I have already made some in the past. They are cut using a water jet and turn out great. To get the little divits would have to be done at a different shop. For the cost of getting that done isn't worth the money IMO. It takes less than 5 minutes with a drill. I am not sure when they would be ready, just yet. I have been very busy lately, but would have them done by around February.
I have already made some in the past. They are cut using a water jet and turn out great. To get the little divits would have to be done at a different shop. For the cost of getting that done isn't worth the money IMO. It takes less than 5 minutes with a drill. I am not sure when they would be ready, just yet. I have been very busy lately, but would have them done by around February.
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Preschool - Kawasaki 100 enduro
Grade School - Honda CB 125
High School - Honda 400 Hawk
College - Honda VT500 Ascot Real life - Honda 919
They let you leave the reed valves in place. The divit is for the screw(s) on top of the valve. Leaving the reed valve in place lets you utilize it as the gasket. If you remove it, you either have to make your own gasket or just use the liquid gasket stuff.
They let you leave the reed valves in place. The divit is for the screw(s) on top of the valve. Leaving the reed valve in place lets you utilize it as the gasket. If you remove it, you either have to make your own gasket or just use the liquid gasket stuff.
If I'm not mistaken, it's the screws holding the reed valve in place that you need the divets for.
I just used some big ol' pliers and tore out the screws (they do NOT unscrew, I had to snap them off). Then took out the 'reed' but put the rest of the valve, the part with the rubber surround, back in.
Haven't had any issues, although I did want to take them back off and put some silicone gasket stuff on their, just in case.
Too lazy I guess; haven't done it yet. But again, haven't noticed any issues.
So I say buy the plates, tear out the screw, put the reed valve 'casing' back in, and put the plates on. The hardest part was tearing out the old PAIR. Putting the plates on, 10 minutes tops, and that includes ripping out the screws on the reed valve.
I just used some big ol' pliers and tore out the screws (they do NOT unscrew, I had to snap them off). Then took out the 'reed' but put the rest of the valve, the part with the rubber surround, back in.
I had 10 sets of plates ready to go. They are similar to semi_grey's plates. One difference is no divits for screw clearence. You can drill them easy enough. They are not polished, they are sand-blasted which is close to the engine finish. You can paint them or polish them if you so desire. I tried to cut a few corners to keep the costs down for members. I will ship them anywhere in the CONUS or Canada with the 4 shorter bolts you will need for $22. PM me if interested.
So i got impatient and removed the hoses and valve thing inside the frame rails near the steer tube and just capped everthing with 3/8ths rubber vacuum caps. Seems to seal everything up till i get the plates. So in reality you could disable the system for 2 bucks at autozone. The block off plates just clean up the valve cover.
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Preschool - Kawasaki 100 enduro
Grade School - Honda CB 125
High School - Honda 400 Hawk
College - Honda VT500 Ascot Real life - Honda 919
Never knew such things existed. Bling has gone to a depth I never thought possible....lol.
If I put even ONE of those on my bike, it would stick out like a sore thumb. The only thing silver on my bike now is bolt heads. I need to get some new pics uploaded, I think you'd be impressed with round 2 of my powdercoating job.
Just a heads up on the effects of the air/fuel ratio after disablig the pairs system. My wide band reading for idle a/f with a zero value on pc map and pairs system active was 16/1. The idle a/f with zero pc value and pairs disabled is 14/1. I had to drop the idle fuel value by 15 points to get the a/f to around 15/1.
So update on mod ...
retuned map at idle to -8, is runnig nice and smooth now with no stick or gas smell
Got my block off plates today from dan kyle racing. Thy came in black and includes the new shorter screws i need and some sweet kyle racing stickers. Should have them installed wihin the hour
So update on mod ...
retuned map at idle to -8, is runnig nice and smooth now with no stick or gas smell
Got my block off plates today from dan kyle racing. Thy came in black and includes the new shorter screws i need and some sweet kyle racing stickers. Should have them installed wihin the hour
Now where should i put the stickers ...
Do the block off plates from Kyle Racing have the recesses for the screw heads?
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The places my 919 has taken me:
I don't recall if the screws might have been JAS instead of Phillips, but I stripped several of them trying to take them off with phillips screwdrivers and ended up having to drill some out! Indentations would have been appreciated! My plates weren't Dan Kyle's.
