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Old 10-11-2011, 05:20 PM   #1
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.... balancing your bike??

..... Is there a scale, for balancing a bike for the track??
55% front and 45% rear??????
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:23 PM   #2
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that all goes out the window when you put a rider on the bike... move forward and back and balance can be hugely different.

and its not like you can add / remove weight easily on bikes to change their static balance anyways.

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Old 10-11-2011, 05:28 PM   #3
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..... ya, I did'nt think of that,....... moving around
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #4
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What's with the twig and berry basher on the seat behind the tank?
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Old 10-11-2011, 07:15 PM   #5
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What's with the twig and berry basher on the seat behind the tank?
That does look rather strange...
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:09 PM   #6
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..... well it is a 86 Fj1200 with a 01 R6 tail.
so happens, I am on my way to getting it reupholster and it will not have the berry basher.
I just made it that way, because the tank was the berry basher. LOL
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:41 PM   #7
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And lets not forget physics here. Romping on the throttle lightens up the front, going downhill makes everything lighter, etc.. etc... Go ride and enjoy it
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:04 PM   #8
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.... this is the reason why I ask, about the balance.... when I first got the bike, it took very little effort to drag the foot pegs. but now, by changing the forks to [FZ1]. and the stock 16inch wheels to 17inch wheels [FZ1] and a shorter swingarm [YZF1000], I feel like I am having to push down on the handlebars in the turns, to make tighter turns.
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:51 PM   #9
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.... this is the reason why I ask, about the balance.... when I first got the bike, it took very little effort to drag the foot pegs. but now, by changing the forks to [FZ1]. and the stock 16inch wheels to 17inch wheels [FZ1] and a shorter swingarm [YZF1000], I feel like I am having to push down on the handlebars in the turns, to make tighter turns.
were the forks longer from the FZ1 compared to the stock forks... this would cause the trail and rake to be more causing it to be harder to turn.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:19 PM   #10
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.....Hey nd4spdh, I have been working a lot on the wiring harness.
Trying to get the bike ready for bike week, [this week] in Daytona...... did not make it!!
the FZ1 and stock forks, are the same length.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:02 AM   #11
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The rake/trail was changed by the larger front wheel & tire, and also possibly the new forks...Try moving the legs up in the triples to get the "feel" you want. Do it in small increments (like 2-5mm), it can change things rapidly!
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:40 AM   #12
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..... Shadow,.... that's what I was thinking, and maybe work with the swingarm linkage.
but, for sure take notes.
there are .01 T/D springs in the forks and a Penske rear shock.
that is something else, that may help.
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:52 AM   #13
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..... Shadow,.... that's what I was thinking, and maybe work with the swingarm linkage.
but, for sure take notes.
there are .01 T/D springs in the forks and a Penske rear shock.
that is something else, that may help.
I think you meant 1.0 as in 1.0 kg/mm but more importantly, did you also change the triple clamps ?
If you did, there could be a huge trail difference between stock and what is now on, in terms of the distance between the stem centreline and fork tube centrelines.
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Old 10-16-2011, 11:10 AM   #14
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ya what was involved in the fork swap? was it like the 919 F4i fork swap, where the forks are identicle (minus compression settings) and are direct bolt on to stock tripples.... or do the forks require different tripples.?
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:55 PM   #15
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.... my mistake.....Traxxion Dynamics fork spring kit,omn 1.0

when I changed the forks, I used the bottom clamp [FZ1] and the FJ top. But, I had to use the FJ bearings on the bottom clamp. and had to hone out the FJ top.

so, like Shadow said, I should move the forks up or down in the triples to see the difference.

One thing that I did was, make to many changes at one time. .... the forks, wheels, rear shock, lowered the handle bars and swingarm. ..... not knowing where to set all measurements.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:32 PM   #16
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.... my mistake.....Traxxion Dynamics fork spring kit,omn 1.0

when I changed the forks, I used the bottom clamp [FZ1] and the FJ top. But, I had to use the FJ bearings on the bottom clamp. and had to hone out the FJ top.

so, like Shadow said, I should move the forks up or down in the triples to see the difference.

