Pretty sure I've read a thread about using Buell pegs too. However your engine may start leaking if you do this....... (Harley part, hahaha).
Another trick would be to make your self a sheepskin cover for the seat - cust the shape to suit and sew on some elastic to go under the seat to retain it. It will give a higher seat and they are a NZ proven trick for long distance comfort. You can also buy univerdal gell covers that would do a similar trick.
Another trick would be to make your self a sheepskin cover for the seat - cust the shape to suit and sew on some elastic to go under the seat to retain it. It will give a higher seat and they are a NZ proven trick for long distance comfort. You can also buy univerdal gell covers that would do a similar trick.
Sheep are the cure for everything including lack of girlfriend in NZ aren't they Alan?
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I come from the land Down Under, Where the women blow and the men thunder!!
not sure if i could justify a harley part on my bike!!!
haha
BaaaHaaaa, I like that!
I do have the Buell footpeg swap on mine, and it's not to bad to do. Get some little white delrin/plastic style bushings from Ace Hardware to take up the gap between 919 footpeg pin and the hole on the buell peg. Grind about a 1/4" off the radius of the underside corner so the peg will lay at a 90deg angle to the bike, really easy to do with a grinding wheel, just take off a little at a time and keep re-test fitting till you get it perfect. Took me about 30 minutes to do both sides, not bad at all. I did go ahead and make a little bracket out of aluminum bar stock and some nuts/bolts to mount my rear brake master from, thereby moving it up about 1/4", which drops the rear brake pedal into the perfect position when you have these footpegs. There's plenty of adjustability in the 9'ers shift rod, and no extensions should be needed. I'm 6'1", with a 34" inseam, and my knees were originally riding right at the big ridge in the tank. With these pegs my knee is perfectly tucked under the lower buldge in the tank, and I get great grip on my tank pads now. Made the ride much more comfortable for me, and did it for less than $100. I chose to do all grinding and/or metalwork on the pegs themselves, that way the bike can be returned to original if desired. I did get the Ulysess version from these guys BUELL ULYSSES XB12XT BLACK RIDER FOOTPEGS N0006.1AK and totally love them. I've had them on for a couple years now, and no issues at all, they even survived my low side slide perfectly, folded back just like designed and were not damaged. Oh, and no spooky unexplaned leakage from anywhere yet either, or undesireable vibes.....course thats probably cuz I used plastic bushings for in between the pin and peg which helps to isolate the vibes....Anyway, great/cheap mod that another member here turned me onto a few years back, and with a little creativity it works wonderfully
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Spoiler:
ALL PARTS HAVE ARRIVED....let the wrenching begin!!!
My 9'er had a low side slide.....She's down but not out......and about to rise from the ashes!
Currently:
2004 Honda 919 Silver
599 Headlight
Buell M2 shield
Givi Crash bars
Dynojet PCIII
Akrapovic exhaust - GSXR shorty CF
Seat with gel insert and re-shape
Custom LED Rear lights w/ vizi-tech flasher
Competition Works Fender Eliminator
Front 3-way LED Turn Signals flushmount
6-Spoke wheel conversion ( 900rr / F3 )
Michelin Pilot Road 3 - New @ 19940 8/10/11
Dyna Beads for tire balancing
17t / 44t Sprockets
Piaa horns 400 & 500 hertz
Ohlins rear shock from an F3, Re-Valved/Sprung
F4i Forks, custom sprung/sealed
ASV levers - Black W/Red Adj.
Tech-Spec custom tank Pads
Napoleon bar end mirrors
SW-Motech center stand
Custom one-off Bars W/Heat
FuzeBlocks FZ-1 Power Distribution
RC51 front brakes w/Bremzen pads-10 button rotors
Buell Ulysses Foot Peg conversion
etc, etc,
Why not just do what Allan/pdx-luda did and fabricate some kind of extended hanger that will take the stock pegs to a lower. Minimum cost as you're basically re-using all the stock parts. If you're on a tight budget.
No, they are not direct bolt on... yes, you will loose the rear pegs with any rearset change as none are integrated like our OEM front/rear sets.
A small piece of Al. drilled out does the job nicely!
That looks great and was the solution I was thinking of. I have a few questions though...
- How much does it change the peg position from stock? I just put Suburban Machinery bars on as feel like I'm folded in half with stock pegs (maybe I just need to loose weight!) Does it bring your feet up and back?
- Why use F4i parts if you need an adapter? Wouldn't any rearset work with the proper adapter?
- Is there a metal wizard on here who can fab the new brackets for sale?
- How much does it change the peg position from stock? I just put Suburban Machinery bars on as feel like I'm folded in half with stock pegs (maybe I just need to loose weight!) Does it bring your feet up and back?
- Why use F4i parts if you need an adapter? Wouldn't any rearset work with the proper adapter?
- Is there a metal wizard on here who can fab the new brackets for sale?
Thanks a lot for the help!
.. A little, see attached - I mean, as it was was awk holding the camera and parts let alone a ruler, but at least 2" on the peg and 3" on the shifter
... Cost, staying w/ Honda parts too
.... Really? Normally every1 has a buddy (or more) that can hook up shit like this. If it comes to it, I guess I could rip the part off and scan/send it real size - use a hacksaw at that point! lolz