919 Valve clearance check - Wrist Twisters
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post #1 of 87 Old 12-25-2008, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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919 Valve clearance check

This is the 3rd check on my 05 9r at 48764 miles. I checked them at 22k and adjusted them at 33k about ten months ago.

The procedure is covered in the shop manual but could use better pictures. So I decided to take some and post them here.

Start by removing seat and side covers. Disconnect negative terminal of the battery. I removed mine and put it on a tender.

P1010147.JPG

P1010148.JPG

Remove fuel tank: loosen fuel tank mounting bolt, pull tank back, lift front of tank and wedge a spacer under it to hold it up. Then remove safety wire retaining bolt.
P1010149.JPG

P1010150.JPG

P1010151.JPG

Remove 2 vent hoses and disconnect the fuel pump wiring connector.
P1010152.JPG

Place a rag under fuel supply line and remove the nut, washers and fuel line.
P1010153.JPG

Crimp the fuel return line and disconnect it.
P1010154.JPG

Remove the fuel tank mounting bolt. Carefully raise tank off the bike to prevent scratches.

I'm planning on replacing the in-tank fuel filter, so I needed to drain the tank.
P1010155.JPG


P1010156.JPG

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post #2 of 87 Old 12-25-2008, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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P1010157.JPG

P1010158.JPG

P1010159.JPG

Next are the crankcase breather and the coolant overflow hoses.
P1010160.JPG

Now's a good time to replace the coolant.
P1010161.JPG

Remove radiator mounting bolts.
P1010162.JPG

P1010163.JPG

Remove coolant filler neck screw and disconnect top radiator hose from block.
P1010164.JPG

Disconnect fan.
P1010165.JPG

Remove radiator with upper and lower hoses and place aside.
P1010166.JPG

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post #3 of 87 Old 12-25-2008, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention, not that I needed to, that the PAIR system has been removed. So if you don't have the block-off plates, make sure to order a set from Semi-gray before you start.

Here's Ken's write-up on the PAIR block off plates: http://www.wristtwisters.com/forum/s...8587#post88587

Note: The new plates have a hole drilled out for the reed screw, so don't need to remove them.

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post #4 of 87 Old 12-25-2008, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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.P1010167.JPG

P1010168.JPG

Spark plug wires are next. Write the numbers on the booth using a sharpie.
P1010169.JPG

P1010170.JPG

Front coil needs to be removed, rear is optional. Make sure you make a note of the wiring connections.
P1010171.JPG

P1010172.JPG

P1010173.JPG

P1010174.JPG

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post #5 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 07:52 AM
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Mike: Thanks for taking the time to document this How-To.

When the first 4 cylinder CB750 Honda came out in 1969 everyone complained what a PIA the valve adjustment was going to be. In the time it took to read this thread I could have checked and adjusted the valve lash on one of those old 750's.

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post #6 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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Mike, not a big deal but you're welcome. Pictures like these would've helped me with the first check, so I'm trying to make it easier for people who are planning on doing their own check. You probably won't need to adjust them, but at least you'll know for sure.

This is the vacuum hose routing; not related, but it'll be usefull in the future.
P1010184.JPG

If you have a Circuit 1 pulser cover, you need to remove it.
P1010175.JPG

Install stock cover and remove timing hole cover.
P1010178.JPG

Remove 6 bolts and valve cover.
P1010183.JPG

View from Cyl. 1 side.
P1010176.JPG

View from Cyl. 4 side.
P1010177.JPG

Like Bucky mentioned, Honda numbered the cylinders backwards (?). Timing chain is usually on the Cyl. 1 side.


EDIT: BTW I didn't release the tension on the timing chain as specified. Not sure what purpose that serves when checking the clearance. I never rotate the crank in the opposite direction. You'll need to release it for camshaft removal though, in case the clearance is not within range.

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post #7 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 10:30 AM
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Thanks for the post.

Ride Red or Go Home!!!
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post #8 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 11:16 AM
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Great photo journalism. This will come in handy when I do my check. Thanks.

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post #9 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Rotate crankshaft (14mm deep socket) to line up the T mark with the notch on cover.
1.JPG

Make sure you're on TDC of Cyl. 1.
2.JPG

Check intake valves of Cyl. 1.
3.JPG

And intake valves of Cyl. 3.
4.JPG

Rotate crank 180 degrees and line up this mark with notch on cover. (The marks are lined up, bad camera angle.)
5.JPG

These are the marks on cam sprockets at this point.
6.JPG

Check exhaust valves of Cyl. 2.
7.JPG


And exhaust valves of Cyl. 4.
8.JPG

Intake: .13mm to .19mm / .005" to .007"
Exhaust: .22mm to .28mm / .009" to .011"

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post #10 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Rotate crank back to T mark.
1.JPG

Cams at this point.
P1010154.JPG

Check intake valves of Cyl. 2.
P1010155.JPG

And intake valves of Cyl. 4.
P1010156.JPG

Rotate crank 180 degrees and line up marks.
5.JPG

Cams at this point.
P1010158.JPG

Check exhaust valves of Cyl. 1.
P1010159.JPG

And exhaust valves of Cyl. 3.
P1010160.JPG

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post #11 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 12:18 PM
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great step by step....

and you have freakishly hairy hands there monkeyboy...

j/k
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post #12 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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An excellent time to replace the spark plugs; I'm going with the Iridiums again (NGK CR8EHIX-9). I have over 13k miles on the last set. I usually replace them at 8k miles, but Rob has changed that too. So far Rob has saved me money on spark plugs, rear brake rotor and pads.