One thing that I did was, make to many changes at one time. .... the forks, wheels, rear shock, lowered the handle bars and swingarm. ..... not knowing where to set all measurements.
So, the trail has not affected by your revised triple clamps arrangement. at least in terms of the offset distance between the stem to tube pair centreline.

I need to read more of your setup, then come back to you again.

I'm not clear on the rest of the bike, but let's f
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:49 PM   #17
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OK, now I have a better handle on things.
86 FJ1200
1
Changed wheels from 16 -17
Comments : what were the stock tires sizes spec'd for the 86?
And what size of 17s are you know running ?
The bike will have been lifted up from this change, but the relationship between front and rear tire ODs could be much different, so while the bike is higher, it might be more high at one end.
Get back to me with some answers and I'll figure out height differentials for you.
2
Put on a swingarm from a YZF1000, and it is said to be shorter.
Comments:
The shorter swing arm will move the centre of gravity closer to the rear axle centreline and change the fore to aft weight distribution of the bike. The front axle will see less weight.
There is always some swingarm angle, so shortening the swingarm also reduces the rear chassis ride height, and it is a double whammy because of the increased rearward bias and the shorter slope distance from the pivot pin to the axle centreline.
Is this a classic twin shock setup ?
If so, your shock mounting points could be having a huge effect.
The shocks on the YZF may have been laid down more and likely were, thus changing the shock angle and possible mismatch of shock eye to eye length, not knowing what shocks you are using let alone what spring rate in comparison to stock.
The shock mounts centrelines on the swing arm could also be a different distance away from the line described by the pivot pin and axle centrelines, in other words more potential rear ride height deviation potential.
3
You put on FZ1 forks
Comments:
What is the free length of the FZ vs FJ forks ?
I'll bet they are not the same, so there is likely some front ride height deviation from that.

Above is a quick rip for you to think about and decide what to do next.
We are all here to help.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:00 PM   #18
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mcromo pretty much covered all the bases.

also if your using bars that are of less width than original, it will be harder to turn as you have less leverage.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:28 PM   #19
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..... Thanks for the info....and questions.
It looks like I need to get my notes and tape measure out. ..will let you know.
thanks
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Old 10-17-2011, 12:43 PM   #20
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..... Thanks for the info....and questions.
It looks like I need to get my notes and tape measure out. ..will let you know.
thanks
I would not be surprised if you end up being rather shocked at the net change of everything you have done.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:54 PM   #21
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...... yes, I can believe that, about being shocked.

the stock 86FJ wheels are, front 120/80zr16 the rear 150/80zr16. the FZ1 wheel's front 120/70zr17 and the rear 180/55zr17 [Avon's]..... note- by changing from 16 to 17inch wheels, there is a greater choice of tire brands to buy from.

the YZF swingarm is one inch shorter then the stock FJ. and the shock is in it's stock position. but now, it has adjustable linkage.....soupyperformance.com.[I will try to show a pic].

about the forks, they are both the same length.
I know I can start off with small adjustments, moving them up and down in the triples to see the differance.
the Penski shock was built for me, my weight and riding style and It is very adjustable.
just watched a David Moss on utube on setting bike's up, for the track. but, they were stock R6's and GSXR's.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:57 PM   #22
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.... one more pic
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:58 PM   #23
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i bet with the slightly stiffer fronts, paired with a proper (and probably softer) rear, that the bike has been shifted to the front rides higher.... thus making steering heavier (by increasing rake)

drop the forks in the tripples a bit.

