Took the Tinman back out to the track Friday night. the weather has cancelled MULTIPLE Sundays of racing, so i took advantage of a test and tune session to try out my latest configuration. first off, driving El Civico loaded with The Tinman during everybody else's Friday going-home commute does NOT help the flow of highway traffic. Too many gawkers holding up the left lane for my comfort. but i got to the track with no problems.
anyway, i've got a new set of Michelin Power Ones at home, so i did an intentionally raucus burnout in second gear, and proceeded to lay down a pretty strong non nitrous run right out of the gate.
eh. i don't know how to "narrate" and illustrate as i go, so here's my progression of time slips. i picked up .16 seconds and 5 mph from my past "personal bests".
so once again if anyone has PROOF of a quicker 919 anywhere in the world, i'd like to see it. otherwise, behold! "The World's Quickest Hornet".
yes: on the juice. either nitrous bottle heaters really do suck SO much juice that my bike was starting to run poorly by the end of the night, or i damaged a spark plug, or... we shall see. got to pull the plugs and put a new battery in the borescope.
Quickest didn't yield any interesting results...just more links back to WristTwisters. I'd say your title is safe. You sure you don't want a place in the gangbang record books?
Looks like you are running the same sprockets I just ordered. Are you running stock gearing?
#520 tri-metal rear 16/46.
i am close to running out of gearing in the quarter, but i'm going to leave it for now as my new tire will be a tad taller. i can always throw in a 17 nice and easy.
"the turkey pan".
purchased from Anchorage Restaurant Supply.
in case the turkey that engineered and installed the nitrous system decides to make giblets of his engine at 140 mph. it'll possibly keep my rear tire dry till i get down to a paltry 120. it's got a couple shop-soaker absorbancy diapers glued in.
"the turkey pan".
purchased from Anchorage Restaurant Supply.
in case the turkey that engineered and installed the nitrous system decides to make giblets of his engine at 140 mph. it'll possibly keep my rear tire dry till i get down to a paltry 120. it's got a couple shop-soaker absorbancy diapers glued in.
LOLS
i figured it was something of the sort.... i say make some fairings to make it a lil more areodynamic!
yeah, and once i put some fairings on it, i should put a hayabusa frame and engine in it.
THEN i'd have a quick Hornet !
(sarcasm. it's a naked bike. i feel like i'm cheating just with the little flyscreen on it already)
(but i bet that having the turkey pan on the bike is more aero than not ! )
I salute you and your 10.1 hornet! Get it to the 9s and show us some vids!
Do you think being the 919 isn't the most aerodynamic bike, putting fairings on (if they made them) help your time a bit? Or is that just not a factor in a 1/4 mile for bikes?
aero matters, but i'm choosing to do this with a naked bike. there's no reason i can't get nines without bodywork.
i had my nitrous window switch turning the juice off at 9500 rpms to be a little less hard on the engine. i'm sure that on my 10.10 run, i'd run it past the nitrous in a couple gears, most importantly the system had turned back off as i cut across the finish line. assuming everything else is okay, i'm going to reset the "off" window to 9750 rpms, and if that doesn't get me nines, i'm going to stretch it to 10,000.
aero matters, but i'm choosing to do this with a naked bike. there's no reason i can't get nines without bodywork.
i had my nitrous window switch turning the juice off at 9500 rpms to be a little less hard on the engine. i'm sure that on my 10.10 run, i'd run it past the nitrous in a couple gears, most importantly the system had turned back off as i cut across the finish line. assuming everything else is okay, i'm going to reset the "off" window to 9750 rpms, and if that doesn't get me nines, i'm going to stretch it to 10,000.
Aero:
Butt back on the seat, not forward, back flat.
This is best aero attack for naked bikes based on windtunnel work back in the 70s and early 80s.
Doing a dirt track grab on the left fork leg instead of the bar end ?
Is your cam stock ?
The HP over rev is usually good to 9400 or so, with peak around 9100.
At least on gasoline, no juice, good exhaust and custom mapped.
Have you done gear thrust calcs to get your optimal shift points for your engine as co-ordinated with actual gearing and tire height.