Some random shots on the lift.
P1010163.JPG

P1010164.JPG

P1010165.JPG

Well, won't need to remove the camshafts this time, so it's time to put her back together. But if there was even one out of range, I would've adjusted four more. One of the intake valves of Cyl. 3 and both exhaust valves of Cyl. 4 were on the loose side of the tolerance; and one of the exhaust valves of Cyl. 4 was on the tight side but within tolerance. All four could've been, and would've been if it was a race bike, adjusted closer to spec. by shim replacement.

I'm done with the shims and can return them to Mister Mike or to anyone else who's ready to do the clearance check. There's 10 shims in the WT kit; I'll post the sizes later.

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post #13 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barton664 View Post
great step by step....

and you have freakishly hairy hands there monkeyboy...

j/k
You don't even want to see my back.

It helps in the cold winters though.

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post #14 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
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You don't even want to see my back.

It helps in the cold winters though.
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post #15 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 01:57 PM
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Nice write up!

This has inspired me to check mine out come spring.

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post #16 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokali View Post
Like Bucky mentioned, Honda numbered the cylinders backwards (?). Timing chain is usually on the Cyl. 1 side.
All Honda inline fours have had the same cylinder numbering since 1969. #1 cylinder on the left while sitting on the bike.

Keep the instructions/photos coming.

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post #17 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 02:41 PM
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Thanks for taking time to document Mike! My valve checks are just around the corner. I have read the service manual, but real pics really help.

For anyone who has done the checks, is removing the tank required? The manual just says to raise it. I'm sure it would make it easier.

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post #18 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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No, it's not necessary to remove tank as seen in this picture.

P1010149.JPG

I'm replacing the in-tank fuel filter and wanted to take a few pictures of the fuel level sensor arm for S&G.

You don't need to remove the radiator either, just support it out of the way.

I just like to have clear access to whatever I'm working on.

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post #19 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sokali View Post
No, it's not necessary to remove tank as seen in this picture.

Attachment 8838

I'm replacing the in-tank fuel filter and wanted to take a few pictures of the fuel level sensor arm for S&G.

You don't need to remove the radiator either, just support it out of the way.

I just like to have clear access to whatever I'm working on.
Thanks!!

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post #20 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing the spark plugs can't get any easier than this.
P1010145.JPG

Sorry about the bad pic, but here's a trick most of you already know: a piece of hose to get the plugs started.
P1010143.JPG

P1010144.JPG

Might as well check the clamps on the throttle bodies...
P1010146.JPG

and intake ports.
P1010147.JPG

Install valve cover, coils, radiator, and fuel tank in reverse order following the instructions of the shop manual. Remember to get 2 crush washers for the fuel supply line if you took off the tank. And a pulser cover gasket if you have the Circuit 1 cover. Bleeding the cooling system has been covered, just do a search. Post up if you have any specific questions.

FWIW I'm not using a torque wrench for any of the fasteners. I'll probably post up more pics and comments as I continue working on the bike. I still have to change the oil and relocate the front turn signals. Stay tuned.

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post #21 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterMike View Post
When the first 4 cylinder CB750 Honda came out in 1969 everyone complained what a PIA the valve adjustment was going to be. In the time it took to read this thread I could have checked and adjusted the valve lash on one of those old 750's.
If you're looking for a fun project, try adjusting the valves on a Honda V4 motor with DOHC. I did a friend's Magna a couple of years ago... Love those little camshafts, all four of them.

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post #22 of 87 Old 12-26-2008, 09:03 PM
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Pictures are fantastic. An indescribable improvement over the black-and-white-and-more-black pictures in my Honda shop manual.

Can we get Honda to post the original color versions of the pictures that they copied into the manuals?

Just kidding.

Sort of.

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post #23 of 87 Old 12-27-2008, 08:08 AM
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Sokali... Great post!....

Did you use a straight feeler gauge or an off set?...Wondering if there is enough room to use the straight feeler gauge..

Also, that tricky #3 spark plug, I found a magnetic spark socket does wonders..

http://www.unitool.com/product.cfm?C...uctTypeID=2076

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post #24 of 87 Old 12-27-2008, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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A straight one bent at an angle. Gives you more surface than the offset ones.

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post #25 of 87 Old 12-27-2008, 08:22 AM
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This post needs to be a permantent sticky for tech support.
Great post!
This is the sort of stuff WT should be made of!

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post #26 of 87 Old 12-27-2008, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
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This post needs to be a permantent sticky for tech support.
Great post!
This is the sort of stuff WT should be made of!
Consider it done!

