Is there anyway to maintenance and grease steering stem bearing w/o droping triple tree.
No there isn't.
While not near as much an issue nowadays as it used to be, because of the larger bearings now used, it's still a good idea to get at the bearings and simply rotate the bearing ball cage about 90 degrees, and the free race 270 degrees, once a year on high annual mileage bikes. This is just to prevent both races and the most loaded balls from always being aligned with each other, and resulting in localized wear.
Of course, once apart to do that, some fresh grease is an easy proposition.
Last is the picky picky job of tightening up the stem and getting it "just so", which is never a "first time got it bang on" experience.
does the 919 come with tapered needle style or ball type? either way, no way you can grease em without pretty much disassembling the tree..
Probably gonna grease mine up soon when i get new tires, as the front will be off anyways.... just changed out both bearings n races in my CRF250X.... god that was a pain to get those fuggin races out.
does the 919 come with tapered needle style or ball type? either way, no way you can grease em without pretty much disassembling the tree..
Probably gonna grease mine up soon when i get new tires, as the front will be off anyways.... just changed out both bearings n races in my CRF250X.... god that was a pain to get those fuggin races out.
both of those grease spots are pointless.... the upper zerk is below the actual bearing... no grease will actuall get in any meaningful form to the upper bearing..
same goes for the bottom... theres a dust seal on the bottom and top, grease aint gonna magically move against gravity through a dust seal.
just orderd some of those taperd ones for my drz 400 sm never done this before will i need special tools or any tricks i should know before i start oh ya ill be using one of those craftsman motorcycle jacks will i have to pull the front wheel. this should be an adventure.
i used a big flat head that i ground the head to match the radius of the upper lip of the races.... slide the screw driver perpendicular to the stem so the head is above the lip of the race so the screwdriver is in a position to pry the race out.... BUT DONT PRY IT OUT LIKE THAT.. now use a big socket (that will fit down the tube of the stem) with a long extension, and use that to hit the screwdriver shaft.... this makes for a very positive bite on the race with the ability to really wale on it. also an 8 lb sledge hammer makes things easy.
Note- you obviously do not need to remove the races if your just greasing.... if your installing new bearings then yes you will need to remove the race.
hell i remember my buddy on all our bikes drill and install a grease fitting in the neck and pump it full of grease untill you could see it start to squeeze out the bearings....yes theres a way ....same with fork fluid
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hell i remember my buddy on all our bikes drill and install a grease fitting in the neck and pump it full of grease untill you could see it start to squeeze out the bearings....yes theres a way ....same with fork fluid
LOL... i guess if you filled up the entire steering stem cavity full of grease then it would migrate through the bearings.... but i forsee that much grease causing issues as far as seeping out over time.
LOL... i guess if you filled up the entire steering stem cavity full of grease then it would migrate through the bearings.... but i forsee that much grease causing issues as far as seeping out over time.
seeping never seemed to be an issue,,and never had bearing issues
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