I was having a lazy Sunday and went to the garage to clean up the bike a little. Some Simple Green and paper towels got rid of the grime...mostly from an overzealous chain lube application by a friend. After some inspection, I noticed a few kinks in the chain, as well as a rear sprocket that looked like it was in a slasher flick. The sprocket looks like a JT. I have no clue what the chain is.
My plan is to purchase a new chain, rear sprocket, a SpeedoHealer...and I'll probably end up throwing in a new front sprocket, too. I did some researching that included what brands were good and bad, teeth-count, 520 conversions, etc.
As for sprockets, I read that Sprocket Specialists and AFAM are the brands to go with. AFAM is hard anodized and Sprocket Specialists has the Titan Tough option. Do WR members still get a discount at Sprocket Specialists? I read something about that... As for now, I'm leaning towards purchasing a set of AFAM sprockets: 15/45t.
As for chains, looks like D.I.D. is the top of the line. My default purchase is a D.I.D Premium X-Ring 530 VM Gold Chain (120 links), but is there a more frugal buy that won't sacrifice too much? I assume I need the "Rivet Connecting Link," as well...do I need a special tool to assemble the chain? Also, has anyone purchase from CycleDepot.net? They have insane prices on the D.I.D. chains...
I'm thinking about purchasing a HealTech SpeedoHealer, too. Has anyone installed their new v4?
general rule, replace sprockets when you replace the chain. I personally would go with steel sprockets. Appears that is an aluminum sprocket, sort of known for wearing out sooner than steel. My last bike I got a stock sprocket replacement with rk x-ring chain, chromology front sprocket, steel rear sprocket for around $150 bucks with a 20k mile warranty.
i would recommend a good chain tool to rivet the chain together, runs maybe $70-$100. I have heard some say c-clamp with a bb to dimple the rivet, as well as some using a vice and hammer, then having to take the swing arm off to put the chain on.
Try these guys. I got a D.I.D. last year from them. Very fast service and an excellent price. If you go with the stock sizes, go with 112 link 530. That's what I did. Honda used a 114 link chain, which doesn't have much adjustment. They must have had a lot of them in the parts bin. http://www.sprocketcenter.com
Stick with steel sprockets. You won't be sorry.
The guys at cycle depot are great. Personally, I deal with Art.
Sprocket center is awsome as well. Very knowledgeable. I have purchased from them twice and they were great.
barmatt80, you were able to get a warranty with your sprocket/chain?
daveb, sprocketcenter has good prices, too! Thanks for the heads-up. I didn't know they had specific sizes. I thought you just got a certain length and cut it down to spec. As for getting 112 links versus 114, would that work okay with a 15/45t setup?
I just read up on some 112 versus 114 link threads. I can assume that a 112 link chain will most likely work with a non-Cali stock 16/43 setup. A 15/45 setup is very similar to stock. A 15/45 setup needs a half a link longer chain, but will a 112 link chain still be feasible?
Alternate question does anybody have some first hand comments requarding the 16/45T setup... That way with an extra wheel/43T rear setup & using a clip-style master link you can switch between the too for two different riding types???
not sure, can you even get a clip stye master with a 530 chain. never seen one on bigger chains.
You can. A dealer near me had one behind the counter. They are much easier to install. I asked the guy why they did away with that style masterlink, wondering if maybe it was weaker than the riveted type. He said they are just as strong, but "could" pop off. The riveted style is more for liability purposes. Now I have used the clip on style on my MX bikes for the six years that I raced them, and never had a problem, and have been using them on my street bikes for the last 6 years also with no problem. The trick is to install the clip correctly. It has to face the right way so that when the chain is going around and any debris hits it it will push the clip onto the pins harder instead of pushing the clip off the pins. I dont want to deal with the hassel of putting the rivet type on, and especially dont want to have to take it off when I need a new chain. In my opinion the clip style is the way to go. Easily installed with pliers, vicegrips, or if your careful a hammer and screw driver. Also taken off the same way.
IMO: Never use a clip link on anything bigger than a dirt bike. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain lets go? It's not a pretty sight not to mention a potential accident. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet master link.
IMO: Never use a clip link on anything bigger than a dirt bike. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain lets go? It's not a pretty sight not to mention a potential accident. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet master link.
