OK i have a leaky fork seal on my left fork and i have no problem rebuilding it myself (got the service manual). But i was wondering if you guys had any tips on rebuilding the single chamber shock. I have rebuilt my dirbikes dual chamber shocks completely without problem but there was definitely a learning curve. So any tips would be helpful.
and what weight fluid should i use? maxima 5w like i used in my dirbike?
lol.... OK i have yet to see a fork that isnt serviceable.... i guess that whole section in the service manual on a fork rebuild is for something different?
Clean the fork tubes before you start. Loosen the hex at the bottom of the fork before removing the spring cap. Muffler extension piece makes a great seal driver. Use the old seal flipped upside down to drive the new one in. Use saran wrap to cover the top of the fork before sliding the new seal on. If a lot of miles figure on replacing the bushing sliders. Other than that, the manual pretty much tells you what you need, fork oil weight included.
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"Towards the end of the vid, it looks like she may have had a bafflectomy." - MarylandMike
Only has 5200ish mi on it, i pulled up the dust seal, and ran a super thin credit card between the oil seal and tube, and it seems as if it was just something in there cus i did a 120mi ride today and no leaks.
Only has 5200ish mi on it, i pulled up the dust seal, and ran a super thin credit card between the oil seal and tube, and it seems as if it was just something in there cus i did a 120mi ride today and no leaks.
we will see if it was just something in the seal that got past the dust seal... happens all the time on my dirbikes... but they never leaked as bad... only time will tell i guess. ill keep this thread updated.
Only has 5200ish mi on it, i pulled up the dust seal, and ran a super thin credit card between the oil seal and tube, and it seems as if it was just something in there cus i did a 120mi ride today and no leaks.
I think you've fixed the problem . my bike has nearly 30k miles on it , and I have had no problem with the seals .However I have replaced my springs with a set of race tech 1.0 kg, and 10wt fork oil .
naw in my quick inspection the fork tube was flawless. Ill probably take a short ride today and be a lil hooligan with some wheelies... n whatnot to work the front.
just checkin back in... after 800 or so miles of rough roads and hooligan nature there still arnt any leaks. Looks like the good ole super thin credit card trick worked like a charm.
just checkin back in... after 800 or so miles of rough roads and hooligan nature there still arnt any leaks. Looks like the good ole super thin credit card trick worked like a charm.
That's good news!
I'm definitely going to try your trick before tearing into mine.
I hate to say it but it is just a temporary fix, if want want to call it a fix.
If anything will get in betweet seal and fork tube, it will most likely damage the seal right away. It doesn't take much to destroy it.
If that would be me, I would have seal kit ($16) on order just in case.
While you replacing the seal, take a look at Teflon coating on bushings and swap the fluid. Also, I would look into replacing stock springs, unless you are under 150lbs
BTW as an update to this thread, After i did the thin credit card trick it worked for awhile (400mi or so) then leaking persisted, I unfortunately didnt get around to it and a drop or two got onto one of my front pads, LUCKILY i was able to get all the oil out of the pad and off the disk. I let the pads sit in a bath of 91% Isopropol Alcohol for 2 days, then used a torch to heat the pads up enough so that the Alcohol completely burned off. I then used a feeler gauge and went around the seal and tube, been good for another 300 mi or so.
BTW as an update to this thread, After i did the thin credit card trick it worked for awhile (400mi or so) then leaking persisted, I unfortunately didnt get around to it and a drop or two got onto one of my front pads, LUCKILY i was able to get all the oil out of the pad and off the disk. I let the pads sit in a bath of 91% Isopropol Alcohol for 2 days, then used a torch to heat the pads up enough so that the Alcohol completely burned off. I then used a feeler gauge and went around the seal and tube, been good for another 300 mi or so.
I already have my forks back together but it's 20 min job to replace the seal and fluid once forks are off the bike. Seal comes with dust seal for ~$25 from the dealer. People don't realize but Fork oil needs to be replaced just like any other fluid, you will be amazed how dirty and cloudy it will be. New oil is clear just like an olive oil.
Let me know if you want to proceed with this and I will post more how-to info
Nope, and I am at 85,000 miles. In the spring I am taking the '02 forks off and replacing them with '07 forks. Thanks Md!
What rickard919 did not add, was that his 85 + original front end has never been apart. Nor has he been overly religious about fork oil changes. This supports my hypothesis that much of the 919 front end stiction is due to fork seals that are too good !
What rickard919 did not add, was that his 85 + original front end has never been apart. Nor has he been overly religious about fork oil changes. This supports my hypothesis that much of the 919 front end stiction is due to fork seals that are too good !
Over religious about changing my fork oil means simply I never did it at all.
wow thats crazy!!!! 85k on completely stock forks. I have replaced fork oil and seals on my dirbike so this thing couldnt be hard at all. Im just hopin i dont have to go into them cus id much rather ride haha.
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