Yeah, I realize this probably isn't the right place for this thread, but honestly, it didn't fit any of the off-topic sections either.
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1968 Impala 4-Door from the original owner for $1,500.
I have not seen it yet, but my uncle (big into cars and has several pre-49 cars/trucks) says it is in excellent condition.
The good...
- 100% stock
- 1 owner
- Always garage kept
- towels kept over seats
- only one small rust spot
The bad...
- Motor needs to be rebuilt
I have most, if not all, the tools required to rebuild the engine and I don't see that as a major expense or problem. The motor is smoking badly (burning oil). My uncle, the big car guy, said it likely needs about $500 put into a rebuild kit for the engine and it will be ready to go. After that, I could patch and paint the small rust spot, then just have fun taking the family to cruise-ins and drive it on occasion.
I would do it. On the motor, often, it's just valve seals. I would pull the heads, have a machine shop do a quality valve job, new valves, seats. guides, springs. New cam. lifters, timing chain. You can do all this without pulling the motor. Flush the motor while you have the top end off to get rid of any sludge in the pan. You may find it runs beautifully with no more oil burning. If not, then you need to bore it, new pistons, rings & bearings, oil pump. Worst case, you put maybe $2K into it and you have an all-original classic. Another option is to just drop a crate motor into it but keep the stocker. The value is much higher if you have all the original parts.
If I had the garage space and time, I'd be all over it. However I just bought a house and my garage is full of half-finished projects or the tools to complete said projects so my cage gets to sit in the driveway until I get enough of the inside done to clean up the garage the rest of the way...
That being said one of my buddies had a Biscayne a few years back (impala clone) from the same era as yours. He sold it after I moved away for less than he paid. I wanted to kill him for it. It was mostly original (tires and wheels had been changed, originals were in the trunk) and ran like a top after I gave it a tune-up.
man iwould jump on that . lucas oil treatment,if it doesnt work then you rebuild.dont pass up the oportunity to own a real american classic. do it,do it!!!!
How much to ship to New Zealand and do you take PayPal?
I'd be on that quicker than I'd be on Selma Hayek if she turned up on my door step wearing a slinky little nightie. (FYI the reduced speed of being all over Selma is due to asking permission from Mrs B first!).
I would do it. On the motor, often, it's just valve seals. I would pull the heads, have a machine shop do a quality valve job, new valves, seats. guides, springs. New cam. lifters, timing chain. You can do all this without pulling the motor. Flush the motor while you have the top end off to get rid of any sludge in the pan. You may find it runs beautifully with no more oil burning. If not, then you need to bore it, new pistons, rings & bearings, oil pump. Worst case, you put maybe $2K into it and you have an all-original classic. Another option is to just drop a crate motor into it but keep the stocker. The value is much higher if you have all the original parts.
Almost.
On old engines like that, the rings will be gone. They used soft iron rings. Think also of the oils of the day.
Check the cylinder wall clearances.
If they are not overly loose, simply use a ridge reamer to knock down the ridge at the top, then use a hand hone to deglaze, and then throw in a new set of old fashioned cast iron rings. This may sound bush league, but your intent is not to build a low leakdown engine, and mark my words, if you do the heads real well, as is good seating, guides and seals, and don't do the rings, you will be shocked at how much oil gets sucked past the old weorn out rings. You can have an oil burner worse than before the head rebuild.
That is an absolute no-brainer, specially if you have the time and the means to do the job yourself. If not to have a completely original 68 impala in your fleet, do it to make an easy $20-30k.
Almost.
On old engines like that, the rings will be gone. They used soft iron rings. Think also of the oils of the day.
Check the cylinder wall clearances.
If they are not overly loose, simply use a ridge reamer to knock down the ridge at the top, then use a hand hone to deglaze, and then throw in a new set of old fashioned cast iron rings. This may sound bush league, but your intent is not to build a low leakdown engine, and mark my words, if you do the heads real well, as is good seating, guides and seals, and don't do the rings, you will be shocked at how much oil gets sucked past the old weorn out rings. You can have an oil burner worse than before the head rebuild.
I've been modding SBCs for 40 years and my experience differs dramatically from yours. Usually a good top end rebuild gets 'em purring like a kitten with no oil burn.
Most people automatically think rings when they burn oil - popular misconception.
If you stick to a 2:1 ratio of top end to bottom end rebuilds, you'll save a ton of wasted time and money on bottom end rebuilds - in my experience.
I've been modding SBCs for 40 years and my experience differs dramatically from yours. Usually a good top end rebuild gets 'em purring like a kitten with no oil burn.
Most people automatically think rings when they burn oil - popular misconception.
If you stick to a 2:1 ratio of top end to bottom end rebuilds, you'll save a ton of wasted time and money on bottom end rebuilds - in my experience.
I have lasting memories of decades ago when someone else did a set of heads that badly needed doing, but ignored the pistons and rings. The job was a return in short order, the engine literally sucking oil past the rings and burning oil at a higher rate that before the head job. I think your observation is valid most of the time, I'm just trying to underscore the need to determining the rings are OK to leave as is, and not just blindly assume they are OK - which I know you are not suggesting. And you are spot on about most people erroneously assuming just rings when oil is burning, when in most cases it's intake guide related, be it seals and/or valve and guide wear.
