Bead blasted & 3 coats rattle can primer & 3 coats rattle can color. The key is letting it cure (not a problem in this build if you have been following along). Waited 2 weeks from when I sprayed them to when I removed them from the hanging device I used.
Also a K1 only foot bar. The K0 pegs more or less flopped around, the K1 had three position detent foot pegs, the K2 had pegs that looked like a dirt bike.
As far as the tail light It is the 5th or 6th one all trying to find one "good enough". Its not so much that this one is great as it is I quit. Even the lens on it now has some cracks but the bare lens next to it from one of the previous four or five is good so I will use it. Need to get it cleaned up & mounted.
The pile of wheel hardware & these sorry looking things are next.
The rusty wheel is from a parts bike. Its rusty but no dents, my other one had some dings. Should blast away the bad stuff.
For anyone who has removed CT70 tires--these took the cake. I ran over them with a car for half an hour trying to unseat the bead. Got 4 of 6 halves that way. Other two had to be beaten off with a hammer & chisel WHILE IN A TIRE CHANGER BEAD BREAKER. Other methods I have used in the past include a hack saw. Chewed up one tire a bit with the chisel but it has a tube & is not a highwway bike so I will risk it. Once I had my 6 wheel haves I chose these as the best four (ding wise--none--not rust wise).
Had to laugh when I read of your tire changing methods as I have tried the exact same ones as you except for running them over with the car, all along questioning my sanity as the crazy ideas are racing through my head[. How could something that should be so simple make me want ball up in the corner and start sucking my thumb!!! I found that carefully applying some heat to the bead of the rim with a torch will allow the rim to pop right out of the tire./I]
lookin awesome man. I just love how timeless the horizontal honda motor is. still used today in their various smaller bike and lots of parts are interchangeable.
Im not meaning to interrupt your thread here, but could you tell me the kind and color of paint you you used for your engine? and the cylinder head did not come painted stock, correct? You help would be greatly appreciated! Everything looks great by the way ! Im working on a k0 myself! Thanks again!
I also used the gray engine primer--engine enamel for all kinds not the high heat.
K0 Headlights--shells always busted. You could buy the red one (and only the red one) new for about $35 a few years ago. It's like they found a hidden stock or started making them again because they were not available at a time before that, might be hard to get again.
I will be painting the rims & seat hinge this weekend. The seat hinge will allow me to bolt up that shiny new seat. My seat latch was cracked.
I also finally found a swingarm with nice enough paint to use--3rd one's a charm. I will get the swingarm bolted which will allow me to mount the shocks, which will allow me to mount the exhaust, which will allow me to install the engine cradle, which will allow me to install the pegs, which will allow me to install the rear brake. I love it when a plan comes together. The seat hinge & swingarm were holding me back.
Well im having a heck of a time with my headlight and figuring out if it is original or not and how to change the bulb... but I did take your advice on the wheels and they turned out great! Thanks! Hope everything is well on yours!
K1 1 year only hard to find tail light bracket. The K0 had their own tail light bracket & shared a light with the Z50. The K1 was the odd man out & used the full CB tail light...They look huge on a bike this size. By the time the K2 came out Honda had developed the XL series & they switched to that tail light which fit the bike a whole lot better.
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The K1 had this 1 year only 6 pack/washboard type heat pressing. K0's had more of tuck & roll look with rivets around the base & K2 & later had heat press alll the way across the seat with the same chrome base.
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Also a K1 only foot bar. The K0 pegs more or less flopped around, the K1 had three position detent foot pegs, the K2 had pegs that looked like a dirt bike.
With a nice swingarm found & installed I was able to install the shocks, exhaust (was just sitting there in previous pics), foor peg bar, engine cradle (always fun to try & bend into shape so you can get all the bolts started), exhaust cradle guard, shift lever, & seat after I found & painted a seat hinge (mine was cracked, seat was just sitting on frame before).
Of all the things to hold me up....an inner tube. I need an inner tube. I cant find one that is "correct". I have not tried ordering the Honda one yet because my dealer will make me pay for it even if it is not what I want. I need a tube 4.00x10 or 3.50x10 with a straight rubber valve stem. I can find 90 degree stems or threaded metal stems but these will not do. Later Z50's have the 90 degree stem for sure so I am assuming Honda eventually switched the CT over too since they were making them in the early 90's even.
Has anyone ordered the Honda one? What valve stem does it have?
Nope, still holding me back. I did order the Honda one & it was a 90 metal as expected. It hasn'e been my highest priority but all I need is to find an inner tube then polish the brake plates & it should be rolling---hopefully before winter. I am trying to buy an entire wheel assembly without getting gouged on Ebay for somethign I have literaly had 2+ dozen of before.
Got a tube so the front wheel went on without much trouble. Go to the back, installed it, spun, knock-knock-knock. So now I need to replace the wheel bearings. I knew they were iffy but figured on something that would see so little use maybe I could get away with it---nope, it was really bad.
This should be an easier find than the tube.
I need to find a better front fender--this one has small ripples & deep scratches.
Need a better exhaust guard & brake pedal.
I will bolt up what I have once I get the wheels on for the sake of wrapping up this thread & replace them as I find parts later on. Won't be much longer now.
Took no less than 4 atempts at mounting the rear wheel. 1st time bad wheel bearing. 2nd time realized you had to put the rear brake actuator on the splines first (which I turned out to be keyed to the one specfic way & I had that on 180 degrees off the first time so had to redo the shoes). 3rd time I forgot the return spring that you had to put on before the actuator. 4th time was a charm. Of course I had the chain on, adjusted, cotter pins on etc. each time before I caught the errors.
Started right up. Had to adjust the cam chain tension then was off. If you are familiar with old CT's you know every 10 or so kicks results in about one actually turning the engine over thanks to the auto clutch--hence the bumpstart. It did actually burble 1st kick & take off & run the very first time I started it. Pushed it up & down the street in gear with the plug out first to circulate the oil & get the oil pump going since it was a complete rebuild. Its not a showroom new, 100pt, all out museum piece, perfect redo but looks like an immaculate original which is what I wanted. Took way longer than I wanted--over 1 year & spent way too much but luckily the parts bikes I acquired offset the cost considerably.
Yes honked the horn on 2 different occations--it sounds weak but at least makes some sound, some of it is because the battery is 0%; the magneto can run pretty much everything while is running if you don't mind weak output & dimming.
Had to re watch video to see what you meant about street-was just leaves. When I hit the manhole you can hear grunt due to primitive suspension.
Have not wheelied it, have done the yellow one on page 1 many times.
It is the 5th or 6th one all trying to find one "good enough". Its not so much that this one is great as it is I quit. Even the lens on it now has some cracks but the bare lens next to it from one of the previous four or five is good so I will use it. Need to get it cleaned up & mounted.
! Im working on a k0 myself! Thanks again!
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