Ok, so the other day I was going on a patriot guard ride and I wanted to adjust my chain as it had gotten a bit tight. I didn't have access to the toolroom at the hangar (it was a DONSA) so I got out the toolboxes in my office. The only thing that would work to loosen the nut was a crescent wrench. It worked, but I scraped the swingarm a bit, right there where the bit comes up next to the nut.
Now, I'm not too concerned about it, but I do have a question... is there any way I could take a dremel and smooth it out a bit? Or would I run the risk of putting a hole in her? Surely don't want that.
And then we give him grief in various other posts he makes, no matter what he's showing.
"Nice windscreen! That Penske must deflect an additional 3% of airflow!"
The swingarm alloy will be a decent thickness so if it is a slight scratch you will be able to rub/polish it out. But the arm is clear coated as well so it will be obvious.
The sticker idea is a sound one to hide it - find one that suits your personality and pop it on.
I've some Ohlins stickers in my tool box from my fork springs ............
Instead of a sticker, put reflective tape on it. Silver blends in decent and gets safety points. Or not. Whatever you want.
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haha, nice guys. I dont have access to a camera, but I think I'll just smooth it with a dremel. Maybe do a slight bevel along the edge to make it uniform. Thanks for the input, guys.
haha, nice guys. I dont have access to a camera, but I think I'll just smooth it with a dremel. Maybe do a slight bevel along the edge to make it uniform. Thanks for the input, guys.
OMG!
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?? Don't guess I really know what the problem with what I am planning is... maybe I'm not being descriptive enough...
The nut on the rear axel is in a recessed part of the swingarm. I scraped the part around the nut that is not recessed. Took (maybe) a millimeter off during the arc of my wrench. 69 ft-lbs is a bitch to loosen with a crescent wrench, btw. I plan on smoothing it out a bit. Am I wrong? Is this "unsafe?" Remember guys, I work on helicopters for a living... I am not going to get all artistic on her and start doodling scroll work or anything.
Check out the (stock) picture. See where I am pointing to? there. On the corner. Along the bottom of the recess for the axle nut.
?? Don't guess I really know what the problem with what I am planning is... maybe I'm not being descriptive enough...
The nut on the rear axel is in a recessed part of the swingarm. I scraped the part around the nut that is not recessed. Took (maybe) a millimeter off during the arc of my wrench. 69 ft-lbs is a bitch to loosen with a crescent wrench, btw. I plan on smoothing it out a bit. Am I wrong? Is this "unsafe?" Remember guys, I work on helicopters for a living... I am not going to get all artistic on her and start doodling scroll work or anything.
Check out the (stock) picture. See where I am pointing to? there. On the corner. Along the bottom of the recess for the axle nut.
You are a BAD man for using a crescent wrench on that, but there is hope for you. However, you say that you work on helicopters......................
I hope you do not use crescent's on hydraulic flare nut fittings.
"That would be bad. That's baaaad, students"
BTW....it's just tongue in cheek on the Dremel. I've used one since I don't know when on things from kids toys to guns to mom's jewelery to motorcycle parts. Just pokin' fun.
Seriously, though, I have fucked up with it and exploded cuttoff wheels and burned up router bits like there's no tomorrow.
Scared the cats in the garage over flying pieces and burnt skin smell.
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To address the basic question posed by the OP, there is no problem smoothing out any part of the axle registers / end of the swingarm because it's a solid cast / machined piece welded to the arm extrusion. You're not going to "break through" anything other than the clear coat trying to take out a scratch, and that was already "broken through" by a crescent wrench.
Oh, and congratulations on getting the nut loose with anything other than a socket -- I don't see how you even got the crescent on the nut, much less loosened it! I guess it makes it easier with 114 links in the chain instead of 112.
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You are a BAD man for using a crescent wrench on that, but there is hope for you. However, you say that you work on helicopters......................
I hope you do not use crescent's on hydraulic flare nut fittings.
"That would be bad. That's baaaad, students"
Big Daa, I try to avoid messing with hydraulic fittings as much as possible. That being said, in a war zone you kind of make do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson
To address the basic question posed by the OP, there is no problem smoothing out any part of the axle registers / end of the swingarm because it's a solid cast / machined piece welded to the arm extrusion. You're not going to "break through" anything other than the clear coat trying to take out a scratch, and that was already "broken through" by a crescent wrench.
Oh, and congratulations on getting the nut loose with anything other than a socket -- I don't see how you even got the crescent on the nut, much less loosened it! I guess it makes it easier with 114 links in the chain instead of 112.
Rob
Thanks for the reply. And it's only after years of skilled practice with stubborn bits of shit and only never having the right socket on hand that I am able to fully realize my crescent wrench skills.
Oh, and congratulations on getting the nut loose with anything other than a socket -- I don't see how you even got the crescent on the nut, much less loosened it!
I gotta give you props too for getting that nut off with a crescent wrench, and not rounding the nut - with the shape of the swingarm, there's not much to grab onto. How did you torque it when you put it back together?
Before working on it next time, I'd recommend the proper metric socket. 28mm? 32mm? I don't remember right now, but I can check when I get home. It was only about $5 at the auto parts store. I would hate to see you round that nut off and not be able to remove it.
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That's a 27mm or a 1 1/16" socket (the 1 1/16" actually fits better than the 27mm). I recommend a shallow 6 point 1/2" drive socket. You'll also need a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench to hold the other end of the axle while loosening / tightening the nut and a 5/16" or 8mm socket and speed handle to adjust the chain. I use a speed handle to accurately register rotation of the adjuster bolts to maintain proper alignment -- that is assuming it's aligned to begin with!
Infinitely adjustable, made of the finest materials available, and completely sourced from local suppliers -- gotta support the local economy! Order today and know handlebar Nirvana.
it's 1 1/8. Figured that out when I came back the next day.
Correction: 1 1/16. Yall were right, I mis-remembered.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdtoney
I gotta give you props too for getting that nut off with a crescent wrench, and not rounding the nut - with the shape of the swingarm, there's not much to grab onto. How did you torque it when you put it back together?
Before working on it next time, I'd recommend the proper metric socket. 28mm? 32mm? I don't remember right now, but I can check when I get home. It was only about $5 at the auto parts store. I would hate to see you round that nut off and not be able to remove it.
Thanks. Again, mucho practice-o. The standard socket fit without a problem, but I'll be picking up the correct nut next time. Originally, I torqued it down by hand as best I could. The next day I got a torque wrench from our tool room and torqued her down to spec. The tool room wasn't open originally because it was a donsa (day of no scheduled activity)... basically a day where everyone doesn't have to go to work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robtharalson
That's a 27mm or a 1 1/16" socket (the 1 1/16" actually fits better than the 27mm). I recommend a shallow 6 point 1/2" drive socket. You'll also need a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench to hold the other end of the axle while loosening / tightening the nut and a 5/16" or 8mm socket and speed handle to adjust the chain. I use a speed handle to accurately register rotation of the adjuster bolts to maintain proper alignment -- that is assuming it's aligned to begin with!
Rob
Those are some good tips. I Eyeballed it to start off with, then double-checked and adjusted with a small ruler. Now they're aligned, and the speed handle may be easier next go-around.
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