Lighting Specifications:
0.38kW/5,000 rpm Alternator Capicity
184 total Watts with the high beam = 48.4% of the Alternator Capicity
243 total Watts with a dual 55/60W headlight system = 64.2% of the Alternator Capacity
Looks like at least 137 Watts before you start draining
Thanks! That answers my question. Another thing- does the 919 have part of the wiring harness designated for accessories i.e. heated grips? If not, which wire would you tap?
when i put my grip heaters on, i ran a wire from the batt. with an in-line mini blade fuse to a common auto solenoid then up to the grips. ground was the frame and the trigger for the solenoid was the rear running lights. that way i could never leave the grips on when i left the bike.key off=grips off.
fuse holder(waterproof) and solenoid can be had for cheap at any auto chain store(autozone/advance,etc.)
all said and done,(heat shrink,terminals,running the wire,bla bla)took about 2.5 hrs. not counting grip glue drying
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
Is there a switched ON I can tap somewhere around the headlight area?
whatever you do, DON'T tap into any power wires for the headlight as it runs through the kill switch. honda is known for having a weak link (of various forms in various models) in the kill switch that will leave you stranded due to burnt contacts, loose contacts, etc.
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
when i put my grip heaters on, i ran a wire from the batt. with an in-line mini blade fuse to a common auto solenoid then up to the grips. ground was the frame and the trigger for the solenoid was the rear running lights. that way i could never leave the grips on when i left the bike.key off=grips off.
fuse holder(waterproof) and solenoid can be had for cheap at any auto chain store(autozone/advance,etc.)
all said and done,(heat shrink,terminals,running the wire,bla bla)took about 2.5 hrs. not counting grip glue drying
i think you mean relay... solenoid is a very different thing.
But yes that would be the best way to do it, run a relay off a switched positive (tail lights work) that switches a main FUSED HOT from the battery... with the fuse as close to the battery as possible (definitely before the relay) to eliminate any problems with shorts down the road.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pvster
whatever you do, DON'T tap into any power wires for the headlight as it runs through the kill switch. honda is known for having a weak link (of various forms in various models) in the kill switch that will leave you stranded due to burnt contacts, loose contacts, etc.
FYI.... headlight doesnt run through the kill switch... they run through the starter switch. Below is my solution to the problem of the headlight wires at the starter switch comming undone... -> Got fed up with my headlight probs... and vibrations.
As far as the available extra power from the stock setup im sure it can handle the extra draw of heated grips... the above figures seem right but id have to look through the manual to see.
i think you mean relay... solenoid is a very different thing.
But yes that would be the best way to do it, run a relay off a switched positive (tail lights work) that switches a main FUSED HOT from the battery... with the fuse as close to the battery as possible (definitely before the relay) to eliminate any problems with shorts down the road.
FYI.... headlight doesnt run through the kill switch... they run through the starter switch. Below is my solution to the problem of the headlight wires at the starter switch comming undone... -> http://www.wristtwisters.com/f94/got...ons-28152.html
As far as the available extra power from the stock setup im sure it can handle the extra draw of heated grips... the above figures seem right but id have to look through the manual to see.
yea,brain fart,lol
i run the grip heaters,cell charger and gps at the same time.
no problems
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,797
Let's all get on the same page here.
Wattage = current x voltage.
Current = wattage / voltage.
Normal system voltage above 2,200 RPM = 13.8 volts (an industry accepted value)
Total current available from the alternator: 380 watts / 13.8 volts = 27.5 amps.
Loads during normal operation:
-- Lighting: 91.1 watts, 6.6 amps.
-- EFI system including injectors: 18 watts, 1.3 amps.
-- Fuel pump: 14 watts, 1.05 amps. ( An average of every fuel pump I have checked, though I have not checked a 919 pump.)
-- Ignition: 13.8 watts, or about 1 amp. Very difficult to directly measure due to the impulse nature of the load, but again this is an industry accepted baseline figure.
-- Instrument cluster: 6.9 watts, 0.6 amp.
-- Miscellaneous minor loads (relay coils, "keep alive" voltage for the EFI and instruments, etc.): 10 watts, 0.72 amp.
-- Total load: 155.5 watts, 11.27 amps, leaving about 15 1/4 amps > 5,000 RPM. This figure is for steady state cruise.
Depending on the current draw of the grip heaters a good place to pick off switched power is from the heavy gauge Red / Black wire from the ignition switch. You will need a sealed fuse holder and "washdown rated" (can't be immersed, but will tolerate rain) toggle switch of at least twice the current rating of the total draw of the grip heaters. This eliminates the extra draw of a relay coil. I recommend placing the fuse such that it can be accessed without removing the headlight.
From McMaster-Carr:
-- Toggle switch: 2 Pole - SPST - 20 amp @30 VDC - Part # 7172K21 - $10.51
-- Fuse holder: Part # 8110K1 -- $3.16 -- This holder uses the same size fuse as the OEM fuse box.
Infinitely adjustable, made of the finest materials available, and completely sourced from local suppliers -- gotta support the local economy! Order today and know handlebar Nirvana.
I can vouch for the Fuzeblocks products. Easy to install, and the nicety of having the ability to do switched or constant power on a whim is actually quite awesome.
polar and drewv, where did you guys mount the relay actuated fuse block you guys made?
i have officially added too much stuff to the battery terminals and need to make it neater so i'm looking into making the fuse block mentioned in this article. buying a fuse block is just out of the question for me.
One way is to reduce the amount of power the bike draws. Converting to LEDs and the like will save more than a few watts that can be used for other things.
I'm planning on buying my parts and building my own, like in the link above, but my question is this.
The Koso "Gayges" I have include a 12v wire to the "+" terminal of the battery. So the LCD is always lit even with the bike off. This small current keeps the tripometers, clock, etc. always in memory.
So in that case, I would NOT want to connect the Koso to this fuse block, is that correct? In the case of the fuse block, if the key is off, the power is off, and the Koso needs to keep a small current to stay alive.
Also, I have a powerlet connector to charge the battery; how would I connect that up in order to charge the battery? I'm thinking that if it were on the fuseblock, then I'd be in the same pickle, right? It would only charge if the key were on, which would be stupid.
So right there, there are two devices for which I can't use on the fuseblock.
I'm planning on buying my parts and building my own, like in the link above, but my question is this.
The Koso "Gayges" I have include a 12v wire to the "+" terminal of the battery. So the LCD is always lit even with the bike off. This small current keeps the tripometers, clock, etc. always in memory.
So in that case, I would NOT want to connect the Koso to this fuse block, is that correct? In the case of the fuse block, if the key is off, the power is off, and the Koso needs to keep a small current to stay alive.
Also, I have a powerlet connector to charge the battery; how would I connect that up in order to charge the battery? I'm thinking that if it were on the fuseblock, then I'd be in the same pickle, right? It would only charge if the key were on, which would be stupid.
So right there, there are two devices for which I can't use on the fuseblock.
I think.
google,
the way i wired mine,the powerlet goes right to the battery. yours would also have the koso to the battery. then one lead to the + side(fused) for the relay going to the dist. block. with a ground to the frame and the ground on the relay. i used the tail light hot as the "trigger" for the relay so it is only on when the key is on. then hook any acc. to the "switched" dist block.
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
could always get a tire mounted generator like the old days for bicycles :-P
that would be fun! at a red light you get cold,on the slab it cooks you med.well.
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'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
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