Got some the other day and thought I would share install , Im not a poet here so dont be too critical. Motocyco right up is very close to this one except for I think his has two seperate bolts (could be wrong here) and was written much better , Motovation uses one solid threaded rod and two nylon nuts.
1. Get your stuff together, Drill bit , ( it calls for a 10mm, good luck finding one , I used a 25/64 bit which is 9.92mm close enough), 17mm socket need extension also, blue locktite.The rest is in the package: two frame sliders soild threaded rod and two nuts and two washers.
Lil grease and old towel for catching the shavings was great idea here, thanks Moto
2. Have a beer! (was lil nervous about drilling into frame) +1 more beer
3. Get your drill and start your hole , goes through pretty easy, Moto was dead on here, you only drill through about 20mm here, the center is open .
4.Clean hole and Insert rod ( dont derail )
I measured each one as close as I could about 2 inches (the rod out of each hole), very easy install, as these did not require the tapping of the frame . They seem very sturdy but hope to never find out. Thanks Motocyco for his write up as I was lil nervous about drilling the frame good luck , str8
str8, I liked the motivation slider design but didn't think they were long enough for the protection I wanted. I took some aluminum turned it down and bolted them on, they double as foot rests for the longer rides.
str8 thanks good write up! I was good to try this till you posted that 2nd pic of the drill bit on the frame!! I'm sure the 2 beers helped
iion I hate to rag on your functionallity extra foot pegs pretty good idea thought about it myself but i'm glad you did it not me they kinda look like a whale penis
I've got $20 that says something's going to snap if those things ever get into an even modest get-off. They look too long, have too much leverage. I hope I'm wrong.
The only real crash protection on a 919 is grey matter.
I've got $20 that says something's going to snap if those things ever get into an even modest get-off. They look too long, have too much leverage. I hope I'm wrong.
After taking a 2nd look at the pic I have to agree with Snipe here. At the very least the entire assembly will be bent all to hell which would actually be a good thing if it protects the engine. As long as it doesn't damage the frame too severly. I doubt aluminum is going to absorb an impact the way a more pliable material like delrin will.
__________________
It's a fool who looks for logic in the chambers of the human heart.
str8 thanks good write up! I was good to try this till you posted that 2nd pic of the drill bit on the frame!! I'm sure the 2 beers helped
iion I hate to rag on your functionallity extra foot pegs pretty good idea thought about it myself but i'm glad you did it not me they kinda look like a whale penis
Yeah, I knew with this crowd it was a bold move. I don’t post much but I read allot of stuff on here, most of it is funny BS so I though I would give them some material to work with. I have to admit “whale penis†is pretty funny, but for those who haven’t seen one here ya go. You be the judge.
I've got $20 that says something's going to snap if those things ever get into an even modest get-off. They look too long, have too much leverage. I hope I'm wrong.
The only real crash protection on a 919 is grey matter.
I think the picture makes them look longer then they are. They are only 2 inches longer than the motivation slider. The testing I have done warrants the extra clearance, and with a stainless steel grade 8 SHCS I’ll take the odds of them snapping off. The best part was the price, free except for my labor.
What are the dimensions of the threaded rod? I have engine mounted sliders that look exactly like the motovations, but no white lettering. I want to move them up to the frame. I'll dig through my drill bits and find a 25/64 or 10mm... but I want to make sure I get the correct size rod.
Thanks,
Mike
I know they have insurance worries but I have never felt more clueless about what to do with a product I just received in the mail. This thread definitely helped as I didn't even know where on the frame I would be mounting these.
I am assuming the washer goes between the nut and the slider?
I installed the Motovation sliders and they seem quite sturdy. Had a heck of time time drilling out the frame though, three drill bits later I got it done.
I read you only drill through about 20 mm. So ONLY go through the frame and not into the engine itself right??
There is no engine behind there to drill through. You are drilling the frame only - increasing the standard 8mm Honda hole to 10 mm to fit the larger threaded rod through.
Of interest David Silver Spares is presently discounting the genuine Honda crash knobs. It is however a shame that they are white not black! These require no drilling as they will be a direct fit to the stock frame holes. 45 pounds plus shipping to where you live.
well, i have to say that the frame sliders are a bad idea. i got hit by a car last weekend and my bike went down, the frame sliders did more damage than if they hadn't been there at all. [IMG][/IMG]
That's an engine mounted slider, not a frame mounted slider. A known issue. Sorry for your luck that sucks.