We are old and we are wise. Go with a rivet we surmise.
Michael, how many miles you get off of that setup.
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IMO: Never use a clip link on anything bigger than a dirt bike. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain lets go? It's not a pretty sight not to mention a potential accident. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet master link.
+1.
I've got a 6 HP go-kart that kept throwing clips. I finally JBWelded the thing on.
You can get a rivet/chain cutting tool for $80. A chain can do a lot more damage than that.
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"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
I bought the 919 used. It had 25315 miles when I bought it. I've put just over 1000 miles since I bought it... I should seriously do an overhaul. Oil change, sprockets/chain, tires... oh joy. There goes my tax allowance.
Yeah, I reference your site constantly, MisterMike. Where's the how-to on chain/sprockets? :P
After I order the sprockets and chain (112? 114? 108? lol), I'm going to clean the 919 nice and good...and maybe get tires while I'm at it. Right now, I'm just wondering what kind of sprocket set I want. Aluminum or steel, stick with the 15/45 or go back to stock... need to focus on work.
I'm running the 16/45 sprocket setup and think its great. When I go on cross country rides I plan on installing my 17t front sprockt which would make it a little taller than stock. I run my 919 at the drag strip sometimes and its wheelie prone with the 16/45 it even grabs lots of air in third so i'm only running low 11s. It's a lot of fun in town and in traffic. Buy good chain and keep it cleaned and oiled there's lots of horse power loss in chains. Have fun.
Yeah, I reference your site constantly, MisterMike. Where's the how-to on chain/sprockets? :P
After I order the sprockets and chain (112? 114? 108? lol), I'm going to clean the 919 nice and good...and maybe get tires while I'm at it. Right now, I'm just wondering what kind of sprocket set I want. Aluminum or steel, stick with the 15/45 or go back to stock... need to focus on work.
Look on the Maintenance/How-to page. scroll down the page about half way. Stick with steel sprockets.
I should be able to do the chain/sprocket with regular hand tools, right? Couple of sockets, allan wrenches...elbow grease? oh...I need a rivet tool...
Definitely go with the 112 links. I did a 520 conversion on mine and got 114 links and had to take 2 links out. There was absolutely no adjustment going with the 114 link chain.
Reading MisterMike's site, can I assume a 112 link 530 chain will fit a 15/45t setup?
Also, I skimmed through the service manual. Do I have to replace the dust seals on the rear wheel? ...or can I just remove the wheel, unbolt the old sprocket, then bolt on the new sprocket and continue with the front sprocket and chain?
Reading MisterMike's site, can I assume a 112 link 530 chain will fit a 15/45t setup?
Also, I skimmed through the service manual. Do I have to replace the dust seals on the rear wheel? ...or can I just remove the wheel, unbolt the old sprocket, then bolt on the new sprocket and continue with the front sprocket and chain?
The dust seals are metal, so you shouldn't need to replace em unless they are damaged somehow. I just removed them when I replaced my rear tire and just cleaned them up and put on a with lil grease.
Just got back from changing the oil. I'm using Repsol semi-synthetic with a K&N filter. I'm probably going to stock up on Honda-brand filters and Repsol oil from my sister's shop when I go down to Miami later next week.
I finally got my sprockets/chain in. I was a little disappointed to see a Drive Systems USA 15/45 sprocket kit. I re-checked Sprocket Center's website and it says the kit has a Drive Systems USA _or_ AFAM. I can't remember if that's what the description said a week or two ago. Oh well. Drive Systems USA is still good, though...right?
I recently bought my D.I.D X-ring chain on ebay from motorcycle accessory warehouse. I paid $106 delivered and it was 114 links so I didn't have to modify the chain at all. I thought it was a good deal. Shipping was a little slow. Took em 3 business days to get the chain out the door. I had the yamaha dealer install the chain for $40. Honda dealer was too busy.
Alternate question does anybody have some first hand comments requarding the 16/45T setup... That way with an extra wheel/43T rear setup & using a clip-style master link you can switch between the too for two different riding types???