also note tire size.... the change in the front is nothing... overall diameter is ~ 2 mm less.... BUT the rear is almost a good 20mm less in diameter ( 150/80-16 = 647mm... 180/55-17 = 629mm) pair that less diameter, with the shorter swing arm (which also drops the rear of the bike due to the slight incline of the swing arm itself) paired with a stiffer front end, and like stated probably a softer rear, its VERY likely that rake has been greatly effected! simple solution, drop the forks a lil bit at at time
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:00 PM   #24
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.... Ok, I will that!!
Thanks
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:37 PM   #25
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.... Ok, I will that!!
Thanks
i would do max of 10mm at a time, also if you can find another stock fj and get a big protractor out to measure the angle of the ground in relation to the forks.
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:41 AM   #26
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.... Ok, I will that!!
Thanks

That's a neat build you did, I like it !
4spd has the tires covered in the sense that you have about 9 mm of stagger from the rear sizing alone.
Raising your tubes about 9/0.9 = 10 mm will correct for that, but you'll be losing ground clearance.
I'd be inclined to try and keep the front head stock at OEM height, and adjust the rear shock length to get the rear chassis height back to where it is supposed to be.
Before going nuts on things though, what kind of front sag numbers are you getting ? For Free and Rider that is ?
How much internal preload did you dial into the front end by the spacer length used ? 15 mm ? 20 ??
What rear spring rate are you using ? Somewhere in the high 500s or low 600s in terms of #/inch ?
What kind of Free and Rider Sag numbers are you getting for the rear ?
Have you checked to see how much rear shock stroke you are using as you ride ? If not, I'd be doing that. Just put a small zip tie on the shock shaft, and when you are doing that, be careful with the tools so as not to mark the shaft.
Speaking of sag numbers, re both front and back, what kind of range are you seeing that you are averaging from ?
How consistent are the measurements you are getting ? Do they tend to be nicely grouped or are you seeing lots of scatter ? (thus indicating a stiction and/or method problem)
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:29 PM   #27
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.... first, thanks nd4spdbh and mcromo44 for your help.

before, I start with the adjustments, I need to break-in the motor.
I have been working on the wiring harness also,[ I thought I was done].

I went to Quacker Steak and Lube, last night. it's about a hour drive, [still breaking-in the motor] everything was fine, until I started on my way back home. pulled out of the parking lot and then I saw the blue lights flashing, pulled over, and the FHP came over and told me, no tail lights. so, I started the motor back up and they were on. [strange].
We talked a little, and then..... I was on my way......and about a mile down the road, he pulled me over again. samething, started the motor up and they were on. but now, I put it in gear, no lights.

So, he followed me to the next gas station and I ended up buying a flash light and putting it under the back seat strap.
I started working on it, around 6pm today, it ended up being a ground wire.

mcromo44, at this point, I do not know what the sag or other measurements are.
I should know by the weekend. .... trying to get all other issues, out of the way.

Thanks again!!
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:56 PM   #28
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ya mcromo has a good train of thought, get sag numbers setup right, then if you find that steering is still a lil hard THEN drop the forks.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:27 PM   #29
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..... I have made several changes to the front suspension,.... and it is getting better.

but, still having problems with the flat slides. went out with the guys Sat. night.

and not good, when in the twisties, and the throttle stick's open.

called Mikuni today and they think it could be a air leak or too small pilot jets.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:56 AM   #30
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No offense, but with all of the changes you've done to your bike (even if it were my bike) I would be afraid to ride it. At least ride it hard anyway.


I was in easy riding mode after I made a bunch of changes to my bike (new wheels, tires, calipers, spacers, pads, had just re-assembled the entire front end, swapped out gauges and had put Speedo sensor on front caliper, etc.).

There were just too many changes involved and I was a bit nervous about pushing her hard. It's a good thing I didn't, too, as that caliper bolt on the speedo sensor ended up stripping out due to being too short.

I respect your ingenuity, but throwing a leg over that thing would have my buttcheeks doing some extra exercising *pinch*!
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Old 11-03-2011, 05:16 PM   #31
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..... At first, I may have been cautious.... but, I have been riding it enough, to be able to run it hard.....to a limit....and that's why I was asking for help with the suspension.

It's taking a little time. but, it's coming around!!



..

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