I was going to refer you to the helpful topics, but mr. mikes website no longer functions... I was going to post in that thread to see if he would revive it, but alas that thread is clooooosed :/
I read you only drill through about 20 mm. So ONLY go through the frame and not into the engine itself right??
Maybe this will help: here's a pic of the frame by itself. That forward cross member (in black) that runs between the engine mount outrigger arms is basically a hollow pipe. The Motovation slider mounting rod runs through there.
__________________ Never try and teach a pig to sing: it's a waste of time, and it annoys the pig.
I just want to be clear; if I order the ones on the motovation website linked above I will get all the correct parts to mount them to the frame?
Yes, you just have to drill out the holes in the end of the frame slightly and then a long threaded rod goes all the way through the frame, to which the sliders bolt on each end.
Much better set up than the engine mounted ones, which shouldn't even be sold, too many people have learned the hard way such as our friend above.
I bought a bike with the engine mounted sliders already installed. What keeps me from going out and buying a piece of threaded rod, a couple nuts and installing the sliders to the frame? Only reason I haven’t tried this already is because I don't have the original motor mount bolts...
But seriously considering scraping the frame slider idea all together and getting the GUVI cage.
I bought a bike with the engine mounted sliders already installed. What keeps me from going out and buying a piece of threaded rod, a couple nuts and installing the sliders to the frame? Only reason I haven’t tried this already is because I don't have the original motor mount bolts...
But seriously considering scraping the frame slider idea all together and getting the GUVI cage.
The only thing keeping you from doing that is the motivation to get away from the computer and go buy the bits and pieces.
__________________
2003 Honda 919 - flapper mod, Clear Alternatives Smoke Tailight w/ integral turn signals, Stebel Nautilus air horn, DIY fender eliminator, LED license plate bolts, LED front turn signals, no resistor or new flasher so I blink like crazy.
Those are the ones I ordered, and they are the right ones for the frame. Like was said before, you will have to drill the holes out a bit, but it isn't too difficult.
I just tried to order some but they are out of stock. Hopefully they are not out for long. I just started riding and would atleast like to have these on the bike while I am still a beginner.
Oh by the way I am new to the site and just picked up my first bike. A 2006 wine 919 with 998 miles on it. I love it so far. It is much more fun to ride then the little 250cc bikes at the motorcycle saftey school I attended.
I have the same. Best sliders you can get, IMO. As for installation, (I already had the drill bit), I had these on in 10 minutes. Dip the drill bit in grease to catch the metal shavings, you only have to drill through maybe 1/4" - 3/8" of metal, your not boring out the entire frame, just the entry point of that hole. Just go slow, so if the bit catches you don't wrench your arm off or damage the bike.
That's an engine mounted slider, not a frame mounted slider. A known issue. Sorry for your luck that sucks.
I was going to refer you to the helpful topics, but mr. mikes website no longer functions... I was going to post in that thread to see if he would revive it, but alas that thread is clooooosed :/
The motivation installation instructions were junk. The photocopy was so poor I could not see the image.
The Mickey Mouse 15mm and 17mm nuts is a poor idea as well.
Use blue loctite to install the sliders, you can't get a 17mm anything inside the one slider so how tight you have that side is as tight as it gets.
I don't understand why they weren't both 15mm.
I'm happy now that they are on, but not great instructions.
I can't really remember having a problem installing them...I thought I was able to get a socket on there; maybe it was just a cheap, thin-walled socket.
I don't even think I looked at the instructions, but if I ever take them off again, I am going to Loc-Tite them.
Motovation changed something without telling us!!!
This is my second set of Motovation sliders I've installed on a 919. The last set were installed on my 2007 in late 2008. This set was just installed last night on my 2004. NOT as simple as before.
Last time, there was plenty or room for flat washer, lock washer, and nut at each end. THIS TIME, there was not enough room for the lock washers for some odd reason. Also, last time the nuts required a 12mm socket (like the instructions still say) but this time they required a 17mm socket! I forgot to measure the length of the rod to see if it matched the ones other WT members had on theirs. Here is the rundown of what I found did or did not work, and how different things were now than before...