I run a 16/45 and like it. You do not need to break the chain to change wheels with different sprockets in the 43-45 range. If you are thinking of having a different chain/front/rear sprocket set for the different gearing, I can see what your thinking is re having a master link. But, most would never use a master link on something like a 919, and I'm in that camp. If you are resolute on being able to change chain and sprocket sets and not just rear wheels, use a riveted chain and just remove the swing arm to allow changes. Note this is only practical if you are not doing it very often.
I was having a lazy Sunday and went to the garage to clean up the bike a little. Some Simple Green and paper towels got rid of the grime...mostly from an overzealous chain lube application by a friend. After some inspection, I noticed a few kinks in the chain, as well as a rear sprocket that looked like it was in a slasher flick. The sprocket looks like a JT. I have no clue what the chain is.
My plan is to purchase a new chain, rear sprocket, a SpeedoHealer...and I'll probably end up throwing in a new front sprocket, too. I did some researching that included what brands were good and bad, teeth-count, 520 conversions, etc.
As for sprockets, I read that Sprocket Specialists and AFAM are the brands to go with. AFAM is hard anodized and Sprocket Specialists has the Titan Tough option. Do WR members still get a discount at Sprocket Specialists? I read something about that... As for now, I'm leaning towards purchasing a set of AFAM sprockets: 15/45t.
As for chains, looks like D.I.D. is the top of the line. My default purchase is a D.I.D Premium X-Ring 530 VM Gold Chain (120 links), but is there a more frugal buy that won't sacrifice too much? I assume I need the "Rivet Connecting Link," as well...do I need a special tool to assemble the chain? Also, has anyone purchase from CycleDepot.net? They have insane prices on the D.I.D. chains...
I'm thinking about purchasing a HealTech SpeedoHealer, too. Has anyone installed their new v4?
Thanks folks!
THAT is a scary bit of drive parts. Talk about tempting fate ! Glad you caught it so you can change it before failure.
IMO: Never use a clip link on anything bigger than a dirt bike. Have you ever seen what happens when a chain lets go? It's not a pretty sight not to mention a potential accident. Do yourself a favor and use a rivet master link.
Agreed.
A friend of mine had a clip-style master link let loose during a ride.
Aside from ruining the afternoon ride, his engine was effectively ruined when the chain came off. It was cheaper to buy a used engine and replace it than to buy a new case and transmission parts.
He was warned several times not to use the clip-style master link. He pushed back saying he'd been using 'em for years with no problems.
Agreed.
A friend of mine had a clip-style master link let loose during a ride.
Aside from ruining the afternoon ride, his engine was effectively ruined when the chain came off. It was cheaper to buy a used engine and replace it than to buy a new case and transmission parts.
He was warned several times not to use the clip-style master link. He pushed back saying he'd been using 'em for years with no problems.
You'd also be amazed at how many people don't know that :
1 The closed end must be leading towards the drive sprocket when the link is on the top run of chain.
2 If the clip is stamped and not ground on both sides, one side has "sharp" edges and the other rounded. The "sharp edged side" must face outwards to the rivet head.
3 Many racers of the past era that used clipped chains, would safety wire the clip between the two pins the clip was on. Just wire the two legs of clip towards each other to help reduce the chance of spreading.
also dont be afraid of the rivet type masters.... i got one on my 250x... it was as simple as a clip type... i ran the chain around the front sprocket and swing arm (without rear tire in) after i cut it to the right length. Placed the o rings in the proper places as well as the side plate for the master link. I then layed the chain on the ground with a heavy sledge behind it, then took a small ball peen hammer to mushroom out the tops of the rivets... No special tools needed and its lasted for a LONG LONG time.
Alternate question does anybody have some first hand comments requarding the 16/45T setup... That way with an extra wheel/43T rear setup & using a clip-style master link you can switch between the too for two different riding types???
do your 16/45t set up but buy a 17t instead of the 43t rear.
install the 17/45 and a 112 link chain.
then put on the 16 for "fun" you'll line the 17t better than a 45t rear, it seems to "buzz" less
i'm runnin a 17/45t 112 as we speak
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
do your 16/45t set up but buy a 17t instead of the 43t rear.
install the 17/45 and a 112 link chain.
then put on the 16 for "fun" you'll line the 17t better than a 45t rear, it seems to "buzz" less
Do yourself a favor and use a rivet master link.
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