So I took my rear wheel in to be powder coated and it came back with idiot problems. lets see if you can spot them.
Anyone know how to remove powder coating? Is this going to be a serious problem?
To my credit, I took 2 wheels there before and they did them perfectly without any problems so I didn't think I needed to explain to them what not to powder coat. I thought areas without paint was pretty self explanatory but you never know when stupidity is going to strike.
Cush drive will probably not be a issue - whats powder coat thickness - .5 mm?
The brake just requires a careful file or sand down. Careful as you want to ensure it remains even. Careful as in do it yourself so some ham-fisted-drongo with a angle grinder does not do permanent damage.
Unless they have some magical chemical it's abrasives to get it off. I used acetone to clean mine last fall. Acetone is about as strong a solvent as you can buy and powdercoating is completely impervious to it.
First choice - Take it back
Second choice - dremel and a wire wheel
__________________
No plan survives first contact...but there's always a plan.
take em back dude! tell em this is useless. wow that really sucks. no room for cush drivem bolts, etc... damn!
Ha! Did Called this afternoon and talked to the owner. he's gonna fix it up for me
Cush drive will be fine but they PCd over the mating surface/seal area between the wheel and the 'driven flange' (cush drive). That area will have to be cleaned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic954
So......your talking maybe a 1mm offset at the rear brake rotor....and the cush drive has a little play.
Think I'd just take some sand paper to the rear brake rotor area and call it good.
It may even not cause problems as is.....the rear brake rotor is self centering.
I'm not fucking around with the breaks.... they are too important to leave to chance. Also, powder coat in the bolt holes will probably screw up my torque values so I'm going to at least have to run a thread chaser thought there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr T81
looks like someone is doing a 6 spoke wheel conversion
Already done
I had the front and rear powder coated last summer but when I went in to have rubber mounted they found a dent in the rim that was so bad they couldn't get it to balance. So some jerk ripped me off for $75 and then the PC cost me another $50
Anyway, I bought a new wheel/tire/cush drive set off a guy in Cali which was great. Road it all summer and now I'm getting it PCd before mounting my new rubber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by g00gl3it
I'm doing the same thing. Got a dremel tool and a wire wheel? It'll come off.
Eventually.
So what parts do I NOT want to powdercoat? The inner cush drive portion?
and of course the outer section where the o-ring goes.
Just that area where the oring mounts and the mounting face for the rotor. that's it. (and then obviously the bearing seating area. No way you would get bearings in with PC in there )
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanB
Cush drive will probably not be a issue - whats powder coat thickness - .5 mm?
The brake just requires a careful file or sand down. Careful as you want to ensure it remains even. Careful as in do it yourself so some ham-fisted-drongo with a angle grinder does not do permanent damage.
Other than that the wheel look great.
I hope that's not the case. I'll be pissed if they fuck it up further and they will be buying me a new wheel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyCatcher
Unless they have some magical chemical it's abrasives to get it off. I used acetone to clean mine last fall. Acetone is about as strong a solvent as you can buy and powdercoating is completely impervious to it.
First choice - Take it back
Second choice - dremel and a wire wheel
PC is, first and foremost, a paint. It can be removed with paint strippers.
PC is, first and foremost, a paint. It can be removed with paint strippers.
zip strip will take it off, the 2nd or 3rd time you do it letting it sit overnight each time.
i pc my own stuff and try very,very hard to get it right. i've only had to strip it 2 times in 7-8 years. it sucks to get off
__________________
'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
zip strip will take it off, the 2nd or 3rd time you do it letting it sit overnight each time.
i pc my own stuff and try very,very hard to get it right. i've only had to strip it 2 times in 7-8 years. it sucks to get off
It just so happens the active ingredient in Zip Strip is Methylene Chloride which from what I can find is the primary means of removing powdercoating. Good to know.
__________________
No plan survives first contact...but there's always a plan.
It just so happens the active ingredient in Zip Strip is Methylene Chloride which from what I can find is the primary means of removing powdercoating. Good to know.
yup,zip strip is just a well known product most people could relate to, others will work.
__________________
'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
not the best method for precision removal of powder coat but if you ever need to get it all off and don't want to spend more than a couple minutes at it oxy acetylene knocks it right off you don't need to heat the metal just the paint needles to say you would ned to remove all rubber, oil, grease, ect.
I have used a oxy propane pin torch for localized removal but it hard not to remove what you don't want to best to use it to get a hole in the powder coat to speed removal with sand paper.
__________________
Common sense. So rare it's a god damn super power.