned over.

3
All tachometers have error, it’s just a matter of how much and what kind. 200 RPM everywhere? Or some reasonably stable percentage of error across the sweep?
I had my tach proofed at the top when it was dyno’d.
Dyno tack versus bike tach at peak power and at rev limiter.
I did the idle to 6000 RPM band at home on my own, with my laptop connected to the bike while it was running on a race stand.
Anyway, I came up with a correction for the shift point RPMs I use, so I know that the Tacho Indicated RPMs = the actual engine RPM I want to shift at.

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post #28 of 67 Old 03-18-2017, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
LDH, I think a huge component in all this re the Race Tech, is the fact that their marketing approach is high customization for anyone and everyone as based on the entry of not too many variables. Whether it's done manually or on the web, a build can't be chosen without being forced to address a list of variables. I also have to wonder if their stuff, like Traxxion's, is more sensitive to the stack builds seeing as all of their damping force characteristics come from the stack builds, while the Ohlins uses a blend of valve(port) effect and stack build effect. (trusting I am correct re the Ohlins valve effect)

Meh... I've studied this for 2 days straight and I mean I have really delved into this issue from the ground up. They are just trying to pretend they know more than anyone else and want to make it as difficult as possible to copy their shit. That's why they don't throw it all in one box and call it good. It's marketing nothing else...

The Ohlins 20mm valve kit that we use in the RC51, the 919 and all the others is derived directly from the Superbike forks of years gone by. It's proven and very effective without the mystery and pretend sham of "customization" to make the customer feel they are getting more for their money. That's why our customers never have any complaints because all the hard work has been done for them. Install and ride away without the BS.

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post #29 of 67 Old 03-19-2017, 12:24 AM
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Everyone's talking about all these expensive mods I wished I had... Here I am, a poor punk kid who got stung by the track bug at a little too young of an age.... Living off Ramen and pb+J to save up for track days and tires.

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post #30 of 67 Old 03-19-2017, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanktm View Post
Everyone's talking about all these expensive mods I wished I had... Here I am, a poor punk kid who got stung by the track bug at a little too young of an age.... Living off Ramen and pb+J to save up for track days and tires.

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You can still be out there and still have lots of fun.
If you want a cheap step up, perhaps to serve you until you have more coin, my suggestion is this :
0.90 or 0.925 front end springing, 15 mm installed preload, good 10 wt oil set to 125 mm oil level, rebound zeroed in on carefully at the track, and a 02/03 shock on the back (because the 02/3s had rear springs instead of mushy cushions)
You should be able to shop all that for $ 200 and it's all easy work, even for a newbie.
Voila!

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post #31 of 67 Old 03-19-2017, 08:02 AM
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Meh... I've studied this for 2 days straight and I mean I have really delved into this issue from the ground up. They are just trying to pretend they know more than anyone else and want to make it as difficult as possible to copy their shit. That's why they don't throw it all in one box and call it good. It's marketing nothing else...

The Ohlins 20mm valve kit that we use in the RC51, the 919 and all the others is derived directly from the Superbike forks of years gone by. It's proven and very effective without the mystery and pretend sham of "customization" to make the customer feel they are getting more for their money. That's why our customers never have any complaints because all the hard work has been done for them. Install and ride away without the BS.
Don't go crosseyed with all the study.
At the end of the day, it's a given that Gold Can't Be Argued Against.
It's interesting to know the origins of the Ohlins 20 mm kits.

How do you and DKR handle the sale of loose kits for DIYers?
Are the valves already built and ready for fitment?
Do you have a sort of pre-established kit of prebuilt valves along with the oil?

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post #32 of 67 Old 03-19-2017, 09:21 AM
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If my bike was running double duty, I'd get a 2nd set of wheels. That way I would run a set of commuting tires for everyday whatnot, and a set of track oriented tires.

You could then save the track takeoffs and run them as an everyday tire for a while. I hate throwing out perfectly good rubber(s) just because they questionable for another round.



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post #33 of 67 Old 03-19-2017, 10:29 AM
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1
If my bike was running double duty, I'd get a 2nd set of wheels. That way I would run a set of commuting tires for everyday whatnot, and a set of track oriented tires.

2
You could then save the track takeoffs and run them as an everyday tire for a while. I hate throwing out perfectly good rubber(s) just because they questionable for another round.
1
A second set of wheels would be nice to have, but one would need to be careful about the track set tire selection re wanting/not wanting tire warmers (along with a gen set to run them) or being more radical to the point of not being as forgiving or broad spectrum.