Motovation Frame Slider installation (1 person):
Trust me, it was NOT as easy this time as the last time! The previous set of Motovation sliders I installed on my last 919 took less than 10 minutes to install.
This set took close to an hour, which included a trip to Lowe’s to get replacement 10mm nuts for rod that used a 15mm socket, temporary replacement engine mount 10x100 engine mount bolts & 10mm nuts, plus a second and third trip to tool store to get bigger drills bit since a 25/64” bit (closest to 10mm, which I could not find in my entire county!) was a wee bit too small because after I drilled the 25/64” hole, the slider rod would not fit! I didn’t want to use the bit to ream out the hole, but it would have worked (that’s hard on bits and can often result in a broken bit). So I went back and got bigger bits. A 13/32” bit wasn’t even big enough even though it’s an alternative to a 10.3188mm bit! It took a third trip to the tool store to finally get a bit that would drill the hole big enough! (Didn't have this problem last time for some reason!)
TOOLS NEEDED: (or at least what I used)
Two 15mm sockets
Two 3/8” drive ratchets (or 1 ratchet and 1 breaker bar)
Short and long extensions
25/64” drill bits you can buy (2, in case 1 breaks!)
Strap of some sort helps if you're by yourself
Loc-Tite or some kind of thread locker suggested
Beverage of your choice (very important!)
*If your bike already has cheaper engine-mounted sliders, you'll need to find a replacement 10x100 flange bolt & 10mm flange washer to use after you remove the longer slider bolts. Good luck! I couldn't find two on the entire West Coast!!!
*Open Motovation slider package and remove the nut already installed to one end of rod. Oh, the instructions say there are 2 of each washer but there are only 1 of each. I called Motovation and they said they changed it and now only include 1 of each. They feel you don’t need them on one end. (WTF?)
*IMPORTANT: Remove both 10mm nuts included and toss them in your spare nuts & bolts bin because you will never get a 17mm socket (other than maybe the dollar store ultra-thin walls) down inside the end of each slider. The instructions claim the kit includes two 12mm nuts when in fact they are 17mm nuts. You will need to find two nuts that use a 15mm socket so you can get the socket inside the ends of each slider.
*Threads at each end of slider are 1 inch long. You can only thread a nut down until it is flush with the very end of the rod or you will not be able to get the flat washer and nut onto the other end. Believe me, it took a few tries before I discovered where the nut would work.
*After threading a nut on one end with a flat washer only (no room for 2 lock washers!), slip rod through LONG slider and push rod through hole on left side of frame.
*If you’re doing this job alone like I was, you will find it very helpful to use a strap from the left slider to your handlebars to hold the slider, or else it will keep slipping out of the hole.
*I found the best way to get washer into right slider is to drop it in, then hold it with a finger and then slip it over the rod, otherwise it will keep falling off the rod.
*Once you have the flat washer onto the right side of the rod in slider, you’re ready to install the nut.
*After several Coronas and countless cuss words, the job was done!
I'm sure you've all seen enough step-by-step pictures, but I figured I'd post more because...
The 17mm NyLock nut doesn't need to have a socket on it once positioned on the rod, or the socket set I have fit nicely. I don't recall the details as it was a while back... I just recall that it was not an issue for me.
The hardest part, by FAR, was drilling the frame on one side. The right side was a bitch & a half due to the weld being very hard. It took two drill bits and 20 minutes for the one side.
The other side was done in moments.
Not all people have trouble drilling; it depends upon the location of the welds holding the frame pieces together.
But your luck with a 17mm is ironic, and obviously not recently. Because now days, the have mad the holes smaller in the slider, so you won't be able to get a 17mm socket in that hole. In early 2009, the nuts used a 12mm socket, but this year they require a 17mm which doen't work!
So sure, you're saying you had no issues, but I assure you that if you had a caliper and measured the opening in the NEW sliders, you would NOT have a 17mm opening!!!
In fact, if you STILL doubt me, look at YOUR sliders then look at mine... notice they even changed the outer surface and angle of the Motovation lettering???
good luck , str8
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Motovation changed something without telling us!!!
The previous set of Motovation sliders I installed on my last 919 took less than 10 minutes to install. 
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