With the risk of being "slapped" for not searching all the threads, I gotta' ask:
What is the best option to replace the factory turn signals with?
I was watching a few videos on YouTube and apprently the small LED ones are not very bright, and someone might overlook your efforts to get a turn signal across...
Another concern is the "running light" option - I could not find any mini blinkers with that feature - or am I wrong?
I am looking for something as bright as possible, arrowhead shape, black or carbon casing, preferably not clear, for both front and back.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
P.S.: After I see the damage on my bike, I will make sure to ask you folks for parts support - thanks Pvster for you tacho-speedo housing offer - I'll let you know over the weekend!
hmmm.... for the "BEST/BRIGHTEST" option, you cant go wrong with a set of front turn signals from watsens! they're hella spendy though at $150 for the pair!!! so worth it imo if u want front leds. what's even better is they're flush mounted and specific to the 919. PLUS you can get them wired for running lights as well. for the rear, you can either use your stock rear fender and mount up another set of watsens. if you want arrow shaped or the like for the rear, u cannot go wrong with a set of rizomas. they're also steep but not as bad as the watsens and tend to go for ~$40 per light.
if you buy any standard led signal that is 2 wire, they dont have the running light feature. that is easily fixed by soldering in a diode with an extra wire to convert it into a 3 wire. the thread for that is in the 919 helpful topics section.
P.S. lmk if ur interested in the speedo/tach unit/housing and i can take some pictures for you.
grab some late model cbr turn signals if you want good quality visible decent looking ones...
if you want running lights you can convert any standard two wire led turn signals into ones with running lights with a couple of diodes.... i need to find that post that i think rob made about it.
hmmm.... for the "BEST/BRIGHTEST" option, you cant go wrong with a set of front turn signals from watsens! they're hella spendy though at $150 for the pair!!! so worth it imo if u want front leds. what's even better is they're flush mounted and specific to the 919. PLUS you can get them wired for running lights as well. for the rear, you can either use your stock rear fender and mount up another set of watsens. if you want arrow shaped or the like for the rear, u cannot go wrong with a set of rizomas. they're also steep but not as bad as the watsens and tend to go for ~$40 per light.
if you buy any standard led signal that is 2 wire, they dont have the running light feature. that is easily fixed by soldering in a diode with an extra wire to convert it into a 3 wire. the thread for that is in the 919 helpful topics section.
P.S. lmk if ur interested in the speedo/tach unit/housing and i can take some pictures for you.
+1 to all he said. I've seen his Watsens and they're hella bright. See my sig for pics of said Rizoma's. They are probably the second brightest out there and look good, IMO.
grab some late model cbr turn signals if you want good quality visible decent looking ones...
if you want running lights you can convert any standard two wire led turn signals into ones with running lights with a couple of diodes.... i need to find that post that i think rob made about it.
Ive tried looking for diodes at our equivalent of radio shack, no one seems to know what im talking about. What do these look like? And how do you uae them? Are they spliced into the wiring?
or pretty much ANY standard type diode... radioshack has TONS, if the sales person cant find them for you they are blind and should not be working there.
Below is the diagram on how to wire it up. Note that when you flip the turn signal switch to say the left, It 1. connects the blinker relay to properly send the blinking signals to the left blinker, BUT ALSO CUTS power to the running light wire for the left blinker... so you can actually see it blink.
<<Picture removed at request - it was incorrect>> - Moderator Team
hmm... pay 30 bucks + shipping for the same thing that 2 bucks in diodes will accomplish.
LAWLS
Quote:
New high-speed solid state design is compatible with all flasher relays.
Built-in Stage I Load Equalizer prevents the no-blink or 4-way blink condition.
... what a damn fancy way to say a diode! ... in fact for 2 bucks and change from radio shack, you can build yourself an even higher power handeling version of the thing linked to.
BAH the more i read that page the more i rage!!! i mean its good for people who want an already built package, but for how simple the wiring is i just find it hard to believe people buy it!
Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,797
Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
Below is the diagram on how to wire it up. Note that when you flip the turn signal switch to say the left, It 1. connects the blinker relay to properly send the blinking signals to the left blinker, BUT ALSO CUTS power to the running light wire for the left blinker... so you can actually see it blink.