I don't recall if the screws might have been JAS instead of Phillips, but I stripped several of them trying to take them off with phillips screwdrivers and ended up having to drill some out! Indentations would have been appreciated! My plates weren't Dan Kyle's.
You can't get them out with a screwdriver; at least none that I tried (did both my VTX and 919). I just used heavy duty pliers and broke them off. Once they broke, both the bottom threaded part and the head came off, and then I just removed the thin metal reed and put the valve (with rubber gasket) back in under the plates. Took about 30 seconds to rip all 4 screws off.
I don't understand what the issue is with the screw heads. This morning I got the bike up on the swingarm stand and started pulling it apart. My main project was to replace the 28k plugs, but I had bought some blockoff plates beforehand. They did not have the indents for the screwheads, so once I got the reed valve components to my bench I held the screwhead with a GOOD pair of linesman pliers and unscrewed the screw ALL the way out. So now I had the main part with the rubber gasket minus the reed valve and its retaining clip. I put the main part back into the recess on the cam cover and screwed the nicely painted black plates onto the cam cover. I then replaced the sparkplugs now that I had a LOT more room. I removed all of the PAIR parts and because I didn't have the correct size cap for the airbox, so I cut the air supply pipe under the tank and pushed a plug in backwards into the tube. Used a few black tiewraps to tidy up the loose wiring, dropped the tank and fired it up. Sounds great, no leaks, very happy. I will say that the pipe straps that tighten the tubes onto the inlet manifolds were a little loose. Now was a good time to tighten them. Took about an hour to do it all. The plugs were clean inside the tube , so no oil leaks that I could see. They were all very similar in color and wear, but with the cold starting issue, and 28k on them, I thought it was time that they were changed. My bike has the clicking issue as well, just ignoring it as well, but I was wondering if it may have been the reed valves clicking backwards under high cylinder pressure. Now that they aren't on the bike anymore, I will ride the bike tomorrow and see what happens. More than likely it will still be there. Anyway, my first foray into this bikes workings and all went well.
Just a heads up on the effects of the air/fuel ratio after disablig the pairs system. My wide band reading for idle a/f with a zero value on pc map and pairs system active was 16/1. The idle a/f with zero pc value and pairs disabled is 14/1. I had to drop the idle fuel value by 15 points to get the a/f to around 15/1.
So if I have stock exhaust cans, am I going to need to adjust my idle as well via my power commander after putting the block off plates on?
So if I have stock exhaust cans, am I going to need to adjust my idle as well via my power commander after putting the block off plates on?
The PAIRS block off plates shouldn't affect you fueling at all. The PAIRS system just injects air into your exhaust after combustion. It's supposed to help burn off any remaining fuel and help emissions.
On a side note..if the two Allen head screws that hold on your gas tank are starting to get striped out (like mine were from repeatedly removing the gas tank) the stock PAIR valve bolts are a perfect fit if you replace them with shorter ones for your pair block off covers
This thread was very helpful. I don't have a ton to add but I did install the TPO plates this past weekend which went pretty smoothly. As people have said, these plates do not have indentations so you will either need to remove the little screws or make indentations. I opted to remove the screws since that seemed much easier and I don't envision ever putting the PAIR back on the bike.
One note about those screws, I know people have mentioned snapping them off. The ones from my bike ('05) backed right out by just turning them with some vice grips.
The TPO instructions say to use some sealant around the edge of the plates but I just put the rubber gaskets back in, minus the piece that comes off once you remove the screws. Getting sealant around the inside portion of the plates would have been difficult/messy anyway, because that's not the easiest place to reach. That inside right side bolt is a pain just like everyone has said. A flex joint and a short enough socket made it do-able (the first socket I tried was just a hair too long to get a good fit). Probably obvious but I recommend checking from the opposite side of the bike that the socket is fully secured over the bolt head to avoid stripping it. From the right side, mine looked good at first but it was slipping. From the other side it was clear that it wasn't latched on well. That about sums it up. One nice thing about the TPO plates is that they come with bolts to put the plates on. As people have said, the PAIR bolts are a little too long. They are allen style bolts which may not be everyone's preference. I thought they made installation a little easier as once I finger tightened them most of the way, it was easier to get a little allen wrench over the hard to reach bolt than a socket. I have fairly small hands though.
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