Keep in mind KISS principle: Keep It Simple Stupid. Running a heavy gauge power wire from the battery to the headlight bucket makes sense if there wasn’t already a heavy gauge wire headed in that direction. Fortunately there is. And a good ground. Both available right there in the headlight. There is no need for the relays. Or the 20 feet of wire.
All you need to do is splice a sealed fuse holder into the Red / Black wire on the main harness side of the ignition switch connector and connect the low beam directly to the other side of the fuse. You could then either use all the original dimmer switch high beam wiring to activate the high beam or cut the Blue / White wire (feed from the starter button headlight kill), splice in a second wire from the fuse, and tag the Blue headlight wire for the high beam bulb. If you want the least voltage drop to the high beam use the dimmer switch to pick up a relay to power the bulb, again powered by the fuse you installed. Whichever way you go the low beam stays on and the high beam is switchable. NO DIODE! It may be the “simpler” way to do it, but will double the load on the dimmer switch and does drop the voltage to the low beam (they are called semiconductors for a reason). The biggest plus? It will use about 6 inches of wire instead of 20 feet, and can be done in about 1/2 hour while never moving from the front of the bike. Total cost? Whatever the two sockets cost plus a foot of wire, a $3 fuse holder, a few splices, and some heat shrink tubing. That’s simple. And effective. And doesn’t overload any stock component. And will probably take considerably less time to do than it would if you have to remove the seat and side covers, tilt up the tank, pull the battery to attach the power and ground wires, route the harness forward to wherever you happen to mount the realys making sure it doesn‘t go across something that can cut or abrade it and won‘t be trapped when the tank or seat is back in position, run the rest of the harness into the bucket, plug the H4 adapter to the original socket, pay hell trying to get all that extra stuff crammed into the bucket, reassemble everything, and test it. KISS in action.
Obviously if you don’t trust your ability to make good connections then spend the $40 for the harness and plug everything in. You won’t learn anything that will be useful in the future, and will be posting up here when you have even a minor problem crop up instead of confidently going at it armed with the knowledge you got by actually doing it all yourself.
Life is all about learning, and there is no such thing as useless knowledge.
Rob
So Glad I save these threads! Did my swap today, and as always, Robs way of wiring it up works pefectly. Thanks again Rob, been tinkering on my 9'er for years now, and your tips/tricks and advice give me the courage to try stuff I normally wouldn't.......gotta love that! Saved me the expense and clutter of a $50 harness, and I did it with stuff I already had.
Oh, and Wallybangers idea of using some shims to space out the brackets was very helpful as well. I used flat washers (3.5mm each side), longer bolts with black plastic bushings to act as the bolt "shoulder" all sourced from ACE. My Brackets may have already been spread a little due to the Dominator setup I had before it, so 3.5mm a side worked fine for me, and a little spreading of the blinker mounts made it possible to perfectly fit, and aim the headlight however I needed to.
The cramming of the wires into the bucket ain't so bad either if ya keep the bulky connectors between the 2-5 o'clock and 10-7 o'clock positions so the headlight bulbs have a space to fit in the middle.
Headlight works fantastic, and even with the stock crappy bulbs, this setup blows all others I've tried away in a BIG way (Stock and Dominator)
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Spoiler:
ALL PARTS HAVE ARRIVED....let the wrenching begin!!!
My 9'er had a low side slide.....She's down but not out......and about to rise from the ashes!
Currently:
2004 Honda 919 Silver
599 Headlight
Buell M2 shield
Givi Crash bars
Dynojet PCIII
Akrapovic exhaust - GSXR shorty CF
Seat with gel insert and re-shape
Custom LED Rear lights w/ vizi-tech flasher
Competition Works Fender Eliminator
Front 3-way LED Turn Signals flushmount
6-Spoke wheel conversion ( 900rr / F3 )
Michelin Pilot Road 3 - New @ 19940 8/10/11
Dyna Beads for tire balancing
17t / 44t Sprockets
Piaa horns 400 & 500 hertz
Ohlins rear shock from an F3, Re-Valved/Sprung
F4i Forks, custom sprung/sealed
ASV levers - Black W/Red Adj.
Tech-Spec custom tank Pads
Napoleon bar end mirrors
SW-Motech center stand
Custom one-off Bars W/Heat
FuzeBlocks FZ-1 Power Distribution
RC51 front brakes w/Bremzen pads-10 button rotors
Buell Ulysses Foot Peg conversion
etc, etc,
I usually order from these guys but bike bandit had a %20 off sale and I bought it from them. I ended up paying $176.01 its more than I had hoped to spend, but I got sick of searching ebay.
picture of the inside of 599 bucket to try and show what works best for me on arranging the wires to make the light fit. i routed the OEM h4 connector out of the bucket and into the neck where i also housed the eastern beaver harness. from there i ran the 2 h11 wires back into the bucket. the goal is to try and get all the wires to the sides of the bucket as that's where you'll have the most room considering the shape of the backside of the headlight.
if you try to force it too much, you will crack the bucket like i did. been cracked for going on 9 months now with no issues of riding in the rain nearly daily. i intend to replace it soon though.
Aisle... Sorry but my GF is a 6th grade reading teacher so I notice that stuff more than I care to. Trust me, I wish HD had an irrigation island!
Oh yeah, that's good advice by the way...
Good catch! I'm usually the grammar/spelling Nazi in the house. Funny thing is, my wife is also a teacher, and I correct her more than she corrects me .