There are some on fleabay, but everyone is insane on shipping - the cheapest offer I got for $14.50 just for the shipping!!! It's $5 lousy bucks to send an envelope to Canada, for Christ's sake!
So, help me out ppl - will pay top dollar (i.e. $15 or so shipped )
You may have already been through this....but mine was was requiring constant adjustment and was very touchy. I removed it from the bike and cleaned the plunger shaft with wd-40 and put some silicone lube on it and it was worked great ever since (6 months) with no adjustment. Also the adjustment had a much wider band of proper operation. I guess it gets mucked up with road grime and the plungers sticks.
For most OEM Parts my dealer gives a 10% discount for ordering online and no shipping charge if I pick it up at the dealer. May check that option too. Its usually cheaper in the long run for smaller parts.
@firedave - doesn't matter - it could be one from a Fireblade, a 900 or a 954.
@marylandmike - actually I haven't - thank you for a great suggestion!!!
I automatically assumed this is a non-serviceable part, and I also realized, that it's probably been this way, since I bought the bike - I just never paid attention, until I started my customization project.
You may have already been through this....but mine was was requiring constant adjustment and was very touchy. I removed it from the bike and cleaned the plunger shaft with wd-40 and put some silicone lube on it and it was worked great ever since (6 months) with no adjustment. Also the adjustment had a much wider band of proper operation. I guess it gets mucked up with road grime and the plungers sticks.
For most OEM Parts my dealer gives a 10% discount for ordering online and no shipping charge if I pick it up at the dealer. May check that option too. Its usually cheaper in the long run for smaller parts.
Good luck!
Same here only it was stuck in the on position. Remove/clean/lube was the answer.
Doc
__________________
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS EARLY APEX."
Hey guys, must be the time of the season or something.... but I lost my switch as well when my rear brake was out of commission for a while. Would any of you mind sending one my way? I'll pay the postage. I don't need the connector, just the tension spring.
The cable and switch from my local dealer is 13 bucks. I have to order a new one for myself as I just took mine apart last night and saw that it was completely corroded. I cleaned off most of the corrosion and it works again but I am replacing it just to be on the safe side.
If you haven't tried to clean it, just remove it from the bracket. Look at the switch and roll up the rubber sheath on the top. There are 2 white nubs that you press in, and pull the down and the switch comes apart. It is just two flat pieces of copper attached to the wires and the plunger has a piece of copper around it that when the lever is pressed down it moves the plunger down and creates the circuit. They get extremely corroded, and will not allow the current to flow. Clean it and polish it and reassemble it, and you should be back in business.
If you still need a cable shipped to Canada, PM me and I will order two and send one your way.
You may have already been through this....but mine was was requiring constant adjustment and was very touchy. I removed it from the bike and cleaned the plunger shaft with wd-40 and put some silicone lube on it and it was worked great ever since (6 months) with no adjustment. Also the adjustment had a much wider band of proper operation. I guess it gets mucked up with road grime and the plungers sticks.
For most OEM Parts my dealer gives a 10% discount for ordering online and no shipping charge if I pick it up at the dealer. May check that option too. Its usually cheaper in the long run for smaller parts.
Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ST-DocLizard1
Same here only it was stuck in the on position. Remove/clean/lube was the answer.
Doc
+3 here
My bike only had 1200 miles when I got it, but rear brake switch was non funtional.
Disassemble
Clean
Goop it up with dielectric grease
Re-assemble
Thanks for all the suggestions - I love forums like this one
Interestingly enough, now I have one to add to the discussion - rubbing alcohol. I was fixing one of those cool 1/24 scale RC tanks (forgot batteries in it a few years ago, haven't touched it since, they leaked out), and WD40 wasn't really effective in cleaning the contacts, i.e. the tank just wouldn't come back to life.
After cleaning them with rubbing alcohol, I immediately got it back to life, much to my daughter's delight.
So, once I get to the brake switch, I'm adding the alcohol to the mix. Until then, off to trying to sort out my turn signal mess... They just stopped working, and it's not the relay. So now I'm going through the motions, one by one.
There are some on fleabay, but everyone is insane on shipping - the cheapest offer I got for $14.50 just for the shipping!!! It's $5 lousy bucks to send an envelope to Canada, for Christ's sake!
So, help me out ppl - will pay top dollar (i.e. $15 or so shipped )
Don't mind me, but if you already have a plate on the bike and don't have to do a Province of Ontario Safety Check, WHY worry about the most useless switch on the bike ?
You'll never use the rear without the front, and you'll use the front without the rear, so why worry about it ?
Don't mind me, but if you already have a plate on the bike and don't have to do a Province of Ontario Safety Check, WHY worry about the most useless switch on the bike ?
You'll never use the rear without the front, and you'll use the front without the rear, so why worry about it ?
I would worry about it because when it malfunctions, it stays closed meaning that your brake light stays on all the time whether you are applying the brakes or not. Someone behind you gets no indication that you are stopping.
I love these forums, thanks to everyone above for saving me 20 bucks to get my "broken" brake switch fixed. Pulled it out and scraped it down and it works like a charm.
Instead of a mechanical switch actuated off of the rear brake lever this one works off hydraulic pressure in the rear brake line. Roughly the same price as a replacement stock switch, but shouldn't have to worry about reliability issues due to corrosion and road grime.
I also sprung for a boot to finish it off a little better
I'm sure that will work alot better, my rear brake switch as
been disconnected for the past 2 years. Don't need it
cause I always use the front brakes first.
Instead of a mechanical switch actuated off of the rear brake lever this one works off hydraulic pressure in the rear brake line. Roughly the same price as a replacement stock switch, but shouldn't have to worry about reliability issues due to corrosion and road grime.
I also sprung for a boot to finish it off a little better
This what I did when mine went out.I keep forgetting I even had to fix mine.
Which is wierd because when mine died, it caught fire, Well that's when I noticed it...
)
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