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post #27 of 87 Old 12-27-2008, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Mr. Mike,

I'll wait till Monday before mailing the shims just in case other members need to borrow them. In that case, I'll mail it to them.

BTW Here's a list of the shim sizes; I wrote numbers 1 through 4 on them. There's four #1 = 192.5, three #2 = 197.5, two #3 = 200, and one #4 = 202.5; there's not enough room on shims for four digits so halfs are rounded off (192 is actually 192.5 and 198 is 197.5).

And thanks to everyone for the props; it was my pleasure doing the How-To.

Mike

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post #28 of 87 Old 01-13-2009, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Mister Mike,

I still have the shims.

Any SoCalites planning on a valve clearance check?

Last chance before I mail them back to CT...

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post #29 of 87 Old 01-18-2009, 10:12 AM
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Excellent post on the valve adjustment. Thanks for your time in taking the fotos, and step by step instructions..

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post #30 of 87 Old 01-22-2009, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koogmoo View Post
Excellent post on the valve adjustment. Thanks for your time in taking the fotos, and step by step instructions..



MisterMike, shims are heading your way.

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post #31 of 87 Old 04-15-2009, 10:33 PM
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Most Honorable First Born Son and I are now in the reassembly phase and all clearances checked well at approximately 22k.



Hell, that picture alone is worth the whole exercise!

FWIW, the valve cover gasket is supposed to be reusable. My 2003 gasket looked really good. I replaced it anyway, but that may have more to do with me being a freak than any real mechanical necessity.

I also took a suggestion from CMurphy and put a little HondaBond around the half moons on the gasket and extended it out about quarter inch.

Sokali:
I work in a technical industry and that is some of the most flawless instructional work I have seen. I keep my laptop out in the garage next to the manual and everything has gone as you have described.

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post #32 of 87 Old 04-15-2009, 10:35 PM
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great pic nesty. Glad it went well for you

'04 919---40k----6/18/10 SOLD

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post #33 of 87 Old 04-15-2009, 10:39 PM
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good job jon... you can do mine when it is time... 9000 more miles...
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post #34 of 87 Old 04-16-2009, 04:32 AM
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Very cool Jon...glad it went well and great pic of your son!

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post #35 of 87 Old 04-16-2009, 09:30 AM
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A MOST excellent write-up.

I may have to save the whole series to my local 'puter, just in case.

Thanks!

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post #36 of 87 Old 04-19-2009, 04:47 PM
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Another 2 satisfied customers

Basspiece and I completed our valve clearance checks today. Mikes (Sokali & Mistermike), thanks again for this awesome writeup and for the use of the shims.

My 2007 and Basspiece's 2002 were both in spec and no shimming required. Neither of us had ever done valve clearance checks before and we did both bikes in about 3- 3 1/2 hours. Having an extra set of hands made it much easier to get done.

A few tools laid out



My bike with tank raised, coolant drained and ready to go. Didn't remove the tank, just both coils, the two sections of coolant hose on the right side, along with the radiator cap.



Blood and guts...



Both bikes done and ready to go for a ride.



Overall a great day, got to meet another fine Wristwister, and very satisfying to be able to work on my own bike. Enjoyed meeting you Luke.

Shims are on the way to Zookmor tomorrow.

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post #37 of 87 Old 04-19-2009, 06:18 PM
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Thanks for the help Mike, it was a great ride (218 is a good road!) and your a fantastic rider! I loved that 3 car pass with the limo! You have done an amazing job with your bike! I especially love that scorpion can. Anytime you want to ride lemme know.

The Valve check was pretty easy and straight forward, we got it done real quick. Thanks so much Sokali and Mistermike for the write-up! We saved a combined $1000 over having them done at the dealerships. SWEET!

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post #38 of 87 Old 04-19-2009, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Basspiece919 View Post
Thanks for the help Mike, it was a great ride (218 is a good road!) and your a fantastic rider! I loved that 3 car pass with the limo! You have done an amazing job with your bike! I especially love that scorpion can. Anytime you want to ride lemme know.

The Valve check was pretty easy and straight forward, we got it done real quick. Thanks so much Sokali and Mistermike for the write-up! We saved a combined $1000 over having them done at the dealerships. SWEET!
You're welcome and 218 is a great road until you get behind 3 cars led by a stretch limo. I think they enjoyed your wheelie as you were passing We will have to ride again this summer.

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post #39 of 87 Old 04-19-2009, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
You're welcome and 218 is a great road until you get behind 3 cars led by a stretch limo. I think they enjoyed your wheelie as you were passing We will have to ride again this summer.
Haha Those people payed alot for their Limo! They deserve to be entertained!

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post #40 of 87 Old 04-19-2009, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marylandmike View Post
I think they enjoyed your wheelie as you were passing
Speaking of wheelies...
The first part of this thread talks about the rev limiter, the second part is one of the funnier on-line arguments I have seen.

http://www.wristtwisters.com/forum/s...=rev+limit+919

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