After thinking about it for a day, I decided I could do better than my first attempt. And, since g00gl3it asked for more information last time, I did a better job of documenting the work.
Step 1: Prepare the OEM windscreen. This means adding supports as necessary to keep the layups from drooping off of the edges. The "mold" is just the inside of the OEM windscreen, surrounded by cardboard and tape. Everything facing up is waxed several times with parting wax (the wax is not yet rubbed down in the picture).
Step 2: Cut the plies from the carbon fabric. Three plies this time - four was one too many.
Step 3: Prepare the epoxy resin. In this case, I am using Proset epoxy, warmed to 80 degrees F, and mixed 3 parts resin to one part catalyst.
Step 4: Wet the mold surface with epoxy.
Step 5: Add the first ply.
Step 6: Brush on the resin. There is a technique to this, involving more stippling than brushing. One has to be careful not to add too much resin, or it will pool up, but as long as you don't go wild, it will be fine.
Step 7: Using a Bondo spreader, squeegee the excess resin off of the layup. This also consolidates the plies when there are more than one.
Step 8: Build up all of the plies, and then set the layup under a heat lamp to cure. Pointing a space heater at the layup doesn't hurt, either. Heating should be gentle at first, and then can be more aggressive after the part is about 2/3 cured.
Step 9: Pull the composite from the mold. Also shown are the tools used for trimming and sanding the edges. I also used a 12 inch disk table-top disk sander that's not shown.
Step 10: Trim roughly to shape.
Step 11: Perform the finish work, pose the windscreen for a few shots, and put it on the bike!
Yep, looks better this time. Oh, and the final mass is 110 grams, verses 295 grams for the OEM windscreen.
Yep, buffed out the scratches, re-powder coated, and installed. While the exhaust system was apart, I also straightened out the mess that the previous owner left as a slip-on installation.
You won't be able to do the tail in the same manner in one piece as it will not 'pull off' the original due to the shape. Honda must use a fancy split mould.
You won't be able to do the tail in the same manner in one piece as it will not 'pull off' the original due to the shape. Honda must use a fancy split mould.
Yes that's right, and also I wouldn't be able to just lay up plies on the actual part. I'd have to make a split mold from the original, and then lay up inside the mold. MUCH more time-consuming.
While I've been able to shop around and find carbon fiber front fenders, side covers, and chain guards, I have yet to find a CF rear fairing. I haven't bought any of the others, but since I got a half-decent one off ebay that could be used as a model or mold, it occurred to me that this might be a good idea.
Given how people seem interested in paying for CF bits around here, it seems to me that someone making these might stand to get some pretty good money.
What would a decent CF tail fairing go for? Heck, the e-bay link prices kinda shocked me. $125 for a fairing with a corner ground off?
Well, a CF front fender goes for $130, rear hugger about the same, IIRC side covers are about the same for a pair. And yeah, the eBay prices are a bit nuts for those pieces, but they do show up at more reasonable prices - the one I just got was only $29.
I figure you could get $200-300 for a rear fairing in CF on a regular basis, possibly (no, probably) more. Of course, I get a discount for coming up with the idea and providing the exemplar, right?
I would say $300.00. Biggest issue I see in laying up a tail cowl/fairing is the way it curves around back in over itself on the sides. You couldn't just layup inside or outside the cowl, either the mold or layup would be trapped. You would have to make a true 2 part breakaway mold.
Not saying it can't be done it will just be tricky to get the mold setup. But the end results would be amazing.
__________________
'02 CB919
"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away"
Tom Waits
for the fit to be right, you'd have to make a mold either way. if you lay-up the inside it would be small, outside would be big.imho the easiest would be to lay up the outside then with a bandsaw cut it in half. next graft on tabs to bolt it back together and layup the actual part on the inside.
all said and done the original tail is toast.
__________________
'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
for the fit to be right, you'd have to make a mold either way. if you lay-up the inside it would be small, outside would be big.imho the easiest would be to lay up the outside then with a bandsaw cut it in half. next graft on tabs to bolt it back together and layup the actual part on the inside.
all said and done the original tail is toast.
a tweak on this idea is to lay up the "splash" (the layers of fiberglass over the original part that will become the mold) in two parts, so that the flange halves are built as an integral part of the mold. The original tail would survive. This also allows the use of dry micro (a dryish mixture of epoxy and microballoons) to be applied near to the flanges, resulting in a crisp transition between the two halves, and consequently less clean-up of the final part.
All of this will be easier with a tail that already has a smooth finish, so whichever one I wind up with to use as a master, i will prefer one that is smooth.
sounds good, but i don't see how your gonna do 2 halves and get an even smooth line for the halves. if you can do it that way "you da man"! btw i'm intrested in one if your gonna do this
__________________
'04 Honda 919, Candy apple red met., 17/44t sprockets,f-16 windscreen,delkevic ss exhaust,Tharbars,givi engine bars, billet alum. led turns w/ running lights,red adj.levers from china, bar end mirrors,grip heaters,adj. foot peg brackets,adj. bar risers,dunlop Q2(that are better than your pp 2ct,lol)bike wired for gps and phone charger
sounds good, but i don't see how your gonna do 2 halves and get an even smooth line for the halves. if you can do it that way "you da man"! btw i'm intrested in one if your gonna do this
When I get that far, I'll explain the process with pictures. Luckily for me, I have worked with a couple of excellent composite technicians who showed me the ropes.
Linear Mode
Chevy Camaro Forum
Ford Mustang Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum
Volkswagen Touareg Forum
Land Rover Defender Forum
