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Old 01-22-2012, 08:57 PM   #1
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Do-it-yourself Pillion peg delete rearset

When I got my 919 (very recently) I noticed that the right side pillion peg mount was broken. No matter - I want to delete those pegs anyway, AND the spars that they attach to.

Of course, the spars are part of the rearset... and hacking off the spars would look kinda bad, I think. Sato rearsets are very nice, and worth $545.00, but I do not have that kind of cash. Besides, I'm fairly new to road bikes, and I really should have folding pegs right now.

So, I took some measurements, fired up Solidworks, and came up with these plates that use the stock hardware:




I faced the grids outward because I ended up liking the look, and because putting them towards the inside made the plates look very plain.

I can either drop them in the next box of parts at work that goes out for anodize, or I can powder coat them in the paint booth at home. Either way, the total cost will be for material only (a chunk of AL6061-T6511) - good thing I can run MasterCAM.

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Old 01-22-2012, 10:02 PM   #2
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How much? I'd be interested in a set.

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Old 01-22-2012, 10:15 PM   #3
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If there is interest, I can look into having a run of parts made. Let me get these prototypes working and I'll see it the design is good first.
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Old 01-22-2012, 10:45 PM   #4
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Nice work! Might wana consider a more slender/skeletonized look as an alternative. Leaning to a overbuilt, industrial look now.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:00 PM   #5
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I'll be interested... I'm curious what the more skeletonized look would be also, but I would prefer to see anything you make on the bike before I grab a set.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:34 AM   #6
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Very cool. Did you allow for the mounting shaft for the brake arm & spring/stoplight holders on the inside of the right step? You could use a hydraulic brake light switch.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:58 AM   #7
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Nice work! Might wana consider a more slender/skeletonized look as an alternative. Leaning to a overbuilt, industrial look now.
I agree after sleeping on it, they look really beefy. Thinning them down is super-easy. I'll try that.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:00 AM   #8
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Very cool. Did you allow for the mounting shaft for the brake arm & spring/stoplight holders on the inside of the right step? You could use a hydraulic brake light switch.
Yes, the mounting shaft is bolted through the bracket with a socket head cap screw. The other two brackets are screw-on brackets on the back side. Good point on the hydraulic switch, though adding the brackets is not a big deal.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:56 AM   #9
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Thinned and lightened:




Doesn't hurt that the mass went down by about 20%!
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:27 AM   #10
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Very nice job! I would be interested but i have kids so I need the pillion pegs.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:39 AM   #11
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I like them. Do you have a picture of them on the bike?

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Old 01-23-2012, 10:50 AM   #12
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I like them. Do you have a picture of them on the bike?

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They don't exist yet - still a CAD model dream. It won't be long, though - I'm already looking at machine time for the parts.
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Old 01-23-2012, 04:05 PM   #13
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Cool. I would love to see them on the bike but so far I am at a 90% that I would buy a set.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:50 PM   #14
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Cool. I would love to see them on the bike but so far I am at a 90% that I would buy a set.
I second that.
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:01 AM   #15
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If you were able to make them adjustable, that would be a huge bonus...
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #16
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If you were able to make them adjustable, that would be a huge bonus...
This design is currently optimized for one person (me of course), and I like the stock setup. I could definitely come up with a new design that is adjustable, though.

How would we want this to adjust? I assume the peg location would need to move around (mostly back and up).
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:50 AM   #17
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Just stumbled across this:

El cheapo rearsets for the 9er



and realized that they would pair up nicely with the rearsets I'm working on.

Personally, I like the stock peg location (I am 6' 2", with extra-long arms), so I really don't need to adjust them.

I've decided to leave my design mostly alone, except to add a provision for a heel guard on the left side (probably carbon fiber, since I can whip that up tin the garage). I've got the metal now, so I plan to get the blanks into the CNC sometime this week.
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:13 PM   #18
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Nice looking forward to how they turn out
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:36 PM   #19
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Last weekend I found the time to run the rearsets through the CNC mill, and to make a few other parts.

Here are some pictures of the CNC mill carving out the shapes (this took about seven different cutters, not including the drills and taps):




















Here are the finished parts (not powder coated yet):




The right side has a pin on the back side for the brake lever:




I made up some stock, flat, 3-ply carbon to make the left side heel guard:




I also had to make a little T-bracket for the brake light switch, since I didn't have any suitable metal. Gee, darn.




This is the final piece:




And this is the assembly:




And finally, I mounted everything up to check fitment!
















Then I had to go out of town on business, so I have not had a chance to try these out. Hopefully tomorrow!

