about 2 months ago, i decided that i wasn't going to ride for a while considering the snow that we might get here in PA and the salt/gravel/ash that the county and state puts on the roads in winter time to make sure they dont get icy. i started my bike one last time and let it run for a while to get the fuel stabilizer through the system and afterward removed the battery and hooked it up to the battery tender i have.
fast forward to today: i go home from school and unhook the battery from the tender, hook it up to the bike, turn the key and..... nothing. not even the indicator lights on the display. took the battery to the harley/honda dealer by my house and had them check it out; turns out it was only outputting 6.1 volts and one cell tested completely dead. so i had to buy another battery for $158
anyone else ever had this happen? it was my first experience with a battery tender... i had two others hooked up to a quad battery and tractor battery and neither of them kill the respective batteries.
I've seen it happen when it was a "dumb" trickle charger hooked up with the polarity reversed. If you are actually using a "Battery Tender" brand, they have circuitry to prevent damage in the event of reversal. As a matter of fact, I've seen a 12-volt car battery have the voltage reversed by having a 10-amp charger hooked up backwards to the mostly dead battery. It would actually start and run the car with the poles reversed! (I wouldn't recommend this for battery longevity!)
__________________
When seconds count, the police are only minutes away! Support Concealed Carry & the Right to Keep and Bear Arms!
"Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other." - John Adams
My Battery tender has always worked perfectly - well, expect on batteries that were gone before I put it on - BU,t it doesnt sound like that was your case -
If its a Battery Tender brand , give them a call and tell them what happened, you might have on that needs replacing . Good folks down there, Im sure they would be willing to help you out - http://www.batterytender.com/
__________________
" Any book is a childrens book , if the kid can read !"
Mitch Hedburg
I've heard that if you have the water type batteries and a dumb charger that constantly trickles, it can evaporate all the water and kill the battery. Just another thought since I don't know what battery type or 'tender' type you have/had.
took the battery to the harley/honda dealer by my house and had them check it out; turns out it was only outputting 6.1 volts and one cell tested completely dead. so i had to buy another battery for $158
How are the cells tested on a sealed/maintainance free battery?
i have no idea how they test the batteries, I took it to Z&M in Greensburg and the guy took the battery in the back to do the testing. They're one of the larger Honda/Harley dealers in the area so I figure they have some sort of computer that they hook the batteries up to.
On a side note, they charged me $158 for the battery... found the same battery online for $80 the next day. I always knew Z&M charged a bit more for items but didn't realize how much until now. So if you need a new bike battery make sure you look online first, don't know if your local dealers jack the prices up too or not
My point being, you cannot test individual cells on a 919 sealed battery. The OEM or equivalent aftermarket battery is completely sealed unless it was some cheap azz Wallymart battery.
yeah i understand your point... thats why i was offering the chance that there is some piece of equipment that they have up there that can somehow test it. they've got just about everything else you can think of in the shop
My point being, you cannot test individual cells on a 919 sealed battery. The OEM or equivalent aftermarket battery is completely sealed unless it was some cheap azz Wallymart battery.
I think that if a battery is sealed, there is no way for the water to evaporate and get out. it eveaporates , condenses and re-fills the cells - Maybe ?
Typically, batteries are tested for all cells, Ive heard some techs tell people that there was a dead cell, but, Im guessing they just mean it isnt holding a charge or putting out the correct voltage.
FYI - Parts Unlimited MSRP for your battery - a Yusa YTZ10S , looks like its a gel type , maybe ? - is $162.95 , so @ 158 you did get a bit of a discount.
__________________
" Any book is a childrens book , if the kid can read !"
Mitch Hedburg
While on the subject of batteries.... How in the @&$% do you get the thing back in the slot??? I took mine out to charge and install the leads for a trickle charger, but getting the thing back into the slot is impossible. I am sure it is something easy... but I am having zero luck.
While on the subject of batteries.... How in the @&$% do you get the thing back in the slot??? I took mine out to charge and install the leads for a trickle charger, but getting the thing back into the slot is impossible. I am sure it is something easy... but I am having zero luck.
i think you have experienced the dreaded "battery swell" from overcharging......
j/k... it will fit just have patience and wiggle it and stop trying to force it.... its annoying but it will go back...
you have to line up the leads right... the positive lead has to go on sideways, same with the negative. there's a diagram of it in the manual i think. the positive lead should go on so that the wire comes back toward the negative. (dont have my bike or a picture of the leads to show you) then just slide it in the slot on the battery box and it should go in. connect the negative cable once you get the battery back in 80% of the way.
oh yeah, take the seat off too if you havent already
Just had a similar problem on a 599 battery. I use a "smart" charger with a connector attached to the battery. Have never had a problem related to charging. The motor started it up with no problem and I rode it to work. Tried to start it at noon and ..... NOTHING. Heard a small POP sound when I pressed the starter switch and the rest sounds just like your situation. My experience has been that car batteries die more slowly and give you some warning. Cycle batteries seem to die suddenly with no warning. I seriously doubt the charging had anything to do with the failure. I replaced the battery and everything worked perfect again. After giving it some thought I realized the battery was still original and 6 years old. In short, the cells probably fell apart. It was a maintenance free battery and the smart charger helped make it last for 6 years. I could not ask for much more. I am now looking at the batteries in my other vehicles. A failure at home is annoying. A failure on the road really sucks.....
New testers are available that provide an AC current generated from the DC input from your battery that test the continuity and capacitance of the battery internally and can isolate the fact that the battery has a bad cell. See Midtronics--I don't have a link, but that's the brand we use at the dealership for cars, batteries have the same technology cars to bikes. D
New testers are available that provide an AC current generated from the DC input from your battery that test the continuity and capacitance of the battery internally and can isolate the fact that the battery has a bad cell. See Midtronics--I don't have a link, but that's the brand we use at the dealership for cars, batteries have the same technology cars to bikes. D
Not for nothin, but when you took your battery out, where did you put it? If you just puy it on the concrete in your garage, it discharged it self faster than it could charge! Might not be any thing wrong with the charger... Most of them will float it if it comes to full charge, unless you had that bad girl on bare concrete...
__________________
2007 CB900f- sold
2009 K1300s- rockin out
Linear Mode
Chevy Camaro Forum
Ford Mustang Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum
Volkswagen Touareg Forum
Land Rover Defender Forum
