G & J called, they have my OEM lines. They are now ready to take orders.
These prices are the best I have ever seen.
$54.00 for (2) Front lines/with color covering + longer banjo bolt + banjo washers
$22.00 for (1) Rear line/with color covering + banjo washers
$70.00 for the kit which includes the Front lines, Rear line, banjo bolt, and banjo washers.
You can call G & J directly at (909) 986 6534. Tell them you are a Wrist Twister member.
A big round of applause goes out to Rob Tharalson for laying the ground work with G & J.
Sweeeeet. Just ordered a front/rear set in smoke! Can't beat the price.
Rob, I'll have to grab an old innertube, a hunk of lexan, and a drill tap in the size of my Mity-vac hose (though not quite clear on what to use for a fitting). Your brake-bleeding method, or at least my interpretation of it, sounds extremely try-worthy.
Sweeeeet. Just ordered a front/rear set in smoke! Can't beat the price.
Rob, I'll have to grab an old innertube, a hunk of lexan, and a drill tap in the size of my Mity-vac hose (though not quite clear on what to use for a fitting). Your brake-bleeding method, or at least my interpretation of it, sounds extremely try-worthy.
1- can you post pics of the smoke when you get em on there. I'm sure that's what I'll go with, but would really like to see em first.
2- and any tricks you can pass along in bleeding em out would be great too!
Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemo
Sweeeeet. Just ordered a front/rear set in smoke! Can't beat the price.
Rob, I'll have to grab an old innertube, a hunk of lexan, and a drill tap in the size of my Mity-vac hose (though not quite clear on what to use for a fitting). Your brake-bleeding method, or at least my interpretation of it, sounds extremely try-worthy.
Actually, if you still have the tapered fittings most mityvac kits come with all you have to do is drill a good clean 1/8" hole through the plate and push the cone in until it seals. Make sure the cone doesn't protrude far enough into the reservior to vacuum brake fluid into the hand unit, or use the drain collector bottle to catch overflow.
Infinitely adjustable, made of the finest materials available, and completely sourced from local suppliers -- gotta support the local economy! Order today and know handlebar Nirvana.
1- can you post pics of the smoke when you get em on there. I'm sure that's what I'll go with, but would really like to see em first.
2- and any tricks you can pass along in bleeding em out would be great too!
I'll post pix once the lines arrive; heck, maybe I'll do a photo-show of the install. Looking forward to a little affordable, functional bling.
as for bleeding, here's Rob Tharlson's method from the thread in the general section:
Quote:
For years, I have been using this method of bleeding brakes on motorcycles and cars, and it has always worked well, even when starting with a dry system. It is very effective when replacing lines with braided, wastes practically no fluid, and takes (once you make the adapter needed) about 2 minutes.
You will need a Mightyvac or some other controllable vacuum source and a clear plexiglass or Lexan plate large enough to cover the top of the reservoir. Contact cement a piece of inner tube rubber (you remember inner tubes?) to the plate to provide a seal against the reservoir, remembering to leave some clear exposed so you can see what's going on. Drill and tap (or glue, use a gun drilled bolt and nut, whatever, as long as it seals) for a fitting to attach the vacuum hose, and thoroughly clean and dry everything.
1 -- If replacing the lines, drain the fluid, install the lines, and make sure they are routed and tightened properly.
2 -- Clean the master cylinder reservoir and fill about 2/3 with fresh fluid.
3 -- Place the plate on top of the reservoir and secure with some wire -- not too tightly, just to hold it in place.
4 -- Apply a vacuum to the system slowly. You will see air bubbling through the fluid, but the level should not drop much. Stop as soon as you have applied as much vacuum as you can -- it does not need a "hard" vacuum, about 23 inches HG should be sufficient.
5 -- Release the vacuum. The fluid level should drop significantly, in fact the first time it may empty the reservoir.
6 -- Refill the reservoir and repeat steps 3 through 5.
7 -- By the third cycle, you should not see any air bubbles.
8 -- Refill the reservoir again and pump up the brakes -- the vacuum usually retracts the pistons completely. Top up the reservoir, apply the brakes as hard as you usually do, and check for leaks. You should have as firm a lever as you have ever felt!
Notes:
-- If the master cylinder is angled down, it helps to get it as close to horizontal as possible to give air an easier escape route.
-- Sometims, fluid will be drawn up the vacuum hose, so make sure it does not get into the pump by using a long downward "U" loop of hose.
-- If and when you try this, post the results, especially if you have problems -- some calipers, Brembos particularly, can be very difficult to remove air from.
The 919 has "budget" brake lines. Once you go stainless, you'll never settle for rubber again. The time is now. I'm sure Rob's method works well, but the old slower way of "pump and hold" will get the job done also.
Ordered mine today (front smoke) $62 and change with tax and shipping. This should make it easier to change the bars later, but I still need a xrmikey clamp!
THANKS ROB
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Ordered mine today (front smoke) $62 and change with tax and shipping. This should make it easier to change the bars later, but I still need a xrmikey clamp!
THANKS ROB
I haven't forgot. There just doesn't seem to be any light at the end of the tunnel these days. which is a good thing, but I want to get some guides made.
Got the lines in smoke, and they look great.
The longer banjo bolt included with the kit is for the upper banjo fitting, where the hose joins the brake master cylinder, yes?