2
A shagged set of track day tires belong in the bin, not on the street.
This is a mere half step away from track dayers riding on "blues".
As in aged out clapped out worn out racer takeoffs that turn blue and are perfectly fantastic for cold get-offs.

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post #34 of 67 Old 03-23-2017, 12:35 PM
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That was very helpful thank you.

On the last part what posts.
I would love to read more about thsee type of things
Penske used to (and still may, I'm not sure as I haven't had reason to check recently) offer for download the technical service manual for their 7000 series of shocks which while not meant to be educational was still useful in giving you an idea of the various components within a damper and how they worked together to control oil flow. Similar manuals were and may still be available for Ohlins and Bilstein but the principles are largely the same.

Al
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post #35 of 67 Old 03-23-2017, 05:02 PM
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Penske used to (and still may, I'm not sure as I haven't had reason to check recently) offer for download the technical service manual for their 7000 series of shocks which while not meant to be educational was still useful in giving you an idea of the various components within a damper and how they worked together to control oil flow. Similar manuals were and may still be available for Ohlins and Bilstein but the principles are largely the same.
The Dropbox is stuffed with Penske manuals galore.

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post #36 of 67 Old 03-23-2017, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by crakerjac View Post
If my bike was running double duty, I'd get a 2nd set of wheels. That way I would run a set of commuting tires for everyday whatnot, and a set of track oriented tires.

You could then save the track takeoffs and run them as an everyday tire for a while. I hate throwing out perfectly good rubber(s) just because they questionable for another round.
I honestly wouldn't even bother with a 2nd set of rims. I ran pr2s 4 track days plus 12k miles before needing to replace them. I'm very impressed with the pr4s thus far, having 4k miles and 1 track day on a big ass vtwin.

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post #37 of 67 Old 03-26-2017, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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The Dropbox is stuffed with Penske manuals galore.
How do I find or access the drop box?

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post #38 of 67 Old 03-26-2017, 07:02 PM
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How do I find or access the drop box?
Good question.
I don't know what the current protocol is for sure, but would think it the same as it was a few years ago when I got access.
One asks a Moderator, and I think they yae or nae it but it may be Admin that has to actually set it up.
Past that, one first needs Dropbox on their device.

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post #39 of 67 Old 03-27-2017, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Long Story Short I now need new bars.
Are the Thars Bars worth the difference in price over the Renthal UL's

P.S mcromo44 thank you for the email. I clearly was not hitting my marks.

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post #40 of 67 Old 03-28-2017, 12:04 AM
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I'm not trying to be a jerk here but the best thing that you can do is buy a track bike. I did 2 track days on my 919 and then switched to a GSXR for about 5 track days and then built an SV650 and did about 30 track days on it plus a bit of club racing. Keep your 919 as a street bike and buy a track bike for ~$4,000. I am moving to a place with no tracks so a good friend is buying my race bike for $4,700 tomorrow. Be him, the guy that buys a built track bike. Don't be me, the guy who spends $10,000 or more building it. Here is a list of modifications to turn a normal bike in to a legit track bike. This does not include my time and technical skill to get the bike dialed in. Things add up. Also does not include a lot of misc stuff. Whatever you do NO REGRETS and have fun. BTW that is about $8,300 in mods if my math is correct. That is just to put you on a bike that will do what you really want/need it to do and be good at it. Cheers.

AK20 Traxxion Dynamics fork cartridges ($1,100)
Ohlins double clicker rear ($1,000)
Titanium exhaust ($900)
Yoyodyne slipper clutch ($800)
Pitbull steering damper ($550)
Hotbodies bodywork ($500)
Vortex clip-ons and rearsets ($500)
Aim Solo GPS lap timer ($400)
Brembo master cylinder ($350)
Pitbull front hybrid headlift stand and spooled rear stand, both with the removable handle tubes ($330)
Power Commander ($300)
Lightweight aluminum subframe from RR Racing ($250)
PC Quickshifter ($200)
Extra wheels ($200 or so for spare set)
GP Tech brake lever guard ($165)
Motion Pro Rev2 adjustable throttle setup ($150)
Vortex lightweight fairing stay ($130)
Steel brake lines in front ($100 or so)

'99 Suzuki GS500e
'07 Honda 919
I'm a stardog, baby.
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