I've got a slick spreadsheet that I can't remember where came from, either SportRider or rc51.org.
If you don't have, but want it, send me a PM with an e mail address that will accept a xls sheet attachment.
this was my most encouraging....strike that, LEAST DIScouraging nitrous outing yet.
i made a vow to get into the nines. in the words of REO SPeedwagon, "keep pushing on". good song live, btw.
10.1 is respectable in my book for any bike. Sure theres bikes that'll do it but 97% of the owners can't. Good job sir your makin me wanna go back to the track... haven't been in years!
mcromo, nearly none of that applies to me but thanks for your words of encouragment.
my cam is not stock, nor is my other cam.
sans nitrous, my engine is still gaining power when it hits the rev limiter at 10,200 rpms.
Is there some way you can bump the limiter up to help you along?
How radical a valve train build did you do ?
Spring and retainers etc along with the camS?
What kind of valve train rev limit do you think your build gives you?
What is your launch method for the 919?
I know zero about that, and am curious as to what you are doing which obviously works.
Are you using a shift mechanism type quick shifter ?
Something else?
I'll bet you can find that tenth plus a hair so you can crack the 9s.
i guess the troubles i've encountered are why i'm into this challenge. honda took a halfway powerful motor and detuned it. i took said motor and said, "oh YEAH, Honda ?!? We'll see about that!" a 900cc naked bike engine is NO starting place for a 9 second drag bike, but with enough arm-twisting...
modern z06 corvettes make about the same power, weigh about 3100 pounds, and go more than a second slower. that 'Cuda must have been a flyweight.
i really can't ride for s***. can't ride out a controlled wheelie. can't clutch one up either. i'm slow as hell in an Enduro. but i'm doing okay drag racing and enjoying it. when you launch hard and pull a sub 1.7 second 60-foot time and that front wheel is just hovering? when i'm rockin' the nitrous, and each stab of the shifter (with dynojet quickshifter) elicits a loud, flaming "POP!" out the exhaust, and another rush of acceleration? it's just heaven. an odd tranquility in such hectic circumstances. everything just flows.
mc, i'm not going to pursue higher rpms. i've chosen to increase bmep with nitrous and some basic breathing enhancements, but don't want to tax the rotating/recicprocating parts any more than that. stock con rods, valves, springs, retainers. i didn't build it for more revs. nothing about this engine is "radical". the only "trickness" to it is Swain Tech coatings on piston crowns, skirts, valve faces, and combustion chamber.
Erion cams, allegedly similar to cbr-rr cams, but that's not what my degree wheel told me. very mild porting. compression close to stock.
launch method is nothing fancy, and like everything i do, not very regimented/consistant. basically launch by ear, probably around 6-7,000 rpms. the only "method" that i use is to try to ignore what i know about physics and clutch wear. what i do to the clutch on a good launch would normally fit my definition of "abuse" but our clutches are quite good and up to the task. ie, you have to slip the clutch so that rpms don't dip below the 6-7K that i had on the line.
at the line i keep my left foot on the peg, unlike most drag racers i've seen. that way my foot is on the shifter and ready for the 1-2, which comes up pretty quickly with a hard launch and the short gearing i run. yes, i have a dynojet quickshift.
like i said, i was revving beyond the nitrous activation window which was shutting down at 9,500. assuming i didn't hurt my motor, my next step is going to be letting the nitrous flow to 9,750 which i SHOULD give me enough extra scoot to break nines. if not, i'll keep it flowing to 10k.
mc, i'm not going to pursue higher rpms. i've chosen to increase bmep with nitrous and some basic breathing enhancements, but don't want to tax the rotating/recicprocating parts any more than that. stock con rods, valves, springs, retainers. i didn't build it for more revs. nothing about this engine is "radical". the only "trickness" to it is Swain Tech coatings on piston crowns, skirts, valve faces, and combustion chamber.
