My FI light flashes 9 times, indicating an issue with the IAT sensor. I checked the wiring, and one of the wires had separated from the sensor. I had this sensor replaced about a month ago after I bought it, and it was hardwired to the harness, as an arc from two chewed wires friend the sensor and connector. Since the connectors are so hard to find, even from a dealer, the dealer hardwired it straight to the sensor.
One of the wires came undone, and since the 2 wires were short, and difficult to attach back to the sensor, I added and soldered 3 more inches of wire to attach back to the sensor.
The light is still flashing 9 times, and I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes to try and reset the computer.
Start with ohming the sensor itself with a dvom if you have one, with the connector disconnected, if possible, this will confirm whether the sensor is capable of giving a proper reading. If it is open or has close to infinite resistance, it is no good. My only other thoughts are a high resistance solder joint, wiring broken inside the insulation, or another broken wire further up the harness. Good luck! Dave
Ok. I'll give that a shot tonight. So the sensor works off of resistance, and me adding additional wire soldered together can affect that, correct? I'm decent at soldering, but not great. I had to use connectors on the sensor, because the solder wouldn't bond to it, could that affect the resistance as well?
Ok. I'll give that a shot tonight. So the sensor works off of resistance, and me adding additional wire soldered together can affect that, correct? I'm decent at soldering, but not great. I had to use connectors on the sensor, because the solder wouldn't bond to it, could that affect the resistance as well?
Thanks!
No this isn't correct Ep! What he's saying is that maybe you didn't make a good solder connection and that may be adding resistance to that circuit. So check your connections and make sure they are good. Using another connector would likely add more resistance than a good solder connection. He's also suggesting you make sure there's not a broken wire within the wires insulation the you can't easily see.
I'd check the resistance of the sensor (they may tell you what this should be in the manual) if that checks okay then I'd make sure you have a good connection all the way back to the ECU. These two steps will certainly reveal your problem!
It's really strange that you've had all these wiring problems at the IAT! How did all that happen?
No this isn't correct Ep! What he's saying is that maybe you didn't make a good solder connection and that may be adding resistance to that circuit. So check your connections and make sure they are good. Using another connector would likely add more resistance than a good solder connection. He's also suggesting you make sure there's not a broken wire within the wires insulation the you can't easily see.
I'd check the resistance of the sensor (they may tell you what this should be in the manual) if that checks okay then I'd make sure you have a good connection all the way back to the ECU. These two steps will certainly reveal your problem!
It's really strange that you've had all these wiring problems at the IAT! How did all that happen?
Brilliant! Thanks for clearing that up.
I bought the bike a month ago with less than 2,800 miles on it, and it looks like it sat for a little bit, but ran surprisingly well. The air filter had been nested in by, what looks to be, mice. A couple wires in the rear had been chewed, and we think that it caused an arc and fried the air temp sensor, as well as the molex connector that attaches to it. We repaired the wires, and bypassed the molex connector because they are so hard to get from Honda without replacing the entire wire harness. So the wires were connected directly to the connector.
The problem I had was that I noticed the FI light going off right after I installed my GPS power adapter and HID light. I took off the sidecover and it revealed that one of the wires had come loose from the sensor, as it was only glued in place. I added additional length to the wires to to give me more play so I could attached the wires to the sensor, without putting too much strain on them.
ya dont worry about any extra resistance from a solder connection or an extra connector... ur looking at maybe half an ohm which is like a drop in the ocean compared to the readings of the actual sensor.... that being said a bad connection that doesnt make connection at all will cause problems.
the 919's system is a very simple system so it shouldnt be too hard to find what needs to be replaced / fixed
Ok, I checked the voltage coming from the blue wire running to the sensor, and I'm only reading 0.95 V, standard as per the service manual is 4.75-5.25V.
Thoughts on why I'm only getting 0.95V to the sensor?
Ok, I checked the voltage coming from the blue wire running to the sensor, and I'm only reading 0.95 V, standard as per the service manual is 4.75-5.25V.
Thoughts on why I'm only getting 0.95V to the sensor?
^^ DISREGARD ^^ (can't edit?)
My voltmeter got switched to amperage after I had switched it to voltage.
I'm getting 5V to the sensor, but testing the sensor, it's only getting 2V after being connected, so it looks like the sensor is bad, and it's fairly new...
Guess I'm going to order a new one tonight. What would cause a fairly new sensor to be faulty only after a couple weeks?
Yes. The sensor was reading at 1.2 kilohms, and the connectors were reading 1.8 kilohms. There's also only 2 wires to the sensor, blue positive, and green ground.
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