I've been modding SBCs for 40 years and my experience differs dramatically from yours. Usually a good top end rebuild gets 'em purring like a kitten with no oil burn.
Most people automatically think rings when they burn oil - popular misconception.
If you stick to a 2:1 ratio of top end to bottom end rebuilds, you'll save a ton of wasted time and money on bottom end rebuilds - in my experience.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcromo44
I have lasting memories of decades ago when someone else did a set of heads that badly needed doing, but ignored the pistons and rings. The job was a return in short order, the engine literally sucking oil past the rings and burning oil at a higher rate that before the head job. I think your observation is valid most of the time, I'm just trying to underscore the need to determining the rings are OK to leave as is, and not just blindly assume they are OK - which I know you are not suggesting. And you are spot on about most people erroneously assuming just rings when oil is burning, when in most cases it's intake guide related, be it seals and/or valve and guide wear.
You two can argue whatever you want, but the short of it is like this for me...if I'm going to have a 42 year old engine on the stand, I'm going to give it a solid once-over versus pulling it again. Might even have it bored .030" while I'm at it.
Being that I have 3 young kids at home (3 yrs, 14 months, 4 weeks) and the hospital bills are just rolling in for #3, I don't know that I can justify the rather small expense.
However, my father-in-law's first car was a 1968 Impala 4-door so maybe he will buy it, let me fix it, then sell it to me on the cheap and consider the engine rebuild as cash value towards the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by serpiente
a 64 Impala would be better.
Sure, but one isn't on my doorstep for $1,500.
Maybe I'll call my other uncle to see if he is ready to sell the 1969 Camaro rotting in his driveway. I know it is a 2 owner car, all original with a 327. Problem is, he's had it for 30+ years and can't cut the sentimental attachment even though he has no idea how to fix it, nor does he have the cash to pay someone to do it for him. Thus...it rots in his driveway.
Yeah, I realize this probably isn't the right place for this thread, but honestly, it didn't fit any of the off-topic sections either.
I have an opportunity to purchase a 1968 Impala 4-Door from the original owner for $1,500.
I have not seen it yet, but my uncle (big into cars and has several pre-49 cars/trucks) says it is in excellent condition.
The good...
- 100% stock
- 1 owner
- Always garage kept
- towels kept over seats
- only one small rust spot
The bad...
- Motor needs to be rebuilt
I have most, if not all, the tools required to rebuild the engine and I don't see that as a major expense or problem. The motor is smoking badly (burning oil). My uncle, the big car guy, said it likely needs about $500 put into a rebuild kit for the engine and it will be ready to go. After that, I could patch and paint the small rust spot, then just have fun taking the family to cruise-ins and drive it on occasion.
I heard back that her brother has gotten involved with the sale and he thinks she should take no less than $2,000. Darn family. Have to see how this plays out. An extra 500 isn't much, but I feel that the car in running condition is probably worth no more than $3,000. I have to put in $500 for machine work and a rebuild kit (at least) plus my own labor.
Like stated, if you do the heads, it will smoke worse.
Also BUY THE CAR!
And only if you do a Nut and Bolt restoration, it will not be worth anywhere near 25-30K, but it does have value due to origional owner. I would pull the engine, new rings and if needed pistons, freshen the heads and go, try not to harm the origional paint on the engine, leave it old looking.
also what is it?
307/PGlide?
my Brother had a 2 door with the 327/TH400 same color green as the picture, bought from the origional owner back in 1992, paid 400 bucks and it did not smoke, cold AC it was perfect down to the clear plastic bumpy seat covers. The owners went to the old folks home, and he got a DEAL!
Good Luck!
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Bikes I own:
New addition 1978 CB750Four
2006 919
1994 home built springer
1984 KLR 600
1953 Servi-car (I gotta get this put back together)
1942 WLA (Gotta finish this one as well)
1985 Honda 200M ATC
1985 Honda ATC 70
1997 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4X4 ATV
Early 1984 Ironhead Sporty (Wife has laid claim to this bike)
1986 Sporty that I am putting a ironhead engine into
YEA BIGDAA I Gotta GUN!
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Nex Question: DID YOU BUY IT OR WHAT?
Not yet. Her brother got involved and thinks she should take more money. Giving her. Few days to think about it. Hopefully I'll know something Monday or Tuesday.
I'm in the middle of fixing my wife's truck right mow so there is no room in the garage. Did you guys know a 5.3L V8 is a pain to remove the intake manifold?
Nothing to report. My uncle is working the deal. I'll just be the recipient of the car. I talked to him on Thursday and there was no new news.
On a side note, I did some minor engine work in my wife's Envoy (5.3L V8). I had to remove the wire harness and intake manifold so I could replace the knock sensors. I'm ready for an internal engine project.
That is an absolute no-brainer, specially if you have the time and the means to do the job yourself. If not to have a completely original 68 impala in your fleet, do it to make an easy $20-30k.
Getting that for a 4 door will be tough.
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