Project CB750 KO - A Quest For A Classic - Page 16

mcromo44 · 12-09-2009, 06:19 PM

I don't think the studs fatigue in stock engines that have never been apart. They get ruined by overtorquing later on, especially in big more hi compression engines that sweat oil. And don't EVER use molydi on the studs! You can not get correct torque readings and there is no accredited torque value correction factor to use. Personally, I'd be more concerned about 30 year old paper gaskets than the head gaskets, as the materials are different. An ancient TSB 750339 style latex coated gasket would concern me as a replacement. I'd be inclined to look for a pre-latex coated and use the ever so trusty Hylomar PL-32M compound. And don't forget to get the surfaces perfectly cleaned, then dress them, then chemically clean them before assembly.

Simpson · 12-11-2009, 02:36 PM

The local chroming company qouted me $250 for each side saddle bracket.
I declined.
Will buff with steel wool or look for better replacements on ebay if possible.

wow 250 dollars to plate them... crazy...

Simpson · 12-11-2009, 02:39 PM

I did on the other hand submit a number of items off my carb (clips and idle thumb screws) to get nickel plated.

sike · 12-11-2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpson

The local chroming company qouted me $250 for each side saddle bracket.
I declined.
Will buff with steel wool or look for better replacements on ebay if possible.

wow 250 dollars to plate them... crazy...

Paint it black or powder coat it black, that is the new chrome!!!

Simpson · 12-17-2009, 08:52 AM

For Kristen

Kristen · 12-19-2009, 06:55 AM

Jeremy-
Do you want flats milled on the spacer/threaded piece surfaces?

Kristen · 12-19-2009, 08:12 AM

Also-
On the flat pieces you requested 5mm.
We have a nice piece of 3/16 steel, which would be 4.7mm or I have 1/4, which is 6.3mm. The 3/16 would be easiest to do, unless you are set on exactly 5.0mm.

Simpson · 12-19-2009, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristen

Jeremy-
Do you want flats milled on the spacer/threaded piece surfaces?

Not sure i understand the question?
Perhaps if I explain how the parts mate with the bike.
Looking right to left on the assembly view.

The right side of the assembly view with the thread M8 sticking out will screw flat into the frame and back fender. That round spacer joins and anchors those two pieces while creating another threaded mounting post.

The 2 hole long plate is sandwiched flat between the two threaded spacers.

The other side of the long plate bolts onto another part of the saddlebag cage as a heavy vibration support beam.

With all three threaded together, the left side spacer should have half a threaded hole available to mount the saddlebag cage with a flat head screw not shown in the drawing.

All surfaces mating together should be seat flat.

Did I just make this more confusing? I wrote this without any assistance of coffee before 12:00.

Kristen · 12-19-2009, 09:21 AM

I didn't make myself very clear, either. :001_smile:

How are you planning to tighten everything together?
Do you want 2 flats for, say, a 21 mm wrench?

And what about the flat bar (see above)?

Simpson · 12-19-2009, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristen

I didn't make myself very clear, either. :001_smile:

How are you planning to tighten everything together?
Do you want 2 flats for, say, a 21 mm wrench?

And what about the flat bar (see above)?

the two threaded pieces will butt up to each others and tightened into place with thread locker.

Kristen · 12-19-2009, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpson

the two threaded pieces will butt up to each others and tightened into place with thread locker.

Dang it Jeremy, pay attention here.
WHAT tool are you going to use to tighten these nice round spacers with, channel locks?
Wouldn't a flat for a wrench make it easier to tighten these together cleanly?

And, again, see above concerning the flat bars as you did not answer the question.

Simpson · 12-20-2009, 09:57 AM

My hand i guess? The assembly will then be drawn tight with the last screw.
Some small flats would be good. Its up to you!

Kristen · 12-20-2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simpson

Some small flats would be good. Its up to you!

This OK?

Simpson · 12-20-2009, 03:49 PM

Better than good, great!

Simpson · 12-20-2009, 03:54 PM

Can you fix my motorcycle too?

mcromo44 · 12-20-2009, 05:30 PM

I'm getting misty eyed looking at those components, especially the engine. By the way, if you want your early style pipes to last, yank out the secondary baffling and leave it out.
For sure for sure for sure take off the fibreglass wrap ! Otherwise it holds acidic condensate and your pipes WILL rot out. Besides, with the secondary baffling removed and any kind of cam in it, even a 71 spec cam, it will howl like a GP bike from the 60s when it's wicked open and up on the tacho.