Erion cams, allegedly similar to cbr-rr cams, but that's not what my degree wheel told me. very mild porting. compression close to stock.
launch method is nothing fancy, and like everything i do, not very regimented/consistant. basically launch by ear, probably around 6-7,000 rpms. the only "method" that i use is to try to ignore what i know about physics and clutch wear. what i do to the clutch on a good launch would normally fit my definition of "abuse" but our clutches are quite good and up to the task. ie, you have to slip the clutch so that rpms don't dip below the 6-7K that i had on the line.
at the line i keep my left foot on the peg, unlike most drag racers i've seen. that way my foot is on the shifter and ready for the 1-2, which comes up pretty quickly with a hard launch and the short gearing i run. yes, i have a dynojet quickshift.
like i said, i was revving beyond the nitrous activation window which was shutting down at 9,500. assuming i didn't hurt my motor, my next step is going to be letting the nitrous flow to 9,750 which i SHOULD give me enough extra scoot to break nines. if not, i'll keep it flowing to 10k.
Interesting read and thanks for the details and insights. My guess is that you shift just short of hitting the limiter, which on mine is around 10,200. Why not just set it for flow to 10,000 and not even bother with the 9750 step, which is surely before your shift point and means a power dip before the next gear change or your pull to top end?
Ever had it dyno'd ?
If so, the curves would be most interesting to see.
Another aero possibility.
Put a clip-on on the left fork leg and use that for your hand position part way into the run.
Go there once in 3rd or just after into 4th?
Would give you leverage if you need it, noting you don't need the clutch lever once you've launched.
"Why not just set it for flow to 10,000 and not even bother with the 9750 step"
i'm jetted for a 100-shot of nitrous. i've just built an approx. $6k motor. i'm picking and choosing some attempts at a safety net for the engine. i've not dynoed it on nitrous. i'm not going to chase the aero route. putting a bikini fairing on didn't appreciably affect e.t. , and i'm not going to ride it one handed. for one thing, the horn button is the nitrous system arming switch, turning on the aux. fuel pump and sending power to the rpm window switch. i've got my reasons behind what i do or don't do. not necessarily hard rock logic, but i've made my bed.
really, my next step would be to add an air shifter with automatic control but i prefer shifting myself and doing it the hard way.
ain't she sweet? she's a little ratty...just a daily driver for one of the crew on that sbc blown Fiat Topolino behind it. when i was at the track friday i looked around and noticed, "hey! there's a couple good pix here!"
unfortunately, NOT a pic of a 9 second time slip yet.
dropped off my rims and Michelin Power Ones for a dismount/mount this morning, and my two bottles of juice are filled back up and ready for combat. i sure hope i didn't hurt my motor... you think a dead-short type nitrous bottle heater being on all night might have dropped the voltage to the ECU enough to cause a rough idle? we shall see !
"Why not just set it for flow to 10,000 and not even bother with the 9750 step"
i'm jetted for a 100-shot of nitrous. i've just built an approx. $6k motor. i'm picking and choosing some attempts at a safety net for the engine. i've not dynoed it on nitrous. i'm not going to chase the aero route. putting a bikini fairing on didn't appreciably affect e.t. , and i'm not going to ride it one handed. for one thing, the horn button is the nitrous system arming switch, turning on the aux. fuel pump and sending power to the rpm window switch. i've got my reasons behind what i do or don't do. not necessarily hard rock logic, but i've made my bed.
really, my next step would be to add an air shifter with automatic control but i prefer shifting myself and doing it the hard way.
You've clearly thunk it all through.
You'll find that tenth !
i may not have thunk it through CORRECTLY, but i've come to the conclusions i have and am moving forward with a plan. yes, i can almost taste those elusive 9's. i can't wait to feel some real, top notch, sticky race rubber under me. The Shinko rear was FAIR, but not as sticky as it should be, compared to the Michelin Sport Touring rubber that came on the bike.
i may not have thunk it through CORRECTLY, but i've come to the conclusions i have and am moving forward with a plan. yes, i can almost taste those elusive 9's. i can't wait to feel some real, top notch, sticky race rubber under me. The Shinko rear was FAIR, but not as sticky as it should be, compared to the Michelin Sport Touring rubber that came on the bike.
There's got to be tenthS by a rear tire change alone if that's what you are running !
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