I just purchased a set of LED turn signals. What I didn't realize was that they would be two wire and the stock signals are three wire. I want them to work as running lights and turn signals so I need some kind of converter module. I know Watsen design makes one, but they are in Canada. Can I just walk into my local Cyclegear and find something?
sugs
No clue if Cycle Gear carries this item. Just order it from Watsen. Turn around time is better than some domestic suppilers.
If you are talking about the front signal/running lights, you can solder a diode in the turn signal circuit and attach both signal and running light wires to same wire on the led light. The diode will keep the flasher circuit isolated and allow the lights to flash when the turn signal is switched on. That's what I did. Total cost was about $3.00.
If your not about 'the tinkering', go ahead and order the part.
J.
If your not about 'the tinkering', go ahead and order the part.
J.
Thanks guys and I'm all about the tinkering. I was thinking that the Watsen design thingy was nothing more than a diode since it was so small but I wasn't sure. If I can go to Radio Shack and pick up a diode that would be great, just need a little something to show me what and how.
It's pretty easy -- see the simplified diagram below. Only one front side is shown for clarity. The 1N4001 diodes are available at any electronics store. When at the store, also purchase a length of heat shrink tubing to cover the diode and soldered connections.
![Image]()
A quick tutorial on the proper method of making connections in the middle of a wire. Read through completely before starting.
First, make sure you have all the tools and parts before you start. Then, decide where you want the connection to be, taking into account anything that may be in the way, allowing enough wire length, and sufficient room for the connection.
1 -- The most common mistake: Laying the wires against each other, soldering them together, and wrapping them with tape.
![Image]()
This creates stress points that will fail and cause the circuit to quit.
2 -- Proper method: Wrap the leads of the diode around a toothpick to create a loop just large enough for the wire(s) to pass through, and cut off excess wire past the loop.
![Image]()
3 -- Run the wire(s) through the loop, gently squeeze the loop closed to hold the wires in place without cutting into them, and twist them around as shown. Clip off any excess wire.
![Image]()
At this point, the connections should be sufficient to test the circuit for proper function. Make sure none of the exposed connections are touching anything, turn on the key and activate the circuit -- if it works, proceed. If not, the diode may be in backwards, or a connection is loose. Correct any problems, retest, and proceed with soldering.
3 -- Making sure the wires are coming out from the loop straight, solder them, making sure that only enough heat is applied to solder, and only enough solder is added to make the connection -- you should be able to see the outlines of the wires through the solder. If you are not sure, practice on scrap wire until confident.
![Image]()
4 -- Bend the leads of the diode back against the body, being careful not to stress the leads or short them together.
![Image]()
5 -- Retest the circuit, slide the heatshrink over the connection, making sure that it ia completely covered, and heat the tubing with a heat gun of some sort. Unless there is no alternative, do not use a match or other open flame for the heat source -- it can cause a fire or burn the tubing.
---- Some notes about the heatshrink tubing: remember to slip the tubing onto the wires before making connections! (don't ask how I know this.) Also, it is available now with a sealant on the inside which melts and seals the connection when heated. Use this whenever possible.
This may sound obsessive, but better 10 minutes of obsessive than 3 hours of cursing over a failed connection 2 months from now.
Good luck:
Rob
First, make sure you have all the tools and parts before you start. Then, decide where you want the connection to be, taking into account anything that may be in the way, allowing enough wire length, and sufficient room for the connection.
1 -- The most common mistake: Laying the wires against each other, soldering them together, and wrapping them with tape.
This creates stress points that will fail and cause the circuit to quit.
2 -- Proper method: Wrap the leads of the diode around a toothpick to create a loop just large enough for the wire(s) to pass through, and cut off excess wire past the loop.
3 -- Run the wire(s) through the loop, gently squeeze the loop closed to hold the wires in place without cutting into them, and twist them around as shown. Clip off any excess wire.
At this point, the connections should be sufficient to test the circuit for proper function. Make sure none of the exposed connections are touching anything, turn on the key and activate the circuit -- if it works, proceed. If not, the diode may be in backwards, or a connection is loose. Correct any problems, retest, and proceed with soldering.
3 -- Making sure the wires are coming out from the loop straight, solder them, making sure that only enough heat is applied to solder, and only enough solder is added to make the connection -- you should be able to see the outlines of the wires through the solder. If you are not sure, practice on scrap wire until confident.
4 -- Bend the leads of the diode back against the body, being careful not to stress the leads or short them together.
5 -- Retest the circuit, slide the heatshrink over the connection, making sure that it ia completely covered, and heat the tubing with a heat gun of some sort. Unless there is no alternative, do not use a match or other open flame for the heat source -- it can cause a fire or burn the tubing.
---- Some notes about the heatshrink tubing: remember to slip the tubing onto the wires before making connections! (don't ask how I know this.) Also, it is available now with a sealant on the inside which melts and seals the connection when heated. Use this whenever possible.
This may sound obsessive, but better 10 minutes of obsessive than 3 hours of cursing over a failed connection 2 months from now.
Good luck:
Rob
Thanks for the tip Rob. I've done the same thing forgetting to put the tube on first as well. :laugh:
I'll try that loop method next time I do some soldering.
I'll try that loop method next time I do some soldering.
That is awesome, just what I needed. Thanks guys! I'll hook it up sometime this week and post a pic to see what you think.
I must give kudos to rob. This is the type of thread that makes a community like ours so well rounded. Thanks.
Nice write up on the diode and the soldering intstructions, I could have used those instructions a few yrs ago, I also learned the hard way to solder, and yes I have forgotten the shrink wrap tubing too...
Edit: I agree, one of the best posts in quite a while!
Edit: I agree, one of the best posts in quite a while!
I don't have LEDs but I still enjoyed the write-up. Good job rob, you're not a slob, so says the mob.
I got a surprise this morning -- I took off the seat to see if the flasher unit could be removed without taking off the tailpiece, and my flasher is a two wire unit! Just the white / green and gray wires. There isn't even a ground (green) wire in the connector. As my bike is early production (Last 6 of the VIN below 1000) there may have been a production change I don't know about. Anybody else have a 2 wire?
Rob
Rob
Aren't they all 2 wire?
I know it is on my 03 since I've swapped it to do the tailer harness integrated flashers mod and to un-do that and put an LED rear tail in. I just crimped in some female connectors so my flasher relay is swappable now.
btw, awesome thread about the 2 wire LED conversion to running / flashing. Definitely top of the list for spring.
I know it is on my 03 since I've swapped it to do the tailer harness integrated flashers mod and to un-do that and put an LED rear tail in. I just crimped in some female connectors so my flasher relay is swappable now.
btw, awesome thread about the 2 wire LED conversion to running / flashing. Definitely top of the list for spring.
It figures, another mistake in the service manual. Haven't had to look at it until now. Thanks, all.
Rob
Rob
Non LED lights will more than likely run too hot, but yes you can use this same diode.
I did it with some lights last year and it worked great, but they ended up getting pretty hot and did a partial melt-down.
I did it with some lights last year and it worked great, but they ended up getting pretty hot and did a partial melt-down.
Just wandering...
If the leds have a defent ground and you ground it thru the turn signal wouldn't it work as a running light(grounding thru the turn signal)and as the turn signal becomes live (loosing the ground) and flashing?
I ask this because the Box trailors I work on do this when they Get to me wired wrong.(I get to fix them).
If the leds have a defent ground and you ground it thru the turn signal wouldn't it work as a running light(grounding thru the turn signal)and as the turn signal becomes live (loosing the ground) and flashing?
I ask this because the Box trailors I work on do this when they Get to me wired wrong.(I get to fix them).
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