Suspension Rebuild

[fehren2800]

Well, I am just starting to tear into my 900RR rebuild. The left fork is leaking and has a cracked seal so it looks like time for a rebuild. I would just do it myself, but I want to have them make sure the forks are straight after the crash.

Who is the go to suspension guy these days? I am looking for a simple rebuild new oil job.

Thanks.

Here is a pic of the "progress"

[zaq123]

just do it yourself. ~$80 for seals and new bushings from the dealer, $25 for 1L of good fluid.

As far as making sure they are straight goes, any motorcycle tire balancer and $15 magnetic dial gauge from harbor freight tools will do the job

[fehren2800]

The seals are not leaking because they are old and worn out. There is a scratch somewhere in the surface of the tube, I can see some faint scuffing on the sliders near the seals. They will need to be polished, which is why I want to send them out to be done right. In the current condition new seals and bushings will only last a short while before the leak comes back.

[HondaJim]

There is a self-employed mechanic in Louisville a lot of people around the country use. 90% of his work is on Hondas. I know him personally. He could easily handle this if you want to use him. Just let me know.

I'd do it myself if I were you but I understand if you don't want to. You can check alignment a couple of ways.

Is this the forks off of the purchased bike?

[zaq123]

Originally Posted by fehren2800

The seals are not leaking because they are old and worn out. There is a scratch somewhere in the surface of the tube, I can see some faint scuffing on the sliders near the seals. They will need to be polished, which is why I want to send them out to be done right. In the current condition new seals and bushings will only last a short while before the leak comes back.

If it's polishable, you can polish it yourself. Post a pic of it. Suspension experts have have no special secrets as far as polishing goes. You will need one kind of polishing compound that is hard to find in the store - it's called "elbow grease". In any case, cash spent on the labor will get you whole new slider or two. Again, this is just the way I look at as seals replacement is pretty simple task in my book. However you can't go wrong with the expert.



Spy photo of Dan Kyle polishing the shaft. Very precise and scientific process.

a little bit of lube will go a long way

[mcromo44]

Originally Posted by fehren2800

The seals are not leaking because they are old and worn out. There is a scratch somewhere in the surface of the tube, I can see some faint scuffing on the sliders near the seals. They will need to be polished, which is why I want to send them out to be done right. In the current condition new seals and bushings will only last a short while before the leak comes back.

An old method for polishing diameters by hand, is to take some red crocus cloth, the real fine 1000 or finer grade, wrap it around the diameter, then wind some rawhide around it and see saw back and forth using the ends of the rawhide. Use ATF as fluid. (Ancient trick for crankshaft journals that need polishing.) Also, for lip seals on tubes, corrective action and final polishing is best done perpendicular to the line of seal movement, not parallel to. Crocus is too fine to "repair" scuffs, you may need to start with some light work with 600 wet paper before moving to the Crocus. Final polishing with compound is fine, and by the time you get to that stage it won't matter if your polishing action is parallel or perpendicular to the tube length.

[fehren2800]

Originally Posted by HondaJim

There is a self-employed mechanic in Louisville a lot of people around the country use. 90% of his work is on Hondas. I know him personally. He could easily handle this if you want to use him. Just let me know.

I'd do it myself if I were you but I understand if you don't want to. You can check alignment a couple of ways.

Is this the forks off of the purchased bike?

Thanks Jim. Could you contact your local guy and see what the $$$ will be? I haven't had a set of forks rebuilt in about 4 or 5 years, but the quotes I'm getting are higher than I remember. For what they want I got springs, rebuild and gold valves for.

Originally Posted by zaq123

If it's polishable, you can polish it yourself. Post a pic of it. Suspension experts have have no special secrets as far as polishing goes. You will need one kind of polishing compound that is hard to find in the store - it's called "elbow grease". In any case, cash spent on the labor will get you whole new slider or two. Again, this is just the way I look at as seals replacement is pretty simple task in my book. However you can't go wrong with the expert.

Originally Posted by mcromo44

An old method for polishing diameters by hand, is to take some red crocus cloth, the real fine 1000 or finer grade, wrap it around the diameter, then wind some rawhide around it and see saw back and forth using the ends of the rawhide. Use ATF as fluid. (Ancient trick for crankshaft journals that need polishing.) Also, for lip seals on tubes, corrective action and final polishing is best done perpendicular to the line of seal movement, not parallel to. Crocus is too fine to "repair" scuffs, you may need to start with some light work with 600 wet paper before moving to the Crocus. Final polishing with compound is fine, and by the time you get to that stage it won't matter if your polishing action is parallel or perpendicular to the tube length.

You both make valid arguments. I don't even need to buy a new slider if this one is junk, I have another set to have for parts. I priced the bushings and seals and it will only be $100 or so plus fluid and my time. Time is running out however and I don't have the facilities for the job, but I can make due to save a buck or two. I have always wanted to tackle suspension, but I would like to do it at my leisure.

Maybe, I'll give it a go.

[touring919]

Don't even need to bother with the polishing steps. 600 git paper sanding perpendicular to the fork travel will clean up the scratches. Leaving it as is with 600 grit will actually lower the amount of sticktion that the seals have over the tube.