Now seriously, these were a LOT of work to make. I can get them quoted in quantity ten sets, but I have a feeling you guys would balk at the price. Never know, though.

Some would say, "make them as castings" and they are probably on the right track. I have no experience with that yet, though.
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:31 PM   #20
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They look very good!
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Old 02-23-2012, 05:36 PM   #21
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Nice!
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:17 PM   #22
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damn that is nice, i would like to see it without the heal gaurd. not that i will be buy 1 (no 919 anymore) by the looks of it u would have to be some crazy shit to ever touch it. but that may be just camera angle.
nice work. now just to get you to make 1 for my vfr.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #23
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That's art! Very nice work.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:42 PM   #24
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Wow! I'm very impressed! If only I had that kind of talent...
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #25
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damn that is nice, i would like to see it without the heal gaurd. not that i will be buy 1 (no 919 anymore) by the looks of it u would have to be some crazy shit to ever touch it. but that may be just camera angle.
nice work. now just to get you to make 1 for my vfr.

Yeah, I'll have to see if the heel guard is in the right place or not. Sitting on the bike in the garage, my heel is on teh guard when the ball of my foot is on the peg, but there's sitting and then there's riding...
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:51 PM   #26
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Definitely doesn't look cheap. Piece of art though. Awesome job! I would say sign me up, but re-buying parts that were stolen off my bike in the fall is eating up my 9er cash
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:56 PM   #27
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Very nice
Thanks for all the pictures!
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:43 PM   #28
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outstanding design work! ya gotta love cnc. imagine doing that old school? many hrs.

very nice job
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:48 PM   #29
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Those came out real nice!!! Wonder what the weight savings are over stock..
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:52 AM   #30
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Thats amazing work!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:58 AM   #31
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F-n sweet mate. Loving this work on the 9er. There is plenty of life in the bike.
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:23 AM   #32
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Those came out real nice!!! Wonder what the weight savings are over stock..

Got yer numbers here.

The numbers for the stock pieces are without the pillion pegs and other hardware (bare castings only).

Left side:
OEM - 747 grams
new - 248 grams
67% reduction

Right side:
OEM - 830 grams
new - 317 grams
62% reduction

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Old 03-01-2012, 09:43 AM   #33
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I wantz!

So with all the congrats, nobody asked the million dollar question - how much?
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:21 AM   #34
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I wantz!

So with all the congrats, nobody asked the million dollar question - how much?
I'm thinking probably too much. I have NO feel for the market, and knowing more would either get me off my kiester to get quotes for parts, or confirm my suspicion that these things are too pricey.

What's a price people would be willing to pay? That's the big question.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:25 AM   #35
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One way of reducing costs would be to use a after market bolt in foot peg. The base stock of ally would be significantly reduced as you'd not need to machine the peg holder. Plus heaps less machining. The peg cost would be lower than machine and alloy costs.
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:45 AM   #36
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One way of reducing costs would be to use a after market bolt in foot peg. The base stock of ally would be significantly reduced as you'd not need to machine the peg holder. Plus heaps less machining. The peg cost would be lower than machine and alloy costs.
So true. Do they have those that fold? I didn't even look.
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:35 AM   #37
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Quote:
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I wantz!

So with all the congrats, nobody asked the million dollar question - how much?

i think you answered your own question,lol
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:13 AM   #38
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Full on, adjustable rear-sets run $300-$500 ?
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:36 PM   #39
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I'm thinking probably too much. I have NO feel for the market, and knowing more would either get me off my kiester to get quotes for parts, or confirm my suspicion that these things are too pricey.

What's a price people would be willing to pay? That's the big question.
Well, that is a "chicken or egg" sort of a discussion. As a general guideline, you can use normal manufacturing profit margins, as well as distribution/wholesale margins. As a manufacturer of a hardware bit, you want to make 40+%. As a distributor, you want to make 30%.

I'll disagree with curiousmike, as that's close to the price of a set of SATOs.

Would I pay $100 to $150 - absolutely. Would I pay $200+? Probably not. Can you arrange a group buy on here, so you have commitments from at least 10 people - yes you can.
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:20 PM   #40
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I'll disagree with curiousmike, as that's close to the price of a set of SATOs.

Would I pay $100 to $150 - absolutely. Would I pay $200+? Probably not. Can you arrange a group buy on here, so you have commitments from at least 10 people - yes you can.

I'm not saying that's what he should charge.
I'm saying, that's what adjustable SATO's run.

Your $100-$150 range is what I was thinking; $100 is a no-brainer (presuming they work as advertised), where $150 is the "think about it" category.

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