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Old 07-20-2010, 06:41 PM   #1
Tirone
 
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Install f4i gages on a 919

http://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...f4i-meter.html
http://wristtwisters.com/naked-bikes...ome-919-a.html

Here are a few pages discussing the problems originally associated with the conversion, however we seem to have them worked out

1. Buy the gauges

2. Make a mount, or buy this one Honda F4i Bracket (100032) | Motocyco

3. Buy a water temp sensor for the f4i gauges. (will thread directly into the same hole, and the electric terminal is the same)

4. Go to www.vintageconnections.com and order 2 (just to be safe) 9 pin connectors. They're hp9 on the price sheet. (good company, they ship fast)

The f4i gauges have 2 female connectors, and the 919 uses 1 male and 1 female. The connection kit will have all pieces you need to rewire.
All the wires will match according to color except the illumination lead on the bike harness is the White/Green. That needs to go to the Brown/White of the meter. The extra wire is the Green/White, which the honda service manual says is for a side stand indicator, which the 919 did not have.

In order to have the fuel gauge work properly:
919 side stand switch is connected to clutch switch on the handlebars.
find the harness that goes from your clutch switch (handlebars, left side ) and locate its connectors that go to the mai harness in the headlight. Clutch switch has 2 black wires on its harness side and connects to green/red and green/white on the main harness.
splice a wire into G/W and take to side stand wire on the gauge harness (green/white on f4i harness as well)

This is not all my information, i was just so grateful for everyone who helped me. I decided i would compile the information to make it easier to find.

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Old 07-20-2010, 09:36 PM   #2
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this is how I hooked up the fuel gauge so I didn't have to cut open the wire to splice, I used a pointed screw driver, same one I used to pull the pin, you know the kind that is like an ice pick and opened up the pin and closed it over the new wire I was adding in, its a nice clean connection



this is how the cluster looks from the seat


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Old 07-21-2010, 10:48 AM   #3
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Whats the red light? And how in gods name do you set the clock?
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:40 PM   #4
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Can someone save this on a helpfull topics? I t would make a lot easier to find than a search....
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:13 PM   #5
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red light is because I haven't installed an f4i temp sensor and it is reading at 270 degrees on the tach, the red light is to let you know you are overheating and the set the time hold both buttons till it blinks, then press the bottom to set hours, then press the top to switch to minutes then the bottom again to set that, top again to finish.
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:00 AM   #6
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got my bracket from the site posted above today and mounted it, its a very tight fit but works and is solid.

to install it you need to pull the ignition cover off and remove those screws (some one tried to steal my bike before and broke the special nuts on top but they still work

just use vice grips to *lightly* pinch them and a philips head to back out the screws, I used the supplied hardware because the bolts are slightly longer and its much easier to put a 8mm bolt on than a screw.

sorry for the blurry pics, I need to clean the lens on my camera









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Old 07-22-2010, 10:49 AM   #7
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u need to clean the lense of your camera! its got somethin dead center on it haha.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:46 PM   #8
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That looks nice, but our bikes redline at 9,500 RPMs... although I am not sure what the rev limiter is set to... The tach on the f4i goes up to 17,000 RPMs..?
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:05 PM   #9
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yeah, but do you really need the gauge to be red to know that you shouldn't reving that high?
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:27 PM   #10
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rev limiter eliminates consequences
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucky View Post
rev limiter eliminates consequences
exactly! ya redline is at 9.5 but i think revlimit is at a 10.5k.... which is super conservative IMO.

regardless yes you will have extra space on the new tach ... those lil 600cc inline 4's rev to high heaven. haha
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
this is how I hooked up the fuel gauge so I didn't have to cut open the wire to splice, I used a pointed screw driver, same one I used to pull the pin, you know the kind that is like an ice pick and opened up the pin and closed it over the new wire I was adding in, its a nice clean connection



this is how the cluster looks from the seat

I do like white faced tachos, and the F4i panel looks kind of neat, but, I would not want to end up with a tach that has only has a fraction of its face being effectively useable.
The 919 is all done before 9500 RPM and who cares about a tach below 6000 or so. So you get 3500 RPM of useable tach reading range from a face showing 0 - 15,000. In other words less than 25 % of the face is of practical use.
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:52 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by mcromo44 View Post
In other words less than 25 % of the face is of practical use.

What's up Debbie-Downer !
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:16 PM   #14
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What's up Debbie-Downer !
Busy looking at how to graft a white faced 10,000 RPM super tach on to the 919.
Past that, keeping too busy with stuff and not enough riding.
Only two track days so far this season.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:17 PM   #15
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What's up Debbie-Downer !
Forgot to add in something else.

How about DP instead of DD ?
As in Different Perspective ?
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:34 PM   #16
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I'm glad all the issues have been solved, I might do this mod later. Replace my headlight with one of them streetfighter mask.

You can get custom made back faces for the tachometer from people on E-bay.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:09 PM   #17
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Link please
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:28 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
got my bracket from the site posted above today and mounted it, its a very tight fit but works and is solid.

to install it you need to pull the ignition cover off and remove those screws (some one tried to steal my bike before and broke the special nuts on top but they still work

just use vice grips to *lightly* pinch them and a philips head to back out the screws, I used the supplied hardware because the bolts are slightly longer and its much easier to put a 8mm bolt on than a screw.

sorry for the blurry pics, I need to clean the lens on my camera

Your left fork is lower than your right; doesn't that mess up your cornering?
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:57 PM   #19
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they are the same height, the wheel is turned to the side so the right side is closer thus giving the illusion of being higher.
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:09 PM   #20
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just thought I'd throw this out there, the speedo is off by 4mph at 60mph, it says 60 actual via gps is 64, sprocket setup is 16/45 with a pilot pure tire, the odo is short 1.1 miles per 10
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
just thought I'd throw this out there, the speedo is off by 4mph at 60mph, it says 60 actual via gps is 64, sprocket setup is 16/45 with a pilot pure tire, the odo is short 1.1 miles per 10
ouch thats further off than the stock cluster..... least with the stock it read higher than what you were actually going... and odo was only off by about 2% ... or 2 miles in 100.


also... u sure those fork heights are the same.... that pic looks pretty dead straight on and those forks look like they are off by quite abit!
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:09 PM   #22
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yeah, I was kinda baffled when I got 120 miles out of a tank of gas before the reserve light came on so I decided I needed to find out why. I was quite shocked it was that far off, I know others have reported the gauge being spot on, and I certainly don't have radical gearing, just 2 extra teeth in the back

Also I went out and rechecked the the forks, there were level, but defiantly not the right height. Got that all fixed now, dropped them both to 9mm above the triple
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeef View Post
yeah, I was kinda baffled when I got 120 miles out of a tank of gas before the reserve light came on so I decided I needed to find out why. I was quite shocked it was that far off, I know others have reported the gauge being spot on, and I certainly don't have radical gearing, just 2 extra teeth in the back

Also I went out and rechecked the the forks, there were level, but defiantly not the right height. Got that all fixed now, dropped them both to 9mm above the triple
ya and they way you have it geared.... you should actually be reading faster rather than slower... as your output shaft has to spin faster to go the same speed as stock gearing.
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Old 03-11-2011, 06:30 PM   #24
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thanks for the write up. Regarding the fuel reserve notification, on a f4i gauge there are 4 progress bars when reserve comes up. when you get to 1 bar the tank is almost empty. is this functional/ accurate even on the 919?

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