Close ... but no cigar. As it is drawn the circuit will allow the flashers to work, but both the front and rear will stay lit constantly when not flashing, and most states do not allow the rear turn signals to be lit when not signalling for a turn.
Below see a diagram of the original three wire setup and the two wire / diode setup. Notice the diode is installed to block the running light voltage from the rear signal. The connections must be made where the turn signals connect to the harness in the headlight bucket.
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Ive tried looking for diodes at our equivalent of radio shack, no one seems to know what im talking about. What do these look like? And how do you uae them? Are they spliced into the wiring?
if you want some diodes, pm me your mailing address and i'll mail a few over your way.
if you want some diodes, pm me your mailing address and i'll mail a few over your way.
Hey thanks Pvster, missed this one. Lemme make a quick stop to our electronic store again now that I know what I'm looking for. Get back to you if I dont find 'em. Appreciate the love, buddy!
I got flush mount ones off eBay for like $15 but they don't blink they just stay lit and turn off when I hit the blinker haha. Doesn't bother me tho I have an integrated rear light and arms
I got flush mount ones off eBay for like $15 but they don't blink they just stay lit and turn off when I hit the blinker haha. Doesn't bother me tho I have an integrated rear light and arms
sounds like you have wired em up wrong.... specifically put the diode on the blinker lead in the wrong direction. Literally connect the diode in the opposite direction and it should act as running and blinker if you followed the above diagrams.
I just bought some new signals from Cycle Gear...non LED. Question...can I use my new bulb signals as running lights by wiring it the same way as directed in this thread?
sure can, depending on the wattage of the bulb the small 1amp diodes probably wont cut it... so id run the 3amp diodes from radioshack (its what i use on my rear stock tail lights to act as blinkers / running lights)
Location: Santa Maria, CA Otherwise known as heaven on earth.
Posts: 1,797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toast
I just bought some new signals from Cycle Gear...non LED. Question...can I use my new bulb signals as running lights by wiring it the same way as directed in this thread?
Caution is advised here -- the plastic of the turn signal bodies may not be able to handle the heat from the constantly on bulb and may melt. If this is the case a cure is to cut the running light wire and splice in a 3 to 5 ohm 10 watt resistor, one for each side. A three ohm resistor will cut the bulb wattage to roughly 14, a 4 ohm to 11.5, and a 5 ohm to 9.5. It will decrease the the light output as well, but if the turn signals don't melt ... let's just say it's up to you.
Here's a diagram:
Infinitely adjustable, made of the finest materials available, and completely sourced from local suppliers -- gotta support the local economy! Order today and know handlebar Nirvana.
I would go the easier route and replace the bulbs in the turn signals with multi-SMD LED bulb replacement, which may be much brighter than the original incandescents.
I would go the easier route and replace the bulbs in the turn signals with multi-SMD LED bulb replacement, which may be much brighter than the original incandescents.
If I replace the bulb with the LED bulb replacement, would I have to get a new flasher relay?
@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.
@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).
@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.
@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).
+1. I wired the resistors inline first, then got the relay later. Stupid. Should have sprung for the $20 relay and saved myself 4 hours of work.
With the uncertainty of my signals not being able to withstand the heat from the running lights, I'm thinking about just wiring a couple LEDs inside the air ducts facing outwards as running lights. That might be less of a headache as well if I just splice the power in with a fuse. Hmmmmm
Edit:Picture is with OEM signals still, haven't installed the newer ones.
@toast: yes you would. any LED type bulb will reduce the load placed on the circuit and therefore need the flasher replay unless you wire in resisters.
@cb700S: you could do that but they're too directional which actually decreases effectiveness. you're better off getting an actual LED signal of decent quality or better (rizomas or the like, not those cheap ebay crap).
That depends on which type you use. I have found this type of design (with SMD LED units) to be highly effective for converting incandescent reflector type signal units.
That said - yes, a decent purpose-designed LED signal will usually be better than an LED-adapted conventional unit.
i get what you're saying CB700S and you're correct in reference to the wording i chose. i forgot to mention something else which addresses your point. yes those LED units you posted works well for scattering the light output and looks good up close, but they wont be bright 50 feet away.
i've tried them and they suck. just not enough wattage to go the distance needed to be useable at night, much less during the day.
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