The stock front brake lines have a Y-splitter that splits the front line (single at the banjo bolt fitting to the brake master cylinder) into 2 lines that route to each caliper. The SS lines are separate, and dispense with the Y splitter fitting, implying that both lines attach (in a stacked fashion) to the longer fitting supplied with the G&J kit, to the master cylinder banjo fitting.
Got the lines in smoke, and they look great.
The longer banjo bolt included with the kit is for the upper banjo fitting, where the hose joins the brake master cylinder, yes?
Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,748
Here ya go.
Visited G&J today and asked if they would make me a set of lines in smoke color to check length and fit, which they did in about 20 minutes(!) I trial fit them on my '02 with stock bars and found the length and fitting angles to be about right. I certainly hope you appreciate the 200 freeway miles I had to go to do this.
----------Front lines-----------------
First, the front lines at the master:
If possible, extend the forks fully when fitting the lines to insure sufficient length to prevent stressing the lines in normal operation.
As you see, both lines attach to the longer banjo bolt, obviously with copper washers at each joint. They seem to want to route through the cutout in the right headlight stay. From there, they both curve down to the center of the lower triple clamp where the stock splitter bolts. This is where Xrmikey's clamp bolts (or ADEL clamps for the xrmikey clamp challenged. More on this later). From there, they diverge to each side. I recommend specifying stainless ferrules when ordering. The banjos are chromed steel.
This routing is approximate as I did not unbolt anything while fitting. Preferably, the lines should be angled toward their respective sides.
You will probably not want to use the stock lower guides, just let the lines take a natural curve to the calipers.
The left side:
Right side:
I recommend the lines be generally routed, then fitted to the calipers first and temporarily tightened to hold their angle. As you can see, the angled banjo goes to the calipers. Now attach the upper fittings to the master cylinder -- one banjo is straight and the other is angled slightly to clear the ferrules. Be sure the ferrules don't contact each other when the blot is run in. From here all that is left to do is tighten them down just enough to seal them and bleed out the system.
------Rear line----------
This is simpler. Follow the routing of the original line, paying attention to the angled banjo.
The master end:
The caliper end:
Pretty straightforward.
I am assured that the fittings can be rotated on the line by grasping the ferrule with a pair of pliers and gently rotating -- as the barbs on the crimp ends are rounded and circumfrential to the bore, they can be rotated fairly easily, and will also self rotate in use to compensate for stresses or twisting.
----------- AN fittings / ends -------------
One image of the ends on the lines they made for me.
In order for this to work, there must be a manifold at the master:
I machined this from a scrap of 7075 T6-51 aluminum I had lying around. The fittings are -3AN to 1/8 pipe epoxied into the manifold. Teflon tape works as well. If you want AN fittings, you will have to make your own manifold -- I definitely don't have time to make them for you.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
There you have it. Oh, and the lines pictured will be shipped to the next order for smoke color.
Infinitely adjustable, made of the finest materials available, and completely sourced from local suppliers -- gotta support the local economy! Order today and know handlebar Nirvana.
Thanks Rob for all your help. I got my lines 2 weeks ago. I haven't install them yet, but will real soon. G&J gave me fast service I ordered them on a Monday, and had them Friday! thats good, from CA to NY.
Rob,
Many, many thanks for your effort and documentation here. I zip-tied mine last night and saw no difficulties--the G&J lines are perhaps a hair longer than stock. Turning stock bars lock to lock produced no tension.
However, I discovered a problem I hadn't anticipated--the longer fitting to the master cylinder will interfere with the bar mounting rod on my big Givi windshield. I'm not willing to give up the big shield in this weather, so I'll try to move it out of the way tonight.
Rob,
Thanks again for all your work on this.
I just called and spoke to Zack (spelling?) and he was very helpful.
I ordered black lines with black aluminum banjo ends and a couple ADEL clamps (until I can get an XRmikey clamp!)
It was a little more expensive for the black ends, $84 I think he said, but still less than the other brands.
He said they'd make them & ship them today! That's service.
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Four wheels move the body ... two wheels move the soul.
Ordered a set of smoke lines, by the way can anybody help me figure out the xrmikey clamp deal? Confused unable to locate direct posting. Also why is my signature not posting?
Ordered a set of smoke lines, by the way can anybody help me figure out the xrmikey clamp deal? Confused unable to locate direct posting. Also why is my signature not posting?
The famous xrmikey brake line holder. Sig. appears to be showing.
Stupid question (hey I'm a computer geek). I got a little bag with 11 little copper washers. I assume that they go like this:
1 copper washer on each side of all the fitting head plus a copper washer between the two fittings at the handlebar reservoir end?
2 washers at rear brake caliper
2 washers at rear brake reservoir
2 washers at right front caliper
2 washers at left front caliper
Washer fitting washer fitting washer at the handlebar reservoir?
Oh, and make sure you ask for 1.25" banjo bolt; they gave me the 1.5"
Good thing they're open on Saturdays; I don't feel like trimming the wrong bolt
Gotta run.
Oh, and make sure you ask for 1.25" banjo bolt; they gave me the 1.5"
Good thing they're open on Saturdays; I don't feel like trimming the wrong bolt
Gotta run.
The bolt they sent me is 1-1/2" overall, 1-1/4" without the head and has 1/2" of threads. Is this the correct bolt?
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'02 Honda 919 - She's the only one for me!
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